1984 WR400 help

Okay thanks. I got new ones before and they only lasted one ride... I'll try em again I guess

Exhaust mount rubbers should last for a very long time. One ride only means something was done wrong. Possibly fitted with excessive stress on it. Was it an aftermarket exhaust?

thanks. im 99% sure its stock

thanks tendo. i did all this and with the allen all the way in it doesnt even come close to taking up the freeplay. new push rod would fix this i believe?

heres an interesting post i found from andy at HVA

"Don't place too much importance on the thickness of plates. The key to all clutches is making sure the stack of plates is at least 2mm more than the gap you get when the clutch hub and pressure plate are held together.

Andy."

ill have to check this out. ill be with the bike for the weekend after new years

also im currently trying to order the following parts and have contacted a few people

push rod
clutch plates, steel (if i wind up needing them)
clutch cover gasket
exhaust rubber mounts
sprocket seal

once all this is done ill be onto some thorough cleaning and graphics. oh and riding!

Flywheel puller works nice and easy. A million times easier than the jet skis pull

And pulled this off to check out the seal since halls said they could sell me it for 15 bucks

Lap that flywheel to the shaft before you reassemble and you will never have trouble with it spinning [ shearing key ] .
Cheers

The seal we have talked about is that black plastic bit. You can see the bearing numbers easily so buy a new bearing and gently take out one of the seals with a sharpened hacksaw blade and fit it to that bearing. [ they just pop in with your thumb ]
Hard to explain easy to do.

When you take the stator off you will see much the same plate under it with a seal fitted which may be the one halls is talking about.

How in pikkies.
Tool

Gently insert into seal

Pop seal out with a turning motion like turning a screwdriver.
Gently
Seal out

Done

And put back in

Obviously the shaft through the bearing will make it hard to remove that seal but it's knackered anyhow so who cares how it ends up.
It's the new one that you don't want to damage.

Nice pictorial. I use an exacto knife & slide it around the edge to pop it out without damaging the seal.

Why not just replace with the new bearing instead of jacking the seal from a new bearing. To put into a worn bearing.
Have done hundreds of them so don't say can't do it without splitting cases.
Don't ask
Later George

That is the way it sould be done for sure.

Just an easy shortcut George and I never said not to replace the bearing and in fact have said in a earlier post that others had done exactly that .

So show us in pikkies just how you did this so Tonyvisone can fix his problem properly.

See this thread and the link about half way down to a write up done by someone on Adventure Rider. Maybe Up-tite has a better method, but this looks like a reasonable method, although on the Husky I would still apply some heat with a torch to expand the bearing pocket before using the puller.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/countershaft-seal-bearing.9027/#post-92709

And if you really want to avoid leaking oil from the countershaft, try this from HVA.
http://hva-factory.com/bottom-end-g...g-flange-and-splined-spacer-seal-replaces-161

Thanks guys! For now I'll swap the seal only. And I know how to do the bearing when the time comes. I have too many toys so I try to not fix it unless it's broken. As I'm sure is the same for many of you.

I measured my clutch pack to be 33mm and the space they go into (without them in it) to be 32mm. So the pack is 1mm greater, not 2 as andy wrote about

Ahoy mates

the new pushrod came. Here they all are.

And i adjusted this screw to this point where I had about 3 mm of play where the clutch cable barrel goes on the arm.


But my clutch cable at the bars still looks like this...

And that seal came out super easy with a razor and flathead. Thanks for the tips!

at1mm difference, you apparently are missing a lot of clutch plate friction material....hence the excessive cable play regardless of the lever free play...its freeplay is way to close to the cyl and needs some new friction plates to move that lever further back and fit the clutch cable....

also need to inspect the what the pushrod pushes against..the actuating cam that lever bolts to. im surprised that rod is worn that way..perhaps that cam is really bad as well? surprising still given the overall shape of bike. sounds like you are adjusting correctly. there has to a missing part somewhere or incorrect cable. the adjustment at the center of the basket is sensitive and covers alot. something is wrong you are out of adjustment that bad. missing a clutch disc?

I assume you are right and I'm wrong, so correct me if I'm wrong...

Wouldn't thicker plates just push the basket out more meaning I'll have to adjust push rod in more just to get back to where I am now?