1972 450CR

Looking around at material and not being an engineering whiz I would say Delrin would do the trick.
I know some machinist are using nylon 6/6 because of heat and moly impregnated but I think Delrin will do the trick.

What do you guys think?

Delrin makes sense to me, seems like it would be fairly easy to shape as well.

Steve,

I have contacted my friend in Thailand to see if he can make the wear block.

I will see if he can make one out of rubber and one out of Delrin. I figure the restoration guys would want the rubber and the riders would opt for the delrin.

I have never held a NOS wear block so I have no idea of the consistency or hardness of the rubber. Can you guys give me an idea?

Is there a market for the wear block, in other words if I pay for the setup fee and materials can I expect a big enough demand to break even?

I haven't seen any wear blocks for sale on ebay, HVA has them and I would think Vintage Husky but I haven't contacted John to see if he has them. It just seems like a relative easy project once the materials are had.

Discussed making the chain guide rub block with my friend in Thailand, he would need an order of 500 pieces.
I don't think I could pay for that and sell enough to recoup the cost.

I did buy a couple from Vintage Husky. John had them in Stock and the front mud flap to.

I sent the rear wheel back to Woodys to relace. I had them do the super lace and it turns out that three of the sprocket bolt holes have a spoke to close to get the nut to set flush.

So, still moving forward.

Hadn't checked with Vintage Husky, I'll order a rub block from him too.

Haven't accomplished a thing on the 450. Winter rolled in and working in an unheated garage isn't much fun.

I haven't heard back from Woody's so I suspect they are having to order a new rim and drill it for the original spoke lacing arrangement.

I have noticed some fine bikes available for low dollars on ebay and craigslist. I missed out on one in the Phoenix area for $500. It was on ebay and looked like something that could be fixed for a daily rider.

Since I couldn't wrench on the husky I managed to balance the carbs on a Marysville assembled 80 CBX. A cold garage and a fan blowing over the cylinders helps keeps the CBX from overheating while I balance the carbs. This 80 was a bear to balance but I finally smoothed it out and eliminated the clutch rattle. My next project is to rebuild a CBX engine from a 1980 Japan built bike, The 1980 Japan CBX's are pretty rare now. Honda moved the CBX assembly to Marysville Ohio so only about 1,800 CBX's were assembled in Japan that year. The 1979 is still the one most collectors want and Honda seems to have made a lot of those, me, I prefer to own the 1980 Japan made CBX. It's detuned compared to the 79 CBX but there were so few made that it should be the more collectable one.

Work has been a bitch lately. Getting a new helicopter in service and the logistics are taxing to say the least.
Anyway I have a day off so I decided to time the ignition on the 450 engine. Did a search on the site and came up with everything I needed to know.

I love working on old bikes that others have butchered...not! I set the piston to TDC and inserted the pin through the flywheel but it would not align into the stator hole. It appears this system is from another bike.

After sitting and examining the system I figured a work around.

When the whole stator plate was turned clock wise and secured and the flywheel set to the correct position for timing (22 degrees) the pin holes aligned.

Should I want to fine tune the ignition I will have to file the slots in the stator plate to allow for more clockwise rotation. At the moment it is in spec. but I may want to retard the timing a wee bit.

Heres a photo of what came stock on the 72 450CR, the small Motoplat.

Thanks Crash! I am not sure but I think the PO switched out the ignition system.
Here is what's on the old girl.

Looks like the correct one to me.

Not sure, the circumference of the stator is 139mm. Isn't it suppose to be around 116mm?

Thinking of getting the exhaust pipe Ceramic coated, anyone done this?


Finally have a tapered sprocket now I need a 520 chain. I have searched for the correct length but have found nothing. I will be running 12T counter and 53T rear. Will 108 link work or will I need more?

Whats the purpose behind a Ceramic coated pipe? Heat dissipation? More HP?

102 links will be long enough with your sprocket sizes and a stock swing arm.

i have a pipe that is coated, if that counts..
i guess the benefits are looks, corrosion resistance, more power due to holding heat in...mine has held up well.

Thanks!


I was thinking a ceramic coated pipe would dissipate the heat and would resist rusting. I also wonder if the inside could be ceramic coated.

The really big reason is I am lazy and don't want to repaint the pipe every season.

IS there a source for the tools that are in the tool kit?

I have managed to pick up a sprocket puller and flywheel puller but still need the tools for holding the sprocket/flywheel for tightening the left hand thread nuts.

mine at least does a great job of not rusting, and its on the bike i ride all winter with studded tires. i scrub it with penetrating oil here and there to clean it..i know dynoport offers a service to coat pipes, i have one of their pipes they sold pre-coated.

Here is a Chain Length Calculator that may be useful:

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/chainlength.html

Thank you Vinskord.

I went with 104 links. With the 12t/53t sprockets I cut out one link.

Still not sold on my ignition system. I have a nice spark and I set the timing. The method using the pin through the flywheel at TDC would not work. I could not get enough rotation of the coil plate to engage the pin.

So I rotated the flywheel ccw until the pin dropped in then continued ccw rotation until the BTDC mark lined up....18 degrees for this 450.

Maybe tomorrow I'll mix some fuel and see if it fires.

Spent half the day trying to get the old girl to fire without success. I have spark, compression and fuel so it come down to timing.

I don't have a lot of information but I was able to gather some from the old husky news articles that add more questions than answers.

Looking at the stator adaptor plate mine is not correct:

Here is what is supposed to be in the bike?

Here is what is there:


With this set up I cannot get the timing pin to align in the hole through the rotor into the stator at top dead center.

Anyone have ideas?

Has the ignition side crank stub been replaced at any time ?