1978 390 Auto build

Did you try the people that Michelle found? I would persevere with the search for the correct oil, I have never known the bottom end of an engine get so hot as an Auto!
http://www.wainbee.com/msds1/oils_imperialOil_UNIVIS_HVI_26.pdf

We are waiting for a report and some video!!

My aim has been to get the Auto finished in time for one of the local enduro practice days.
Still clean ....







My hopes for the new rear brake set up were high.







Our Andy Elliot (HVA Factory) on his fantastic 300WR

NICE HOW DID IT DO? SILL STARTING ON THE FIRST KICK

..... no ! Not when cold anyways. The main problem is getting used to that stupid kick start lever and where exactly to put my foot (toes !) when trying to do it. When I get it right, it's fine.

That is one fine Husky! I got shivers seeing it that clean in the mud, but I'm a neat freak. I know, they were built to ride & I would too.

And get it dirty I did ...
This was after the first lap. The video will follow later in the week.

Back tire looks really soft in the last picture.

Hi, where were you riding ?

dang so's the front say it aint t so on the first time out maybe he for got to buy new tubes

Tyres are at about 6 psi. I think the phrase was "the going is snotty". I always run between 10 and 6 psi. Touch wood, never had a puncture ! ....
The coming video will show it just doesn't get stuck. Apart from the impossible finish to a stupidly (read fun) hill climb.

glad to see all that work is paying off!

Well, here is the video as promised. Only as few small issues, and one big one.

After the first lap, finding it was stalling, a quick spanner check revealed the inlet bolts had slackened off. The suspension sits a little high when I am on the bike. But I used all of the travel, so I don't think going softer is the answer.

The major issue was the coating on the engine. I explained, and the powder coater understood, that it gets hot ! Not so ! the "steam" you can see coming from the front left side of the motor is the coating burning off. Even the cool side (ignition cover) has softened to allow the cable that rests on it to make an indentation !
I did have a small issue later on when I had to stop on a steep muddy climb to wait for a clear path. The tick over was wondering a bit, causing an issue with the engagement of the drive. Once I realised, I waited for it to die down and it was fine.
I will pull the gearbox this weekend just to check it over and make sure there is no damage to the drive dog on the end of the mainshaft.
The carb has not been touched from when it came out of the box. Mixture looks pretty good.

Hopefully the video works .....

I cried when you went down.

I didn't If you listen carefully, all I had to say was "first blood !"

Welcome to the world of will my rear tyre ever wear out?
Looked good, have you had a look inside the gearbox yet?

Yes Steve. I whipped it out this afternoon (!). All good. All I need to do now is take the seat, tank and exhaust off so I can re-torque the head and barrel

I am still crying over the powder coat on the engine. It has ruined what was a nice restoration. After speaking to Rod Spry, I will ride it until I need to strip it again. Even if the motor will look pants until then. Rod advised not to have it blasted again, but to have it chemically dipped and then re coated by grown-ups with the proper stuff. Hey-ho, you live and learn.
This time I will send it up to Rod and let him oversee it. I should have done that in the first place.

Just out of curiosity I have bought some caliper temperature strips to stick to the side of the casing. These read up to about 500 deg F, so I will be able to see just how hot various parts get.

A frying pan to make some bacon butties would be a better way to see how hot she gets

Hmm, I might try strapping some bacon to the left case.