1972 WR250 the beginning

Out with the old and in with the new : )

A couple of goodies from John and a used Motoplat that hopefully works (?). Progress marches on at a snails pace : )

I love the thick paper gaskets, only had problems with the thin Cometic Gaskets they break so easy.

But the paper ones shrink so they may need a spray of water to let them relax to fit.

I've always had good luck with Johns gasket sets. One suggestion, many of the early 70's bikes I've had leaked at the clutch cover. To resolve it I started coating the clutch cover gasket with a thin gasket sealant and letting it dry overnight. I used 3bond because its thin enough to spread a thin coat, and letting it dry overnight is so it won't stick to the cases if disassembly becomes necessary later on. The leak I was tending to was always at the bottom and slowly seeped over time. Some of the time I only coated the bottom half of the gasket.

Another important area to get sealed is at the intake manifold. Intake leaks screw with the idle and a crisp response off of the idle position. This also goes for the fit between the Bing carb and intake. The years of engine vibration will loosen the fit between these two. Theres nothing I know of that can effectively create a long term seal in this area without making a mess out of it. With one project, I had to search for an intake manifold replacement due to to much play between it and the Bing.

All Great Points Crash. As for gasket sealing, I take all the sealing surfaces very seriously like You. I take the cases and lay them on a surface plate I got too cheap and use some 280? grit belts I get from a customer for free as they are too worn for their process, and work the case halves until FLAT. Gotta be on a surface plate or similar or you might FUBAR the surfaces! Then repeat for all the covers and their surfaces.
As for the intake surface I do the same but less on a home built Pipe with a piece of SS machined flat stock welded to it to put the abrasive belt on. But the real culprit usually is the manifold surface, so I dress it as well on the surface plate.
And for the seal between the Bing and Intake I install a Oring a little bigger than the intake diameter. I'll get you a size when I get to the shop. It's not elegant or perfect but helps seal that surface between the two parts. I push the carb as hard as I can onto the intake and tighten it down. I haven't sucked one in yet but also don't ride roughshod on these bikes either. I can Send you a 24" section of the sanding belt if you want. Great Luck Chris

What are folks using to replace the ignition wire cover / sheath ? Carefully removed my old cracked one. Shrink tubes or ????

Here is a source for the gray sheath similar to an OEM Husky. They have various diameters - 6mm, 8mm and others.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293416760003?itmmeta=01JDPX5WZPNEG3HJN836BR650V

Since it houses only two wires, 6mm is the closest to mine - but mine have been so abused over the years that its just a guess.

Yeah, shrink tube wouldn't turnout looking good after the exhaust heated up, not to mention the sun getting to it. I've used a lot of gray sheathing years ago for my restos but the source, Cycle Terminal, doesn't seem to have it pictured on their website any longer. If you're buying anymore than a couple of feet you may want to shop the price. I see the stuff online priced anywhere from $1.50 to $2.50 per foot, just search gray motorcycle wire sleeve or sheath. Keep in mind the Ebay listing includes shipping making in the price for one foot reasonable, for more than a foot maybe not so much.

Heck yeah, belts and emery cloth are the best. Wish I had access to a surface plate, nice.

Amen to that brother.

I think the o-ring will stay put. I've tried that with a worn intake spigot and was a little leery when I rocked the carb back and forth even after tightening the carb. Once installed, the air cleaner may have held it tight enough but I still didn't feel comfortable with it. It was to close to Disneyland, I try and avoid mickey mouse around my stuff.

I've tried that with a worn intake spigot and was a little leery when I rocked the carb back and forth even after tightening the carb.
Thats close to a Mikuni upgrade!

Some progress:
1. got the forks cleaned up & resealed
2. inspected clutch and repainted cover
3. got the tank cleaned inside & out. Recommendations on a tank painter?

Thanks Vinskord for the grey sheath recommendation! Installed and looks great, but had to cut the connectors off to fit : ( Any sources for the motoplat spade connectors to the coil?

Sorry, I couldn't get my fork & clutch cover pics to fit...

Paint it yourself, It will make you happy!
Let me dig up my 500xc thread to find that connector.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/1983-xc500.87850/page-11

Unless you forget to add the the hardener.

Heres that connector link Chris.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/1983-xc500.87850/page-11#post-652765

Hahhah yeah
do not forget the hardener!!!

If it doesn't come in a can, I'm not qualified to paint it : ) Crash & Chris, just pm me your address and I'll send the tank over so you can have "fun". j/k

Those links I posted are about 5 years old. Here are updated links (good as of Dec. 6, 2024):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256339372683

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253909680777

Couple of things to keep in mind:

1) This terminal originally had two wires crimped in it - one from the Motoplat and the other to the 'kill switch'. So the spec needs to be larger than for 18ga wire.

2) Be sure not to get one with the locking tab on it. This is for placement in a connector - similar to an auto headlight connector.

There are multiple sources for the terminal - ebay, Amazon, AliExpress, Newark, etc. Just search for 9.5 spade terminal.

RE: connectors. I'd like to suggest two things, a cover for the male spade to protect against an accidental short and a crimping tool that not only locks the bare wire to the terminal but also locks the insulated portion of the wire to the second terminal clamp. I've used these items to install terminals on my past projects and highly recommend them.

I used these bullet connectors on my RT project. Don't have a pic of a new female spade to show.

I use the place called Vintage Connections.
But I think the original guy sold, but the new guy is still getting them and selling.
I bought a crimper too.
https://www.vintageconnections.com/
Looks like there's a little solder there Daryn!!
And thanks for the Update Vinskord!!!