1983 XC500

Thats it? I thought there were more.

I'm not really the expert on this...

Me either, I think I read some where that a lot of them are , but I jump all over the place so I could have imagined it. I think I'll have a drink while I ponder. Thanks OBD!

Cheers

So I got some time, and started to put the motor together. Nice and easy. Then once it was assembled I checked the transmission, I changed the 4th and 5/6 gears on the clutch shaft. Shifts fine. Then I noticed the crank wont spin! WTF!! So start rooting around and see the crank I touching the inside of the right case. A little further investigation and I see the crank bearings in the left case are not touching the plate by about 2mm. I thought I heard them touch down when I dropped them in!! Apparently not. So apart she comes for a reheat and tap to touch the plate. An inspection of the crank shows a light rub mark, though the tuning is not lost. Just a refresher..... MAKE SURE THE BEARINGS ARE ALL THE WAY HOME BEFORE YOU ASSEMBLE THE MOTOR! Lesson learned.

A couple more pics.

That's better.

nice catch

Here something I do lately. Because we all pull are cranks in with our crank tool. Sometimes cranks are pulled a bit off center.
I go ahead and put the front engine bolts with frame mounting plates and torque them down to spec. Humm if crank is now tight and just
a bit off center , I pull crank back a bit with tool and pull back to center. Check to see how smooth and free crank is.

I know Huskydogg used to tap with a mallet , But I like to use the puller. I finding many are a bit tight and are binding at bit, why not center again.

Mallets are for tuning a crank, not installing a crank. After spending all that time tuning to get it as perfect as you as you can, why smack the thing on the side with a mallet?

I should have noticed that, but I didn't. Since I've been wearing these cheater glasses I have been missing a lot. I stepped off a ladder from the second rung and almost killed myself.

If it weren't for the slight drag when spinning the crank, (I know I said it wouldn't spin, not freely anyhow) I would have never caught it. I checked my build book and found when I built the 450 the rotor was dragging when I installed the ignition. The crank was pulled too far to the left. I don't know if it was the stubs installed too far into the cheeks or the taper on the rotor but I rebuilt the crank twice to the book and the bearings were seated to the stop plate, it was still marginal. So that crank is slightly off center in the cases to make up for the rotor clearance. 1MM is not a lot of clearance as far as I am concerned.

After sitting here reading all the posts, I think that the problem is i install the bearings all at the same time, as in, heat the cases and drop the bearings. I don't do the left case and pull the crank in, then put the right case on to see where the crank position is, then put the right case in the oven and drop those bearings ( always checking that they seat to the stop plates ). That is the way I have been doing it. I think I will change to the latter method to get the crank in the perfect position as there is not a lot of room in the crank cavity. Always learning hurts.

You can also tap the bearing to seat them. SKF makes a special impact tube with a special adapter for each bearing dia. I did not order the whole kit
but went ahead purchased these husky sizes ( only two for Huskies engine ) and tap each bearing side with this exact tool to do final set. Please note this is only for tapping the final setting of bearing. All huskies are a Heat Shrink fit. Also they are removed only by heating cases.

Gave the exact instructions to person in Dallas , To - Use heat to remove and install. Oh was machanic in airlines , he still when ahead and pressed them out cold and in cold. ( I even made a copy of shop manual for him ) Guess what he called me asking why he bearings fell out. Really , he pulled and tore out mag material in bearing bores. Cases are done! Unbelievable ! Asked do I want to purchase his bike cheap ? I passed

Cases at temp, ok. The only tool I have is me. I can't afford the good tools, that's why I screw things up!

I got the frame apart and degreased. Off to blasting tomorrow. Little welding when I get it back. This bike was ridden to OBLIVION and BEYOND! They used washers and bicycle stem nuts for rear axel spacers, The chain guide was totally ripped off, The chain tensioner was gone but not before the spring wore the mounting collar through. Do you think they saw that when they painted over it? Both motor rear mounting plates are cracked and one side is notched out by half a bolt.

The parts list shows the upper shock mounts are removable. I'm afraid to damage the hole by removing them for plating, any ideas?

I finally got the piston and cylinder installed. The frame is at blasting and the powder should be here by Monday. I still have to blast the fork lowers and axle plates, I am also thinking of using the powder on the tank. I am still looking for a chain tensioner and chain guide. So if you have one to spare I'm interested. I also have two declutching rods and can't remember which was original or which came with the replacement case half. If you know please chime in. Thanks Chris

I just left them in. The frame was blasted and powdercoated. I did have to use some fine sandpaper to remove enough powedercoat material to get the shock bushings to slide onto the mounts. Turned out fine.

Thanks Todd, I left them in also, but I have some hi-temp tape to mask them and every other area I don't want powder to stick. Chris

regardless, i would use the longer one, which might be a four stroke piece?..will help ease clutch pull. just have to insure you use the magura power levers to insure complete clutch engagement and the center push rod adjusted right..both arms are the "z' style which are improvement over the original flat arm. better angle to be pulled by the cable which is mounted higher than the arm. i think the z style is always seen on liquid bikes only.

both actuating cams are really whupped however...the "flat" one that clearly shows the pushrod wear can be welded and ground again to be serviceable...or at least i have with success..the other "stepped" unit is a newer updated style which is probably from a newer engine. it can be used and is an upgrade when in good condition. it too is kinda beat tho...

Thanks, I'll look for one of the newer stepped style rods and use the longer arm. I hope the push rod isn't too bad, is there a measurement for that, I didn't see it in the manual. Thanks