1984 WR400 help

Mmmmm parts! And better yet looks like I get 2 seals on that sprocket bearing.


So all I need is oil and front 2 exhaust dampers. Thinking of going with the atf type f as mentioned above. No motorcycle shops nearby and the ones I called would need to order sae 30.

all of the above weights will work fine. just keep it changed..
i dont think anyone is bizarre for using the briggs oil, im glad it works and nothing slips. i wouldnt go out of my way for it tho. obsessing trying to find it would be bizarre, when there are plenty of oils that work, available at any napa, autozone, advance, etc etc. good for everyone to know its an option..i really dont think these bikes are picky about oil, long as the clutch likes it.

We used to use ATF in our KTM's but you had to change it often.
Stopped the clutch dragging.

So I got the bearing seal on, that was super easy!


New clutch cable is in, but as expected..... still slack in the cable..



I lapped the flywheel and just need to reassemble. And gasket surfaces and cleaned and new gasket is ready to go...

There is a longer clutch lever that can be used on the motor.
The lever you have looks kinda short.
This could fix the extra slack problem in the cable.

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/3736875/7315678.htm

the lever phil sells is not longer...the "hp" lever is simply a liquid cooled style lever. dont get me wrong, its a great upgrade for any primary kick engine that doesnt have the zee style arm..but its really an angle thing that the improvement lies in. phils are nice as they are stainless and less prone to wear, but are the exact same shape as 85-88 arms..
i do believe the the four stroke arms might be a tad longer, but that might be with the italian/swede ones..

Is the 84 a shorter lever, it looks like it might be?

i think its the way its bent making it appear that way. the liquid one has more material but sharper bends. layed over top each other, they appear to have almost identical mechanical advantage, its just the liquid ones have a much better angle, and the cable is straighter out of its housing. so i guess one is more efficient than the other...
i can go check in the garage again, i know i have both laying around..i just automatically put the liquid ones on any air cooled engines..

Hmmmm that would be nice if that worked

a longer arm would only require the lever to be pulled farther to fully engage the clutch. these bikes already require the lever to be just about to the bars anyway..also why its important to stick with the original style maguras, with their long throw. the new style lever sets really dont have enough "throw" to get the job done..

Silly question but how much Free movement does the clutch arm have ? 5-8mm is correct I think

5-8mm would be huge..going by memory i think manual is 3-4mm but i set them "as long as there is play"

I think the manual I read said 2.5mm which is about what I set it as

sounds good. it doesnt take alot, and i have checked a few times getting the motor hot..havent noticed the play changing too much..

you just need enough play that the clutch isn't slipping ie slightly "on" and that the lever adjuster can be used to get enough pull on the clutch to fully disengage. huskys (and most euro's) are known to have permanent drag on the clutch making the finding of neutral when stopped almost impossible. but by careful adjustment of the clutch internal adjuster, ive always got this to be very close to negligible. the 510 is a bit of dragger tho, it needs a further tweak. The 400 is like butter and 0 gear can be found when stationary but its beginning to slip so plates and springs are now required.

so, surprize, is the clutch always running true with the springs bolts and casting as delivered...or would there be some benefit in a dial indicator setup to get the plate run out as true as possible.

On old Brit iron the springs are each set to minimize drag and it makes a lot of difference. I haven't heard anything here yet on that, so we all just rely on the springs and casting and machining to be perfect then? Out of true is drag...

(remember how I was trying to be careful with the plates and springs...you or someone here said 'take em out and play cards with them ' or similar)

Could this clutch lever have been replaced with the wrong one?

looks like a clutch lever in a front brake perch, since the nut is on top. wont hurt tho..still a magura

interesting..... what if the cable barrel hole in the lever is closer (if its not the right lever). ill measure next time im with the bike. lever obviously get replaced all the time, and when my father rode this bike a lot (80s/90s) there was no internet obviously, and husky dealers in this area are rare. something close could have been thrown on....?