1980 390 WR Engine Will Not Turn Over

I finally got my new bearings and seals installed and reassembled my cases (I am not very quick in my restoration.....).

One question before I keep reassembling the engine and proceeding with the restoration........ I tried shifting the transmission with the kick starter case off, but no luck. I assume I should be able to shift the transmission while slowly turning the counter shaft sprocket or clutch basket?

During reassembly I kept worrying that the shifting drum spring-loaded arm end roller would pop out of the gear selector cog (It seems the end roller seems very prone to popping off the gear selector cog). See below photo. I assembled the cases and re-split them and the roller was fine and engaged in the gear selector cog so I reassembled the cases, but it won't shift.

Any thoughts or guidance on how to ensure/ troubleshoot I got everything correct before proceeding with more reassembly? In other words to make sure the transmission shifts correctly?

There is a washer behind that shaft on the rod. That holds everything even. Make sure that spring loaded lever isn't on a angle.

The gear at the bottom where the shifting pawl is needs to show two teeth above the diameter of the drum. The shifter drum needs to be in 4th gear. That's the set up on these.

That little knot has your pointing to is neutral. Turn the drum clockwise to forth gear. The next gear past the red pointer clockwise is second an so on.


Trust me the first tranny in this design is the hardest.

The transmission needs to be in 4th gear for disassembly and re assembly. There is an alignment that needs to occur prior to assembly. This was discussed a few months ago. If not followed it will shift hard, if not at all.

There was a manual page showing everything needed.

Fact,,
I also notice the crank shaft can bind up too. Once the case is assembled I take a tapered cold chisel (wedge) opposite the connecting rod and lightly tap it in a tad in the middle of the counter weights. This relaxes the crank and aligns it again.

I learned this on the husky chainsaws. The counter weights can bind things up.

4th gear is the book answer but all relative to the position of the shift drum and the semi toothed gear in upper right of your pic. I use drum full clockwise (1st) and 2 teeth showing but the 4th gear center answer is the book. Both work

With the gear that turns the shifter drum two teeth need to show above the radioused of the drum when the drum is in forth gear. There's a picture somewhere.

The shifter gear and drum need to be timed so there is enough movement so we have all the gears First through sixth. If it's not timed correctly we dont have all the gears when shifting.

Your out put spline looks like it's been chewed on a little.?

Split the cases (shifting drum was in 4th gear gear) and everything looked fine. Reassembled the cases and it shifts fine. A little perplexing why it did not shift before. Thanks to everyone for your help and onward with the balance of the restoration. BTW- Output shaft is fine.... a little grease on the shaft made it look gnarly.