1984 WR400 help

Old enduro trick down here , silastic everything then nothing falls off until you want it to.

thanks guys. i was planning to use blue loctite this time as i have plenty laying around

why does this seem weird? no washer belongs here that i know of....
the nut bottoms out on the threads and the wheel is still loose. i imagine i need to tighten the 2 sets of 4 small bolts first?

no washer evidence since the thread manuals dont work anymore. (i have them saved but im at work) : http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk....TRS0&_nkw=1984 husqvarna front axle&_sacat=0

you can avoid all the brake stuff by just lifting the wheel away and up and turning the fork slider and brake plate away allowing the brake plate to come out of the hub and the wheel can be taken out.
The tube in the clamps is set so when you do up the axle nut and tighten the clamp, the wheel is centred and the forks are vertical below the triple clamps, not pinched in at the axle.

thanks guys!

should have that all set and hopefully finally ride it again this weekend....
ive been really busy with rebuilding a blown jet ski motor and started a new job yesterday. ill get there though!

I just completed a quick freshen up of a twin shocker 400 that was in a shed for 6 years. its a snappy one and rotates around the axle way too easy. its an ex team race bike and suspect its had some upgrading internally. taking it out for a good ride tomorrow to see if its holding up.

we are holding our breath on the condition of the engine as its to be the subject of a full resto late next year when the owner finishes his new house build (=shed). it has great compression, mains are solid so fingers crossed on rod and piston state. sounds good and tight when running.

interestingly it was breaking down mid to top end and I just lifted the clip one notch and it cleaned right up. it has cr forks for some reason but who cares!

we replaced steering stem bearings, all cables, cut down the 36 inch bars, new grips, air filter and removed the flywheel and cleaned up a heap of rust on the magnets, pole etc. pulled the swing arm pivot but it was well greased. adjusted the clutch and serviced the forks, brake pivots etc. after clearing the fuel tap blockage, it took 3 kicks to light up.

after the owner took it for a spin he had a grin a mile wide and was babbling like torture victim with the alligator clips attached.

hey guys, long time no talk!

all the things a did previously in this thread were great and thanks for all the help! however nothing really ever fixed the issue (loss of power in every gear after about the middle of the power band).

i did find that one of the carb boot bolts (between carb and reeds) was pretty loose. i disassembled carb and reeds and all seems well now (havent tested yet)
before i did this, i removed the head. everthing looks good aside from one ding in middle of the piston. i sanded it out for now.

***im wondering if this head gasket is reusable, if not, where to buy it (hall's?), and if so, do i need to coat it with anything. it looks like there was some clear silicone on it from the previous install.

I would just clean the top of the cylinder and mating surface on the head and replace the gasket. It has already been compressed and will not seat properly if you try to reuse it. Why risk a leak rebuilding a topend?

you have to replace the gasket otherwise green stuff will go everywhere. phil at husqvarnaparts has em. looks like something got in to the engine to ping that hole in the slug...usually a ring breaks or a piece of piston skirt cracks off but you usually see a hundred ping marks...this one looks like it stopped the show in 1 go. i wonder what it was?

agreed, its weird. and no dent in the head/dome. i will try to find a new gasket. 2 head nuts came off, but the other 2 pulled the studs out with them. i was planning to just reinstall it like it were a bolt....? any torque specs for the head? and no coating on the gasket (im used to jet skis)

looks like the gasket i need is 16-14-577-01

ive got two long bolts as well. i use a little oil under the head washers to avoid bind and just do them back up or free the nuts off them and reinstall them. there is a torque setting...cyl nuts..25 and cyl bolts 22...so you can do the head nuts up and the bolts should be fine and yes those numbers are foot pounds...

awesome, thank u! and is it just regular green car antifreeze?

thats all i use but change it regularly..

use distilled water only if you mix it. gold (g05) coolant works as well and holds up well too.

okay. it has green in it now so ill probably just top it off once assembled.

is that pistons 82.42 stock bore?
i see hone marks on the bore so im guessing it was rebuilt. any opinions on pistons and cylinder condition. in my mind it seems like it mustve been rebuilt not that long (of run time) ago. im hoping crank seals were done too. do they typically go bad? i know in the old kawasaki jet skis they typically need them now if they havent had them done yet since they are nearly 30 years old.

what should compression be on these motors? since ill test when back together.

Make sure your coolant is silica free. The silica eats the cases up if left in a long time.

around 160 psi kicking with the throttle wide open until the gauge quits climbing.

maate..be very careful starting it if your not sure of the case seals condition. if they let go you could have a runaway engine so ensure the kill switch works... the seals are known to fail (ol mate did 3 top ends before he realised the seals were letting in air under heavy load) you can pressure test the motor, search on here so you can get some confidence. i recommend replacing the flywheel side (can be done from outside) and if the gbox side dies, the smoke trail is a good indication... 82.5 is std according to the tech specs sheet ive got.