1977 360 Auto ressurection

I removed the top end yesterday, I can't help thinking that this is low hour bike, Mahle piston, the bore looks very usable, piston measures at 81.82, 81.92 is standard, not bad after 43 years! It was always my intention to split the cases to replace seals etc, but since the crusty rust on the barrel studs fell into the crankcases, it wasn't my decision anyway, the big end feels great, mains are smooth but I'll check them once I split the cases.
Have a look at that ring gap! I knew compression was down, but I didn't expect just over 4mm end gap.
I'll have a friend mic the barrel for taper etc and go from there.

I made up a tool to hold the clutch hub while undoing the 32mm nut, it turned out to be quite loose, 30nm at most, the first gear drum looks very good, the shoes will be dressed with a hacksaw blade as per the manual, but no bad news here.

Next up was the main hub and cluster, it lifted out easily, and the shoes will get a clean up and there is some wear in the main hub, but I'm told it's quite serviceable.
I'm still thinking that this is a low hour bike....
The engagement gear dogs and main shaft look quite good as well actually better in real life than the pics suggest, I don't think there is any reason why this transmission can't be used as is after cleaning up the grooves in the shoes, not often things go this well!

Can anyone tell me the stock shock absorber eye to eye measurement? I have searched but I get varying lenghts mentioned, I thought they were 14" but I'm not sure, the Koni shocks on the bike are 13.5".

Lookin good!

I believe my original shocks where 12.75". I replaced mine with 13.5" shocks, and they work fine.

That's interesting, as this one has 13.5 or 345mm shocks as well, were they Girling originally?

I'm also in need of a air filter cage if anyone has one they would sell?

Original shocks were Girling 12.9 inches center to center length.

Thanks guys, much appreciated! I have sourced a filter cage as well.

Have any of you guys discovered 3 fork seals per leg before? I removed three35x47x7mm seals per leg, was this an attempt to stop them leaking? Apart from the obvious stiction issue, it's actually kind of clever.

No! You know what saying goes? Everything bad comes in threes! It’s not my bike so that won’t be the case!

In that case I'll call it 6 per bike instead of 3 per leg!
Some cleaning and inspection today...

Bugger

Some parts to be blasted and powdercoated.

Can anyone tell me the paint code for the frame and the green tank?

Hopefully my "no spark" issue should be a thing of the past, stator tests well, coil not so good, cut the end off the lead at the cap and all good now, I just can't test on the bike it at the moment as my engine is spread all over my workbench.

If no one comes up with a paint code? Go look at some paint chips for old Porsche colors. I think you will find the green there.

Here is another one:

This is from 1976.

Almost looks like Porsche Speedway green?

I think I seen where there was some green left in your filler neck. Inside of tank? What about underneath in frame tunnel?

Tip, always match your paint chip up with color out in the sun.

If you do have paint under tank, see if someone could scan the color.

Here another tip:

For the chrome panel. Polish the chrome. Then make a stencil out of duct tape to cover the chrome panel area. Sandblast/glass bead the tank anywhere there is chrome left, just enough so primer and paint can bite into it and adhere. Sand from sandblaster won’t go through the duct tape, unless guy is using high pressure.
That’s why you see all these old husky tanks with paint flaking off of chrome. Worst thing you can do is paint over chrome unless you etch it.