1983 Husky 430WR Resto NETRA Hare Scrambles

phil has them...there are some on ebay too. any liquid swede one will work..they are a z instead of being flat

Mike, don't slow down keep the build going. I have had excellent service from HVA Factory - crazy fast shipping to the US.

MikeDi, if you're still looking for an exhaust stateside, you might want to give HVA guru Marty Strouse (AHRMA member, previous Husqvarna dealer and owner of Paradise Cycle-Kart in PA). He just might be able to help you find what you're looking for.

In Jan 2013, he rebuilt my 83 Husqvarna motor -- very pleased with his work and HVA expertise. Here's a contact info link: http://www.yellowbot.com/paradise-cycle-kart-reynoldsville-pa.html

Sidebar: I have an old Dirt Bike magazine test article on this bike, and it stated that this was the best big bore enduro of '83 -- aka, the ultimate "Lazy Man's" bike. True talk, for sure. After the motor was done, I had my Ohlins rebuilt by Drew Smith, installed a proper set of Racetech fork springs, changed out my stock KS for the 84 & up KS lever, went one tooth down on the CS sprocket (from 12 to 11), and finally, put on some very nice aftermarket footpegs. What a difference properly setup bike makes. This bike will go up & around & through anything that's thrown at it...very smooth,tractable with stable and predictable handling. Actually like my aircooled WR430's (82 & 83) more than the four LC 400WR's that I previously owned. Wish you the best on your 430 resto.

Thanks for the information, I appreciate any advice at this early stage of the build.

Hey Guys,
When installing the kick start return spring, do you have to wind any tension into the spring or just assemble as is. I took it apart to replace the O ring and felt it snap back.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Va1ZUZF6jk


thanks Huskydogg

send it to NASA,they may be able to figure it out...I mean they sent a man to the moon........

So we were close, should have thought of the vise trick.

Separate topic, but should the nut that holds primary crank gear on be threadlocked? And does that nut only take 40Nm of torque? When we pulled the primary gear with a puller, it shot off the shaft like it had 200bps of torque on it.

It is a right hand thread so the normal engine rotation will keep it from backing off. I have never found any anti lock compound taking a primary gear off.

When a taper lock has line to line contact, it takes very little torque to seat it, but so much more to release it when removing. You may have noticed there are no key slots in the gear or crankshaft end. Because keys are not needed for a proper taper fit. They were used quite a bit for counter shaft sprockets on some older Euro bikes.

do not over torque it. you wont get it off. husqvarna engineers arent stupid, theres a reason it has that torque spec.

It's on there, and it ain't comin' off.. Braaaap.

I had reached my limit at that point. Let me know when it's time to do yours. Extra hands helped. I'm going to make a tool for holding everything in place for next time.

bring it to Albany NY I will do for you and show you how
easy once you see it done

I modified a pitman arm remover (2 arm) with an exhaust cutoff wheel to fit under the primary gear then use an air impact to break the taper. You can also use a 3 jar puller but be careful as some are thin enough to break

Thanks guys, we did get it off and reassemble so good to go.

scuff off where the front engine mounts touch frame (4 holes) to ensure good ground. same where coil mounts.....swingarm to frame (inside) helps too

Some have added a secondary ground wire between engine and frame as a backup. If you intend to run a single wire kill switch you will need to add a ground between the handlebar and frame. Otherwise use a 2 wire kill switch as one lead goes to the frame. Essential if you have rubber mounted bar clamps.

Well, Front rim is split on the seam. a coating of filth hid the crack.