1984 WR400 help

But somebody said there was a trick to replacing it without splitting the cases.... with a hacksaw blade...

But anyways, I think I may be in luck. Those 4 flatheads were loose. I tightened them and haven't got it to leak yet. Still trying

Do these 4 bolts have to come out the get the wheel off??

Nevermind that was a dumb question


However, my pads seem to have near 100% life left. They don't work well though, and my adjuster at the lever is all the way out....



And while we are on the adjuster topic, so is my clutch adjuster

Here's the other end of the brake and clutch adjusters

Brake cable looks broken, but it shouldn't matter since it's in tension when pulled??



Clutch adjuster

Andy at HVA-Factory had these special kits made up that add a seal behind the sprocket. Should solve your leak without disassembly as long as the bearing is good.

http://hva-factory.com/bottom-end-g...g-flange-and-splined-spacer-seal-replaces-161

Sweet!!!

looks like the poor magura perch is getting stripped out from the adjuster being run so far out. the clutch needs adjusted properly inside the basket then set at the lever. makes a good difference in pull as well. its up to you if you want to look that up here.
your last picture does not show any adjuster. the clutch pushrod in the center of the basket is adjustable, and is the primary setting. the adjustment at the lever is just secondary, and helps with cable stretch.
all your issues have come up many previous times here at the cafe.

as for the brake cable, yours is broken and looks like someone did you a solid and welded the cable to the cable holder..the cable never works quite right being broken there due to flex.there are ways to make the husky DLS brake work well through prep and adjustment

Last set of pics.
I took the exhaust off. 2 of the 3 rubber sandwich mounts are broken. I bought the one in my hand on ebay, it's a harley gas tank mount. Looks too thick. Sigh



2 dents in the chamber. Not my issue?

Inside cylinder from exhaust

Thanks for the responses guys. Keep em coming.

I'll do some research in the next few days.

But since I threw out so many posts, I'll summarize in a short to do list

1. Change timing from 22 to 15. (Next week when I have puller)
2. Buy sprocket leak kit posted above even though I'm not sure I need it.
3. Still unsure how brakes didn't work well, but I'll throw yhe new pads in anyways since the wheel is off. New cable?
4. Try to find exhaust sandwich mounts. Fix dents? RTV at cylinder upon reassembly.
5. Test drive before the snow!!

Honda can supply the smaller rubber mounts if you cant get any from Phil at husqvarnaparts. I think the cbr 900 has a couple holding stuff up the back of the bike. my local shop looked em up.

the brakes can be sorted by looking at the dls arcing thread. otherwise completely strip the brakes, clean and grease the pivot pins with waterproof belray grease and set the connecting rod up so that both cams are at zero actuation when its reassembled . you can use a #180 paper to sand the drum and the shoes to scuff them up a bit. when reassembling the wheel, make sure you don't pinch the forks into the wheel when you do up the axle. also just as you are about to nip up the axle, spin the wheel backwards and pull the brake on. then do the axle nut up before letting go the brake. this is as good as you can get before arcing the drum with wet and dry.
some times it is hard to get a good seating of the brakes

enjoy

Oh ya and this guy is broken open but I don't think it matters unless I'm sitting in a 3 foot puddle

wow, this stinks!! the shipping is more than the part. this bring the total for this part from $75 US to $133


QtyProductsPrice

1×

Husqvarna Special HVA-Factory Sealing Flange and Splined Spacer with seal replaces 161177801 & 161235301

£41.67

Subtotal £41.67

Payment summary
Order total preview:
Subtotal: £41.67
Delivery: £45.00
Insurance: £1.50
Order total: £88.17

so what is the correct oil level for this bike exactly? no dipstick clearly

Looks to require a new piston ring, those rubber mounts always fail, you can extend the clutch arm rod and raise it by cutting and welding in a 20 mm section to give a straighter line for the cable and gives a more controlled range/easier pull.the replaceable seal on the clutch bearing is probably ok but you may have oil migrating between the output shaft and the bearing internal carrier either way woulnt worry about it as long as the bearing is good.
The carbon build up on the ring and below it suggests worn ring and your lack of power.

can just use the liquid cooled clutch arm for quick swap, makes a good improvement and has the "z" shape. wont help his misadjustment however.
the wear pattern on the intake side of his piston doesnt look very good, thats for sure.

Best advise at this stage wojld be to take the cylinder to a machine shop have them check and lightly hone ready for new piston ring the piston itself looks good but that ring is shot the vertical marks look to be light rubbing but the machine shop will advise you as to the condition of the cylinder and whether or not it requires boring and new piston.
Cables can be made to suit with the correct parts and a bit of know how, i make my own your local motorbike shop should have the parts.

andy has great parts...thing is, you have to make a "bulk purchase" in order to make the shipping cost reasonable. tough for someone only wanting a few things but thats how it is.