1980 WR 390 Rescue...

Question... The chain rub guard on the swing arm... Does the long flap belong on the top or bottom of the arm?

Here's one , does this look like your's ?

No... My bike has a chain tensioner. I put it on with the long tongue on top like most bikes have them. Then I looked in the parts manual and it shows it on the bottom so I flipped it. It did not have a wear guard when I go the bike so I am not positive.

have we got a clue what that other mounting tab is for

What colors did your guy use for the silver and gold? I'm about to have some more pieces powdered.

Chain guard... apparently not used on this bike. It is not shown in the parts manual.

The Silver is "Silver Anodize" with clear coat.
The gold I am not sure but I can check. It was some powder he had "Laying around" that he bought and did not like the color... I think it is perfect.

As with regular paint, I would assume the colors differ slightly between manufacturers so make sure you see a sample before committing.

You can always contact my coater and ship the parts to him.

www.sportbikepc.com

It's shown in the '81 parts book. P/n. 15 18 220-01


And in the '80 Auto supplement.. But then the swing has no tab for it instead!

Cool... I even have the spacer (either 19 or 47) It's going without though unless I find a good used complete setup with the hardware.

Ya it looks really good. I'll see if my powder guy can find this.

That's an awesome silver match, wish I had seen that before I used a silver that has a bit too coarse of a flake in it. Sparkles, but yours is spot on to OEM.

Haven't up[dated for a few days... other projects...

I have been obsessing about the location of the left shock remote reservoir in front of the air box between the kick lever and the carb... Not liking the location.
I turned the top of the shock so the hose faces rearwards like the right side and found a location under the seat I am happy with. It will require re-working the stock mud guard or fabbing a complete new one but it is a much better location IMO.
Cable ties are just for trial location.





I was also not happy about clamping bare hose clamps down on my freshly powder coated frame so I came up with this... Slide a piece of 1/2" heat shrink tube over the clamp to isolate it from the frame... Clamps I had were too large in diameter but this will work!



I also spent some time tidying up the wiring and cable routing...







I checked continuity of the ground circuit from the engine to the coil and the kill switch and came up good but I am still going to run an extra ground cable from the reed block to the coil. I ordered a roll of 1/4" x 25' braided copper bonding cable from Amazon today to make up a nice cable.

Note how my powder coater did exactly as I asked and masked off the coil and voltage regulator brackets after blasting and before coating... Can't say enough good about this guy!

I believe your right on the left shock hose going that way the air box stone baffle is knotched out for that hose in that area.

On the chamber upper bolt with bracket do you have the spring on the bolt on the pipe? This absorbs the pipe vibration so the cracks intime won't happen. I can't see it in the pic. Sorry went back a page. And seen the spring.

That bike is the best looking 390 I've ever seen. So purdy.

Yes the right side shock reservoir is where it is supposed to be, there is a stubby piece of tubing that is there for the reservoir to mount to. The left side hose is supposed to go forward and down along the frame with the reservoir clamped to the frame tube in front of the airbox between the carb and the kick start. Very tight in there and not the best place IMO.

silicone those wires to the coil and why are you running a ground wire to the reed block that seems really weird to me most guys just run a little short piece from the stator through the grommet to a motor mount

Nice trick with the hose clamp and shrink wrap

Stator has a verified good ground to the engine... engine to coil is what I am concerned with.
The only place the ground connection will likely change is at the motor mounts due to corrosion caused by electrolysis due to the dissimilar metals (Magnesium, Aluminum and Steel) all in the same area and possibly exposed to moisture. Stator is pretty much water tight so good contact there is not likely to change as it will at the mounts themselves.

Aren't you still running steel bolt to mag cylinder/intake? I'm no expert on electrolysis, but if I were picking where to have it occur, I'd rather have it in a spot (engine mount) where corrosion doesn't have potential to impact the air seal on the intake. Also, Aluminum (if you're using the stock mount) is between Steel and Magnesium on the Galvanic series (granted those bolts holding the aluminum plates on the front of the engine are steel anyway).

where is the middle picture?? much more important than galvanic corrosion occurring when we are all dead...