1984 WR400 help

I don't think it's a brake lever perch I think it's Husqvarna being smart (lazy) and using the same mold and machining for both perches.
Here are pics comparing a set with Maguras and a set with (short) swedish levers. The distance looks much the same.

the distances are the same for both the perches and levers, there is just a right side up for both. you can use a clutch lever in a brake and vice versa. on the perches, theres a shouldered bolt for the lever to pivot on, and this goes thru only one way. pretty sure this is the only difference for a brake/clutch perch. krudds pic shows the only diff between the two levers. going by your pics i really dont think the lever is your issue as long as it says magura..

okay thanks guys.... i guess im stuck how it is then.

all i have to do is throw the clutch cover and new gasket on, bolt up exhaust (still need front 2 rubber mounts. anybody know who has them?), bolt flywheel back on, and test ride! will update soon! thanks for all the help guys

wont be able to ride with that much play i dont think..are you missing any parts compared to the parts schematic? anything near the pushrod? do these plates meet the thickness spec?

Is the clutch actuating arm in the correct position, this can be confirmed by rotating backwards whilst putiing pressure on the push rod you will find a point where putting pressure on the rod has limited effect on the arm adjust the rod screw to suit, alternatively if you're sure that the rod is adjusted correctly cut the barrel off at the clutch arm end and buy a replacement that can be soldered in position from the motorcycle shop about 50c each the replacements are drilled and slotted.
The cable goes through the hole, ends of cable bent to suit the slot and then soldered in place tidy up with a wheel/grinder.

per these schematics im not missing anything. ive tried 2 sets of plates and they both did this. i think its something else. especially since i have the correct 2.5mm of play at the arm...

i was thinking about doing the new barrel thing... making the cable shorter. i figured you guys would say to find the issue instead haha. but this would work.... they also have new barrels that get held on by a set screw

I HAD AN ISSUE WITH A DRAWING LIKE THAT ONCE A HUGE WALL POSTER [FROM THE DEALER] OF A TRANS IT HAD ONE GEAR THAT WAS SHOWN UPSIDE DOWN TRIED TO PUT IT TOGETHER 3 TIMES BY THE PIX NO GO BUT ONLY ONCE BY FALLOWING THE WEAR MARKS ON THE GEARS [ THEIR NOT INFOULABLE]

So I was buttoning everything up tonight. Tried to put it in neutral with pliers when the clutch cover was off. I think I messed something up. I need to pull the clutch off to see it, but I ran out of time. I'll be with the bike this weekend though. Any input would save me some time. Thanks
Be sure to start video from its beginning. Not sure why mine shows it starting halfway though.

View: https://youtu.be/ndqxOMj9KG8

what 2 front rubber mounts.....can you be more specific? front of what/where?

camera moving alot (tough when you do not have a 3rd hand...I know) looks like not engaging the shifter drum. can't exactly see from the video...too much movement and re focusing.

Looks fine to me remember without the case in situe the theres nothing putting tension on the spring or holding the shaft in place.

true there is nothing putting tension on the spring but that tension just causes the shifter to return to the middle. did not look to be moving the shift drum.

however sometimes a non running motor can be tough to get the drum and forks to move when shifting like that by hand. a little roation on the output shaft to simulate running can help it "click" to next gear/neutral.

Joe

Thanks guys. When I put the cover on was when I realized it was messed up as I couldn't get a click up nor down. I tried rolling the bike as well. Will try again this friday.

Joe, the rubber sandwich mounts with studs on them for the exhaust. There's 3 of them. I have the larger, rear onone near the muffler, but not the front 2. Halls of Chicago (I think) said they were discontinued.

These rubber mounts. I got 3 of the rears. For spares and in case I could make them fit the front.

Tony, no doubt your drum and maybe the forks are stuck, maybe even the spring behind the clutch may be broken or missing.

Rotate the rear wheel when you do that, while holding the camera and the light (haha)..but seriously, my 400 LC had sat, condensation had snuck in and gummed things up a bit...luckily only a bit.

The drum on mine was stuck until I took the clutch off and rotated the drum using the bolt (delicately!!) and that started to loosen it up, mine had been sitting for a long time. If it doesn't loosen up, of course it won't shift, soak it until it does or split the cases if that doesn't work. And neutral is a bit hard to find until the drum is entirely free enough to shift...and even then.

Holding the pliers like you did on the slot is fine to make the shifter work, all it has to do is drive the forks to and fro across the shift drum...which it shows in the video. Just pushing it towards the engine will hold it into the axle hole.

What doesn't show in the video is the fork bumping across and rotating the shift drum. Also in my experience, the shift drum was stuck and so was the anchor for the fork above it, that it was not bouncing INTO and even trying to catch the rods in the shift drum.

so...Tony,

1. Take the clutch cover and clutch off (c'mon you/I/we need the practice, heh). Is the spring behind the clutch and above the shift drum intact?

2. Make sure the drum wants to rotate freely, work it until it does..if it doesn't rotate freely (rotating the rear wheel while doing so remember) soak the trans with maybe diesel overnight.
Do that anyway, the oil looks funky like water was in there, some condensation would certainly freeze the drum...just like mine was. Clean clean clean.

3. Rotate the drum by hand/wrench carefully until it is freed up.
Work the Y-piece above the drum to make sure it is free, (mine was stuck, the axle to the left was gummed.) as well as the shift fork below the drum. Make sure the shift forks are free to rotate into the drum detents between the rods in the drum and engage it, that is what rotates the drum..and it doesn't look in the video that they even try to hook the drum rods and rotate the drum.

4. Rotate the rear wheel while trying to get it to shift..especially as things are slightly stuck. They will loosen up...and eventually you will get all the gears, even neutral...but if anything is sticky, it will not shift...maybe with the engine running, but that is reckless...or maybe even a wreck.

5. Once the shift drum shifts using a wrench on the shift drum bolt..delicately or you will loosen it or shear it off!!...only then try the pliers again...everything loose and working?...then put the clutch back on.

6. With the clutch on, it still shifts?...Does the clutch work after all your previous efforts?... Then put the cover, with gasket, no gasket cement..(you/we/I need the practice, heh)...still shifts? keep working it...always rotating the rear wheel while trying to shift.

7. When it is shifting reliably and the clutch is working...then finally you can put the cover on with the gasket cement, or like someone suggested here, grease instead so you can remove the cover without breaking the gasket....it worked for me, not a drop...then again it wasn't running and getting hot to melt it out yet, haha...

see my pictures here for what it looks like without the clutch..
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/86...n-help-needed-initial-evaluation.82367/page-3 in comment #41

Both the forks below the drum and the Y-piece above the drum need to be able to click into the drum and grab or block the rods. You should be able to verify shifting like you did, without the clutch and cover on, just like you did with the pliers but (have I said it enough?) rotating the rear tire to get things spinning and vibrating inside the trans.

Now before you start, reread these steps again.. and good luck mate!

(looks like I git carried away again...)(feel free to ignore all this advice too.)(heh.)

thanks for the awesome response! my answer are below in red. again much appreciated

some good news. i found out the other day that i can register this bike here in new hampshire as an antique which is a one time 50 offroad registration which is good for life!

these

The circlip needs to be rotated sharp edge facing out, the drum takes quite a bit of force to rotate due to the detent ball/spring and the movement of the dogs in the gear box but is alot easier with the bike running and the lever connected, make sure you position the clutch case pin between the legs of the return spring when fitting the case, this may require push the selector backward towards the rear engine mount.