1975 ML CR 360 GP

I am sure that Husqvarna used Volvo and Saab paint codes over the year. The silver on 2 of my Saabs seems to match Husqvarna Silver and the burgundy color on my wife's 2006 Volvo XC90 seems a possible match for the 1982 430CR color. There may have been a central supplier in Sweden that supplied all Swedish automotive production.

The Husky Club paint codes are not authentic but very close. I believe using paint codes from a Volvo or Saab would be closer. Just need to know the year and model at the automotive paint store.

For a frame I would use an epoxy for more durability if you plan to ride it. PPG Omni is an excellent choice.

...Is there a secrete to getting the sprocket cover on my bike? there is not enough room between the foot peg mount and the engine casing to put it in. I'm thinkin I need at least a 1/4 inch or more....Pretty sure i have the correct cover...the bolt holes line up.
Did Husky make different covers?

Update on the project.....strapped the bike th the lift and fired it up!! Fired on the third kick. Thank you Larry Stahl for timing the engine on his bench before shipping it back!! having an issue setting the idle, any suggestions. Going out to Northern Ca for a week....nice dry heat instead of 95 and humidy!

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o31SQW7b7-E

This is the sprocket cover that came on a 75 360 I once owned. I know theres a place for a fastener missing in the lower left hand corner but this motor was designed a couple years earlier and used in the 74 250 motocross (aka 74 250 Mag) which had the earlier MK frame. The footpeg was not an issue at that time.

As for the idle problem:

Was the air mix screw set properly?

Are the reeds okay?

Was the carburetor thoroughly cleaned i.e. dipped in carb cleaner over night and then rinsed and blown out with compressed air?

Was the intake manifold checked for air leaks but performing a leak down test?

Were the points checked to make sure they were not burned and set to the correct gap?

that cover would work and I may have to do that...the bottom left screw is the issue....
m, a little confused on the idle screw..the big one.... as far as the setting.... my idle jet is .45
carb took completely apart and cleaned and reassembled.
the air screw (smaller one) is all the way in and out a turn and a quarter.
new Boysen reeds, new gaskets no air leaks, new seals inside the engine
points and condenser are new and timing set properlyset properly as the bike fired on the third kick and starts no prob if I kick it like a man!!.
any easy way to explain the air screw? it controls the height of the slide?
thanks for the pic of the cover....thats gonna be the ticket.

Sorry I meant the air screw and not the idle screw. The way I understand the air screw setting is to lower the idle to the point that the bike will almost no longer idle. Then turn the air screw in and out 1/2 to a full turn to the point the motor idles at the highest RPM. Then use the idle screw to reduce the RPM to where it should be. The end result should leave the air screw somewhere around 1 to 1-3/4 turns.

Sounds like everything else is covered. The only other thing that comes to mind is if the carb is stock or if its something else that may have different jetting, like the pilot and needle jet.

Since you are in the process of rebuilding it was the tank spotless inside and did you install an inline fuel filter? It doesn't take much to plug the pilot jet and if it is plugged the bike will bog down a bit when you wick the throttle from a low RPM.

When you say it will not idle what is it doing exactly when you attempt to increase it with the idle screw?

yep tank spotless and new petcock/filter plus inline filter. pretty sure its an operator error on the adjustments. i try to eliminate the easy stuff and the bike starts too easy so i think its an adjustment. the bike has always been in FL so there is no altitude change cause there's no altitude!

it will did when i screw in the idle screw.. mabey im not screwing it in enough. will play with it next week when i get back in the state.

Figured out the idle issue....operator error, wasn't turning the big screw in far enough!! Idles fine now. Have the air screw out one turn, which I believe means a bit rich as more turns out is leaner?
Got my Pirelli tires mounted and repacked the spark arrestor..... Any secretes on how to quite this thing down a tad more without buying a different pipe/spark arrestor setup possibly?
gonna order a new chain, sprockets seem fine though I may go up a size on the rear as I'm not gonna be looking for top end speed.
need a kill switch!! guess I'll go with a Magura, seems pretty simple.
Handlebars.....any good sources or somewhere to send them to get re chromed..A place in Mobile wanted 250!!

Taken a few trips down the street in the neighborhood..... loud and quick when it hits the pipe.!!

Bike has a worn out looking hose in this hole. Is this a factory hole in the magneto case or an add-on?

That is a vent tube hole IIRC

ok, thanks, This was what it looked like when i got the bike.. Hadn't noticed it on any of the parts lists or other bikes....guess i need to put something in there!!

Is there a paint code for the mengenta looking color on a 1975 CR 360 tank? Wasnt that color only used a few years?

I guess the tank color is 430 Maroon?

on a side note, do we have the ability to edit a post after its posted?

75 CR 360....2 questions really
1) any suggestion on keeping the exhaust pipe crap in the exaust pipe at the exhaust manifold?
Tried the red high heat rtv, but I don't think I put it on thick enough. Anyone ever tried making a gasket?

2) airfilter cover decale did the 1975 come with the gold replica seal or the motorcross 360 decal. Have both.

Thanks

Billd
Pensacola FL