1979 WR 250

Your wife have one or two?

what?

I believe he has to maintain some horses Can't just let them sit.

yeah, their all bloody and they just sit around and burn hay.

lol, i see now...duh

OK, got enough work stuff done to go spend some time in the garage. Then SWMBO came home from the store in a bad mood, so I had to stop abruptly.

First off, there's the tweaked subframe:





Also, it looks like one of the POs had a problem with his nuts caught between the handlebars and tank:


Back brake is probably on the parts list too:

Pipe looks good:

Except the case of herpes it caught from one of the POs:

Silencer has the back piece pushed all-the-way to the front:

It would seem like I could pull that out, get a 1985+ spark arrestor, and put in a new core, but this dent will make that more challenging:

Then the interesting things:
The kicker, this is not stock right? Current setup only give about 3/4 of a full revolution per kick:

This brake pedal looks a little off to me too:

What should the set-up of the bearings in the swing-arm be?
I've got two rather low profile roller bearings with an open space in-between them, and no sleeve or anything to hold them in place. Is that right? one of them moves a little-bit side-to-side, which shouldn't happen so something is off.

OK, at this point, I know I'm posting prolifically after saying I didn't have any time....

The brake pedal matches what's in the part book, so that's right, it was just mounted in the wrong spot (it was on the same bolt as the chain tensioner, and the stop-adjuster was nowhere near anything that made any sense). Once I'm ready to start putting this thing back together I might need a close-up photo of the lower right side from someone who has one properly set up so I can see where things are supposed to go.

So far, EVERYTHING is metric! There is hope! I also see I'll be adding some M5 to my collection of M6, M8 nuts and bolts. Does the '79 use the tall wide nylocs on all of the easy-to-wrench bits as well?

The subframe is a bit of a conundrum. I could probably get it a bit straighter with the application of heat and pressure, but that might not be worth the risk of buckling the tubes, they're pretty dented/warped already. If the engine checks out and I can run it 'as is', maybe that's my route. There seem to be frames available, maybe I should see what the engine needs before I continue down this line of thinking....

Take your time with the frame. Being taught by an old time welder a piece of mason line can be used to check the straightness between two points. Make it as close as you can get it. Some of these old huskys were ridden hard, abused and put away wet. They need some TLC.


I buy my metric fasteners from, www.boltdepot.com

I keep it all metric. I hate changing wrenches and sockets between imperial and metric fasteners.

I've got a local bolt place that has had nearly every bolt I have shown up looking for. Their tall nyloc nuts even have blue inserts!

Eric, I have a similar situation on my 74 400WR pipe. Is the "back piece" you describe above about 9.5 inches in from the end of the pipe? (that's what it is on mine). I've assumed that what I'm seeing is really the back end of the spark arrestor, that it's where it's supposed to be in the pipe, and that the rest of the muffler (including the end piece and circlip) has been lost. Can't find any after-market or NOS replacement parts, so I'm having a perforated tube and end-piece made to just fit over what you've identified as the "back piece", wrapping it with packing and having a spring made to go between the SA and the end piece to keep the system in compression. My pipe is about 73+ mm ID at the exit, so everything we're making is based on that dimension. I have extra internal retaining clips for the end piece if you need one...
JT

Here are the components (minus packing) of my '85 silencer:


On the top of the photo are the Spark Arrestor "USFS Approved" starting in 1985.
Also the "back piece" that goes between the spark arrestor and the baffle/packing. Open end of the spring faces the pointy side of the spark arrestor.
Below that is the silencer body.
Below that is an AM baffle tube I bought off of Amazon (one of the very rare exceptions to the 'metric only' rule)
Below that is the original baffle tube.
Packing not pictured.

My 1979 silencer is a bit shorter, but my thought is if I could get a spark arrestor with those magic words stamped on it that'll fit on the end of the silencer, I can do something similar. I'll have to figure out attachment of the spark arrestor, but I'm not to the point of worrying about that too hard yet.

I'm going through the same issues with a 78 spark arrestor, unknown bits inside and dents that are preventing me from pulling it out. I plan to use a stud welder, which makes the "herpes", but I will sand it flat.

On your tweaked subframe, I would go for it, if it does not work find another frame. I took some bends out using carefully placed wood blocks, clamps and heat. See the "78 WR (OR?)" thread.

Saw that, feeling a little inspired. Though the tubes at already a bit dented up so I put 50/50 odds on a failure regardless of how careful I am.

My lack of experience with stud welders, and evidence-in-hand as to what lack of experience and stud welders looks like has me debating this one (plus when I don't own a stud welder, my deniability on the expansion chamber repair is solid). My two top ideas:
1) Drill opposite side, just big enough to get a sturdy punch through to push the dent, fill/weld the hole I create when done.
2) drill about a 1/2 inch hole right in the middle of the dent, that should be sufficient access to get the end piece out, then weld a small plug/plate over the hole.

Idea 1 would leave a rough patch where the dent currently is, also a weld mark on the opposite side (I'm sure a qualified auto body guy could eliminate both, I work in an office). Also more snags when repacking the silencer (not an everyday task, but annoying enough already).
Idea 2 creates a visible patch, and results in more arc time, but if I match the gage of the mounting bracket with the patch, it becomes visually neutral.

Does anyone in your area repair pipes? The heat and air pressure is cheap and quick.
I cut that section off the pipe and pounded it out the dents. I then brazed it back together and sanded it down. You must mark both sides of the cut sections before cutting so they align properly.

There' a motorcycle shop I have taken a pipe to before. Repair cost was good, but they had it about 3 months. I suppose that's better than Husqvarnaoutlet, last time I sent them parts, they had them about 9 months....

I wonder if Pacific Crest would do the silencer too...