1983 510 4T

bougth this sidecover too and have the same problem ... they re not wide enough and the exhaust is melting the plasic.
Seems they rebuild the covers from inner side of the original ones, so they re to small. You can although see this at the frontmounting under the tank ... impossible to mount them at the original mount at the frame

My original ones with an orange sticker and the trash ones in white ... You can see the difference

about the loop ...
if You want a lightwight one using as a motocross I would cut it off .. but if You want an enduro with taillight and numberplate leave it ...
but surpize is right ... seems the loop is a little bit to high ... maybe a damage from a backwards roll over

I am thinking about putting some "exhaust insulation" fibre tape on the exhaust pipes from about where the pipes go into/under the sidecovers.. .. I will look at the rear frame.. I can't remember seeing the tubing being creased or bent .. even the gussetting along the frame near the seat and muffler mount points appears to be straight.. any way.. I'll run a straight edge along that section of the frame to see what it is like.. oh ..yeah.. calling in to the hardware store on the way home for a couple of new hacksaw blades.. only want to run the motocross rear guard..

getting a bit more done.. massaged the rear frame loop so that it doesn't stick up in the air quite so much...still not happy with the angle of the rear gaurd.. been playing with the tank stickers to see where they fit..

rear loop may have been bent to allow easier lifting, personally i would cut it down and replace it with a webbing strap I use small sections of tie down webbing cutting the holes with a soldering iron easier to get your leg over.

Bike is together and running. tho starting hasn't been easy.. after a couple of attempts.. I think I have it solved..
so... fuel on.. choke on.. pull in decomp.. kick through about 4/5 times.. get some fuel into the cylinder.. get it just over TDC and one swift kick.. starts straight away.. (cold).. even been able to do this in my runners.....now juts have to decide what to do with the ITC.. they sem like there is very little in the way of dampening (fully rebuilt).. tho from what I have read in many places.. they don't have much to start with..

"I use small sections of tie down webbing cutting the holes with a soldering iron easier to get your leg over. "

there are easier ways... flowers can work or sweet talk..i recommend massage and soft light and nice muzak.....

You need to rebuild the ITC's with stiffer rebound sampling shims. Stock were very soft for the larger gentlemen I.e not a skinny young kid.

Anyone else had this happen to a 1983.. I put the bike on its side to take the clutch cover off.... and the engine oil runs out the countershaft....made a big mess on the carpet..??!! Is this "normal"..how do you stop this oil from leaking.??

summat wrong there, mine only has a small leak to keep the chain oiled...

brand new seal..should the bearing be a double shielded or single..?? or not at all..??

The seal is the seal of a sealed bearing. The thing that looks like it might be a seal on the parts sheet is just a plastic or nylon cylinder. It isn't impossible that the bearing pocket is too large in which case the pocket needs sleeved. I believe that case is aluminum so this is much less likely than in a two stroke. That sealed bearing which should only have one seal can be fished out on these things so long as they are not 87-88. Or I suppose the shaft could be loose on bearing like someone else had on here lately. With the bike upright these things are not so much of a problem.

There is a reason why Andy had splined sleeves with an o-ring groove on the bottom face of it made...

So.. what I did was to make a nylon sleeve like a 1981 430 CR has... and machine a groove in the edge and put an o-ring in it.. hoping this will stem the flow of oil..

Hi Guys,

I have done this myself before, the nylon sleeve my 82 240 had worn and chewed into the seal and damaged it.

If the bearing is o.k, get another bearing the same size and using a pick remove one of the seals.

The seal clips into a groove, I believe the seals may even be available separately but easy to remove seal from another

bearing.

But the original problem was the worn nylon sleeve, it needed to be machined thinner on the end that goes against the

bearing so it goes against the inner bearing race and not against the seal face.

Or put a o-ring on the shaft then the nylon sleeve, again that stops the nylon sleeve from chewing into the seal.

I hope this makes sense?


Cheers, Dave.