1981 430XC Street Legal Motard Conversion Project - Schimmelaw

Hey Shim.
Great work!
What size rim and tire are you running on the rear?

I am looking to build me a monster paddle tire for my 430 using a 17 inch X 2.50 rim with a metzler 150/70-17 and have scat trac paddle it up for me.

Highdez,
Thanks. A couple more.
Front: Excel 3.50 X 17 36 spoke w/ Bridgestone Battlax BT-003r 120 X 70 X 17.
Rear: Excel 4.25 X 17 36 spoke w Briidgestone Battlax BT-003r 140 X 70 X 17.
Rick

Not final, but the front got mounted up. A little grease on the axle and everything went right together. Tire has a fat 1/8" clearance on both sides of fork covers. No rubbing/no tolerance issues/no extra grinding required on the caliper/relocation bracket/disc. All is as it should be.

Still needs work but at least parts are out of the bins.

Thanks Motosportz.

Well, since I got some skins up underneath that bad boy, and its a roller at this point, I thought I'd take it outside for its first real photo shoot. Beautiful day today. Been over 13 months since scoot has been off the boxes and seen the light of day - nice to get outside.

Rick- your attention to detail is astounding and the quality is superb.
Keep up the posting - I'm mesmerized by the transformation.

I especially like the rear suspension - your design?

Hwy,

You ROCK my friend! My "old" dream helmet is coming to fruition. You make some bad as- stuff. Highly highly recommend you/Privateer Racing for any vintage/evo graphic need. A-1 sir. I am truly thankfull!

Rear suspension rebuilld is on the list. I've gotten so used to seeing that wood holding everything up that it will look weird w/ a set of shocks finally mounted up. One of the last 3 or 4 "big" things which need to be done.

It keeps getting better...... awesome build.

Stu

A little under the fender work done.

Under seat and inner fender re-white. Tried epoxy paint, didn't work - too shiney, too white and cracked/chipped. Tried rattlecan "plastic paint" - it too was shiney, cracked and chipped. Adhesion issues, both of them. Ended up w/ ...........don't laugh...............Kilz stain killing spray. What I started w/ was pretty bad so anything I did wouldn't hurt anything. Initial impression is this might just work for my application. I haven't been gentle with the parts and there no scratching, chipping, flaking or cracking.

Buddy of mine cut me some aluminum bushing to mount side number plates up. I'm attaching the plates with flat head allens and rubber grommets (similar to the upper shock mounts) versus attachement w/ the rubber mounts and nuts.

Got the chain cut and kinda mounted up. Got everything ready for the master and to my suprise, the chain was supplied w/ the clamp on the master and not the clip type. Dang it. Another part on order. The bright side is there are no significant clearance issue anywhere along the "drive line". Chain has got 1/4" clearance w/ tire. Chain fits up nicely (centered) in the modified chain guide and tensioner. Chain misses the nut for the brake switch mount by about 3/16". And most importantly, the lower part of the chain guide has clearance w/ the rim/tire, there is still some room for chain adjustment and the rearward movement of the wheel. Its could be close but not fatal.

Eventually, yep. Texas requires liabilty insurance, state inspection (headlight, tail/brake/license plate light combo, horn, mirror and basic operation of scoot) w/ "green sheet" (out of state bikes only) and registration (pay tax, title and reg fees) and walk out w/ a plate and new title in the mail.

Beautiful work schim.,

Are you running an O-ring chain?

How much clearance do you have between the 140 tire and the chain?

Hidez,
Thank you sir.

D.I.D. 520VM. Heavy duty o-ring that will last a looooooong looooooong time w/ some basic maintenace. Remember to order up a regular master link when purchasing. This chain is supplied w/ the clamp on style master (PITA).

Fat 1/4" clearance between chain and tire. 140 ended up being just the right size tire. 150 would have been pushing it.

.........(Spelling Punctuation ETC)...... Keep it up w/ the toties. Your post while running "rich" always amuse me.

HT,
120 got purchased and I ended up cutting some links out. Better to be long than short. Got one on every bike I own but for a Harley (belt drive) and a mini-chopper I built/building.
13/52.
Rick

Under seat and inner fender re-white. Tried epoxy paint, didn't work - too shiney, too white and cracked/chipped. Tried rattlecan "plastic paint" - it too was shiney, cracked and chipped. Adhesion issues, both of them. Ended up w/ ...........don't laugh...............Kilz stain killing spray. What I started w/ was pretty bad so anything I did wouldn't hurt anything. Initial impression is this might just work for my application. I haven't been gentle with the parts and there no scratching, chipping, flaking or cracking

Painted the floors with Kilz in two rooms this summer before laying down laminate flooring- still on the pants I wore, and yes I do wash them. That is tough stuff

Left-kick, air cooled, streetable vintage hooligan.

How sick would this thing be crossed-up and wheelieing acrross someone's lawn beatin' feet from the local cops.

I WANT ONE!

Might I point out it says x ring in the picture. At any rate that is what I use DIDvmxring and always use the rivet on master link it is the same thickness as the rest of the chain so it goes through the guides same as the other links. Strangely I seem to have to buy the rivet link seperately. Besides now BMW owns Husky and the BMW riders don't like paying $500 for a new chain and sprockets at the dealer. The BMW chain is a loop and the mechanic has to take the swingarm off. So I hear at least for the 800 cc model. A two or three pound sledge on one side and a ball peen hammer on the other seems to work for me I know you are supposed to have some special gadget.

The project looks much nicer than the stuff I do. At one time I bought a set of Metzler marathon tires, modified up a low steel fender and a big steel headlight and rode around for a couple of months on an 1983 xc 500. What I found was there is a lot chain harmonics when on the throttle. If you use the thing to keep the chain tight your riding buddies will tell you it is going crazy. You might in your spare time think about a rubber cushioned hub. Not sue if you can retrofit the rubber clutch basket used around 1980 or so. Maybe it is in the long thread I havn't read.

Fran

Fran

Chain harmonics are huge on my streeted 83 WR250. Cush hub is a great idea.

Chain harmonics? Huh? Boys, don't have a clue what ya'll are talking about but curious and always open to learning something new.