1979/80 CR390 Works Hybrid Project - Passion Inspiration Action

Moody,

top clamp is Scotts Performance Part # 854025
Bottom clamp is BRP 29 mm fat bar riser ( no offset)
( note BRP custom CNC machines all of Scotts Performance Parts)
Bars are 2010 Protaper Evo Windham RM Mid ( available anywhere you can buy Protapers
Vintage Sunline perches and shorty levers are vintage restoration by myself

Cables - I have Motion Pro standard black cables. Am going to buy the stainless braided cables from Phillip

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/01-0057/I have a new Gunnar Gasser too but prefer the look of the Motion Pro Turbo

www.scottsperformance.com

www.cyclegear.com (bars)

www.BRP.com also site sponsor here

Yes!

I sent them my top triple...along with complete old bar mounts with steel spacer tubes and old conical rubbers ( needed to determine proper bar mount bolt length) to Scotts Performance

Ask for Steve or Eric

They turned around my set up in 2 days.

Not sure if they have any more of the single piece top mounts PN# 854025. They told me it was the last one they had.... will not set up again unless they run 25 units.... I have the same exact 854025 on my modern TC450 so I think they should be making more of these. I'm swapping out my Scotts damper between both new and vintage bikes.

My configuration moves the bars forward 30mm from stock and up 20 MM over the original 1980 mounts that were angled to the back. Steve feels this will make the bike turn better and give me a better riding/racing position based on my size ( 6 ft) based on his years of Husqvarna riding /racing experience.

The ProTaper EVO Windham RM Mid gives a total rise of 3.900

If I don't like the height, I will switch to a CR High Bend

T

Stem Bearing Removal and Install

Wow! Has it been over a month since I worked on my baby???

Waiting for this tool to come in to make life a whole hell of a lot easier. Worth every penny! $27 + shipping.... now in my tool box where I will see it again in a few years!!!

Park Tool RT-2 Steering Head Race Remover , new bearings and races:


Driving the bottom race out.... this tool really does not grab much meat on the race... had to spin it several times to find a place where it would grab the race. Tried using a rubber mallet.... these races are in there tight and have been there for years.... switched to a 2 lb steel hammer... that will do the trick:


And another view:


Putting the new top race in after cleaning out all the old crap from the stem itself... I lined it up and gave it a good smack with a soft rubber mallet to set it in place:


Bottom race installed. I did this by lying the frame on the floor and again setting with a rubber mallet and using the bearing install tool to pound it all the way in until it was seated home:



Time to pop the stem and lower triple in the freezer for bearing install.

T

Was sick for a week. Corona Girls softball three days a week . Coaching little league three days a week. Working two jobs . Knotsberry Farm! Rode moto 2x times to relieve stress .. no time for my baby!!!

Cheating!!! Yes!!!I busted my knuckles with a punch several times before giving up.. my stem tube is so large there is hardly anything to grab on the race itself... the new tool barely even caught an edge... best $27 ever spent...

T

Foot Pegs Are on!

Nothing as exciting as putting the footpegs back on...

Fully restored with Dull Nickel Sulfate on both Pegs and springs. Got rid of the old Bufo bolts in Favor of new SST 316 Allen Heads and new Blue ring lock-nuts from Phillip!

Right side Rear view with spring and nut:


Left side front View:


Front view both pegs:


T

Guess What I'm doing tommorrow?

Three Guesses... the first two don't count:

Freezer shot:


Polished Top Triple, New Bearings, Fully restored locking nut and top nut in Dull Nickel Sulfamate;


Hoping that the new bearing will just drop all the way on.

T

Steering stem bearing install 1980 CR390

Ok .. the stem has been in the freezer overnight... now I am getting all the essentials ready for install....



Why do I have a Blowpop and a Foot of Fruit Rollup?

This is why... a frosty freezer stem and a helpfull son!!!


Hired help is fading fast...... maybe I should have gave him the Blowpop after we finished....


Choices on the washers.. HMMNNNN?


Went with thick washer and plenty of Mobil 1 synthetic grease........ note that it will not go down all the way, even with the stem frozen overnight ... I had to tap it all the way down:


This is not the correct gap.... washer is to thick... Time to strip it off... this sucks...


After the faulty trial fit up, I know now the thin washer is the one to use... note that it will fit perfectly into the rubber seal area around the bearing itself....:


Proper gap now with thin washer under lower bearing ( note that I used an old tabbed locknut for trial fit up:


Fully restored with Dull Nickel Sulfamate Plating tabbed locknut... note orientation with step down to fit into and against seal area on bearing:


Detail top view of tabbed locknut... I took it to very snug and then backed off 1/8 of turn... turns nice but firm... not to tight:


Top Triple is now in place with fully restored and similar plated 32 MM retaining nut:


Dad... can I stop polishing now?


Pretending is fun!


T

Fork disassembly

Here is the start of my fork restoration.... starting at dis-assembly:

I have never taken a set of these apart so this is kind of fun...any of you guys tell me if I am missing anything? IS everything correct with the damping rod, two seals lock ring spacer, top out washer spring and fork tube.. see picture:

1983 CR500 Husqvarna forks internal:


Post up any thoughts guys.. again, first time I have had a set of these apart.

Where does the gold valve emulator go once I get it?

Note: Edit 4/8/10 HuskyT - Pic is missing the conical washer that goes at the bottom of the damper tube!
T

Would you believe mine both came off using an allan wrench... not even an impact... Mind you they have been sitting dry for quite a while... maybe that helped...

I will have information for you tommorrow on the bottom bar clamp part number. Eric is out today at Scotts Performance. Left a message for him. I now remember that I bought them through Cycle Gear .. he could not find it originally looking under my name. Hope to have an answer sometime tomorrow ) have not been able to find my copy of the receipt. ( and I have looked!)

Pics are worth a thousand words... some of them may seem really simple but the simpler the better if you have never done this before. Hope it helps.

I just priced out diamond coating the shafts at $450 plus shipping. A little pricey for me!

T

Original Starting point for Fork rebuild 40 mm Ebay forks

Here is where I actually started with these forks:

Ebay - $80 front end 1983 CR500 with DLS


Note banged up white paint and cracked wheel at 12 oclock:


And a close up of the DLS:


Torn apart:


Axle clamps:


T

Lower Fork Tubes

So I stripped apart my fork tubes last week. Want to do soemthing different for my bike. Before I go to far though I wanted to make sure all was good so I took a drive over to Race Tech and met with Luis and Matt Wiley. Matt gave my tubes a good review and told me the bushings, considering they were originals from 1983 were in extremely good condition ... almost like new in fact Lovin' it!

I had them stripped and cleaned in an industrial degreasing tank and then blown out with High pressure air . You would not believe all of the junk that came out of the lowers!

I'm going with a full polished look... no paint for me...

Polished lower tubes:




Polished axle clamps and cleaned threads with new SST lock nuts:


Bushings with next to no wear ! Amazing!!

Both bushings:


End view:


Insides are cleaner than new and ready for rebuild!

Matt @ Race Tech is now working on a spring selection for me and a set of gold Valve emulators and adaptors.

T