1972 450CR

Ouch! I wouldn't run these the way they are. I don't have any experience with this but I say to definitely turn em, sleeve em, or replace em. Sorry I can't point you in to quick, cheap repair method. Parts are getting harder to find for these pre 75 bikes.

I haven't been able to source any stub ends in any better shape so I ordered and received the Speedi-Sleeves today.

I can put the sleeve on the left stub. The right stub I can't sleeve until I get the cases pressed together. I have no reason to believe the sleeves will not work.

The 450 has been exceptionally hard to find certain engine parts for. Luckily the general frame, forks, wheel components were used on a lot of models.

I restored and raced a 1972 450 when i first got into VMX.. you can change out the ignition stub for a "small taper" and run a mini 6 motoplat.. I actually used an internal rotor.. I reasoned that the engine had enough flywheel weight with the crank and clutch.. so a small ignition might get the old girl to rev a bit more. I used the factory porting specs ..along with the exhaust mods and a 38mm Mikuni.. managed to win a couple of Australian Titles with the 450..

That is a good plan and I'll go that route if I can't get the Speedi-Sleeves to work. I will use the conservative porting approach.

Make sure if u use a speedi sleeve. You seal under it for no air leaks.

Yes!

I was going to use blue locktight.

What do you suggest?

Anything heat resistant.

I think I used JB marine weld and just little on the end as I pressed it on.

I coated mine on trailing end bout 1/4 way inside of sleeve. As you press it on then wipe access off.

I was always worried about putting it on leading end and something happening that it would come loose and go in engine or make sleep harder to press on.

Used one on 125 and it worked.

Loctite 640 high temp sleeve retainer. Never used this just ran across it.

http://www.amazon.com/LOCTITE-37424-Strength-Sleeve-Retainer/dp/B0002KKTIG

the sleeve retainer is good stuff. its purpose is basically for these kinds of applications. blue loctite would be very weak for this im guessing, as the sleeve retainer is quite strong

Yeah, that probably good stuff to use. I used it on my Gto rear axle bearings when I pressed them on.

Most Excellent!

I forgot about the bearing retainer I used to use in heavy equipment repair. That stuff is pretty good.

Wurth or Loctite bearing / race fixing agent.

I'll look at what the bearing supply shop has available here Burque. Got paid so I can order the bearings and seals from vintage husky.

Managed to find a few of the tranny thrust washers but I suspect I'll have to buy the rest elsewhere and grind them to the right OD. Should be okay as long as I don't overheat the washer ; then I can polish the edges smooth.

My honey bought me a tool for pulling the flywheel into the cases, that's way cool. I think she felt sorry watching me fabricate tools in the past.

Try McMaster Carr , they have tons of metric shims.

Great Job, keep up the posts. As I read thru them, I see a lot of the same issues I encountered, ie: rear brake backing plate, 'wheels' ...I ordered new ones from the UK (Akront - Morant) had to get them drilled by Buchanons, Woodys did the Stainless steel lacing.

Here is a source for parts,

http://www.husqvarnavintage.com/Wheels/cat792577_716312.aspx

How much did Woodys charge to lace your wheel? How much to true the wheel?

Woody's has a price list on their website. If you call ask for Rachelle. She is very helpful.

All I sent was the front wheel hub. I went with stainless steel bigger gauge spokes, a MORAD rim and the superlace pattern.

The wheel is solid and looks great.

It was $500 and change.

No progress last couple of weeks, work gets in the way!

I did get the forks off to Race Tech, I am letting Sydney's guys rebuild them.

I recieved my forks from Race Tech today. So I has something to do! I put the triple tree on the frame.
Read somewhere to replace the bearing cage with 23 ball bearings. Is this correct?

I bought stainless steel bearings and I believe they will do the trick.

Still messing with the fuel tank but not much success with doing removal there.

Engine still on my bench in pieces but I'll get it together eventually..

I'm not sure of the exact number of ball bearings it takes to replace the cage I just fill up the race until theres no more room left.

What are you removing from the tank, rust, old paint, dents?

I read 23 individual balls, I could fit 24. I chose to stay with 23 and assembled the triple trees. the front end seems to feel better with this.

The tank has dents in it. Some are in areas that I can repair and paint some are in the knee area that I would like to get out but haven't found a way to massage them out. The steel is pretty stout so heating and freezing the area hasn't worked and the glue stick method can't take the amount of force needed to pull the dent out.

I took the tank to a paintless dent removal shop and they couldn't get the dents out either.

If a good dent free tank becomes available maybe I'll pick it up.