1984 WR400 help

I'll pull the cam out to see it
Pics soon.
Is cable stretch possible? It could be original
Oh and BTW this is the second push rod I have wrecked.

Currently the clutch pack is 33mm thick with 8 fibers and 7 plates. Fibers on both outsides obviously.
I just pulled out my old clutch pack from a parts box (I changed it just because they were stuck together years ago) and that was also 8 fiber 7 plates but at 33.4mm was almost half a mm thicker...

I cannot figure out how to remove the cam. Checking online now

The clutch arm, up on top of cases, looks fine or maybe adjusted a tiny bit too far.
Wrong cable?

to remove the cam, just undo the allen head bolt on the side just below the lever and pull the lever up. it should pop out the seal as you do. shimples. did you download the 400 parts manual from the tech ref section? you can see how it fits together there

when I got to my 400, it had 20 small washers filling up the large amount of cable slack. It took about 4 or 5 turns of the internal adjuster to bring the cable back to the lbar lever adjuster and I was just about out of clutch as its now slipping. the friction plates were worn down and the metal plates also showing wear with the dimples starting to be worn out.

I may be wrong but I assumed that the 2mm difference is the minimum difference btw pack and basket and at 1mm, your worn past serviceable. can someone confirm or correct this assumption before Tony buys new clutch

enjoying this thread, you should have it up and running like a new one soon just like this...


View: https://youtu.be/nGlLmk3fAvU

the rods should last a few hundred hours, unless you race or do hard woods riding. im not a big clutch abuser, so ive never really seen much wear..just a good dimple on that cam.
lay a thick rag or small piece of wood on top of the block and use a pry bar or large screw driver to slowly pop the arm and cam out. if desired you can unbolt the arm after removal but it needs to stay bolted on to use for prying. as stated it will bring the seal up with it. you will likely need to back off the adjustment on the pushrod first.
i like to grease one side of my sidecase gasket to allow for damage free removal..

cable stretch is likely but not like that.
a motion pro cable or really any new, lubed cable makes ALL the difference in good feel, especially with a dab of grease on the lever pivot and the cable ball end in the lever. (on the bars)

Thanks guys.

The rod I took out years ago was probably stock. The one I put in lasted maybe 5 hours. But maybe I didn't adjust it right back then.

Here's the cam. It looks good. It was the seal confusing me. I had the screw and push rod out.


To simulate a thicker clutch pack I can add a plate and fiber and see what happens.... just a thought.

Following pic is with clutch apart and rod push all the way in by hand.

the only place it touches is where that dimple is..it doesnt look terribly worn..
i ve had them bad enough to where ive welded and reground flat again.

guys, is the 5 spring set supposed to have the single ball bearing under the top hat? if so maybe its missing here? something doesnt add up..

This is ALL of the slack with the lower end tight.

no you got that all backward the pressure plate would be out farther and you need to adjust the push rod longer [ turn the little allen screw in]

not sure as i dont have any spare clutch cables i dont think laying around....as an aside cable looks dry as popcorn fart. sea foam "deep creep" is an excellent cable lube, and actually makes it the whole way down the cable.

just roughly measured the exposed inner cable on my 88, which is adjusted pretty good. roughly 7.5 inches...this is counting whatsinside the perch and whats naked above the crankcase,,so i dont think the cable is to blame..

thats what i mean. itll push the basket and push rod away from the cam. then ill have to push the push rod back in with the screw (which is close to maxed out) and then i t would be (i believe) how it is now....

let me know if im confusing it up

awesome thanks a ton. so something is wrong above and beyond all the possibilities i have exhausted...

sounds like something is missing causing excessive play..or the stack is too short

So I put 2 extra plates in just to simulate a thicker pack. This resulted as 35.5mm which is 3.5mm thicker than the empty space.
Still the same resulting cable slack but just had to put the center basket screw in deeper so rod contacted.


However, should this look like this??? Hoping the answer is no...

no

I hope that's a serious no!!
What should be there?? Some sort of bushing or spacer??

yes the cable attaches to the block just like that..i thought you were asking about the inner cable.

Dammmmmm!!!

If I added a few washers there the issue would seemingly be solved...??

is that an original cable? I bought a clutch cable from husky-parts a few years ago that was cut wrong, length was off, Phil promptly replaced it. If everything else is right, get a new cable.

It's likely stock. My father rode this bike from 84 til the late 90s, when i rode a pw80. then it sat and ran once or twice a year