1986 Husqvarna 510TX Build

Thanks Kelly. Yes this one is destined for the desert and all of our old stomping grounds of the past. Husky Monument for one.

Day 21

No time for build today- customer graphics were priority after long holiday weekend.

I did manage to scratch off one item off the build list.
Having found some OEM foam (another story in itself) that supports the fuel tank off the frame back bone I needed a way to secure it so it would not move.
I found some Ace Hardware contact cement from previous project that did the trick- coated both the frame and foam, waiting twenty minute to become really tacky then positioned and ziptie'd it till dry. Ties will be removed to prevent chaffing on the underside of tank.

That puppy is going nowhere -

Day 24

Today's project involved installing a new seat cover.
Below is a photo essay on the the procedure- no description but the photos will speak for themselves.

continued...

Last one. Gluing the edges.

mate, this is got to be one of the nicest vintage bikes ive seen... colours are minted and bike is looking awsome, better than new ! just dont sell the damn thing again ! awsome work.. detail looks excellent !

Thanks rabskyline.
You bet I'm not ever gonna sell this one again. I had seller's remorse for 15 years!
I searched 5 years for another '86 510TX but never found one in decent shape.

Here is the last seat photo. I added the finishing touch with the proper sized and position white side "gunsite" logos that was used on the seat for that year and model.

HWY,
Your photo ability is fab. I'm jealous. Wish I had the talent/equipment. Really adds to the documentation of your rebuild.
Seat cover install looks great! Wish I had a black seat base. Looks clean.
Rick

Nope, no worries at all.
The graphics are thin premium cast vinyl with cast laminate. This type of vinyl material is especially manufactured for adhesion to vinyl. The adhesive in 2 mils thick and activated with heat for self bonding. Once activated you'd be hard pressed to remove it cleanly. It conforms to compression and return to original shape.
Really expensive per roll. I purchase rolls in 30" x 150 feet for pop-up canopy (EZ ups) and RV work.

The other method is a stencil and using vinyl paint but this method gives a cleaner look and last much longer.

Day 26

Since it has been raining today I decided on projects that I had been putting off.

Started the beast up after two months of work.
I made sure everything was buttoned up and filled the crankcase with 59 ounces of 10-40wt.
I poured 1/2 gal of fuel in the tank and immediately noticed a problem. Fuel was dripping from the petcock where it attaches to the bottom of the fuel tank. Tried tightening the screws to no avail, still dripping.

Solution was to remove tank, drain fuel and install a new o-ring in petcock where it meets the tank.

Re-fill with fuel and no drip - that's good. I turn the petcock on and low and behold a new leak at the tap where on / off is.
Again, remove and drain tank. I disassembled the petcock and reassembled the petcock four times before I had the right sequence of rubber ring, two different sized nylon o-ring, spring washer, tap handle and outer plate. I wish the service / part manual had the exploded parts view of this item, it does not.

Re-installed tank, adding high octane again, turn petcock on (all's good with no leaks), choke on, bring to TDC then slightly past TDC, HAND OFF THROTTLE / NO GAS - and kick it hard....nada. Repeat the "drill" and BOOM...it lights up on the second kick, wa yoo!!

She's smoking like a cigar convention in a Vegas casino. All the new paint was curing on the head and pipes and slowly the smoke dissipated after about 5 minutes. I heat cycled the motor 4 times with twenty minute cool time periods. Checked the valves after and readjusted the exhaust valves - intake was fine.

Ok, now I click her into gear and slowly let out the clutch. Nothing... did I install the clutch plates wrong???
I shut the bike off and looked closely at the new stainless clutch cable...when I disconnected the cable the clutch would engage - I received / bought the wrong cable. 1/4" to short. That 1/4" inch made the difference on whether I had enough slack in the cable's adjustment.
Installed the old cable and worked perfect.

On to the front brake bleeding.
The master cylinder, brake pads, caliper re-seal and stainless brake line were all new.
I got all the parts at the ready - vacuum bleeder connected and open end wrench on bleed nipple.
Slowly poured DOT3 in reservoir till full, began vacuum bleeding while adding more oil as the level dropped, I added more, and more, and more, and more.....jeez I went through 8 oz and still nothing...no leaks anywhere. What gives, I thought. Turns out the I had not fully tightened the cable at the reservoir and most of the oil was caught by a diaper I wrapped around the master cylinder to catch any accident. It worked so good that I did not notice the oil was being absorbed by the diaper quite nicely.
Tightened cable and immediately got pressure on the lever. Six more vacuum pulls and I was ready to button it up.

The photo below is the front wheel with the tools needed. I highly recommend the bleeder tool from Harbor Freight for a painless task of brake bleeding.

To be continued (almost done)....

truly jealous.. that seat looks like a piece of class all of its own ! blue, black piping, the "H" .. excellent.. the best looking chainsaw ive ever seen !

ps, on glueing edges.. i contact adhesive'd mine( real word ?) and left them 10 mins.. made it a lot easier to hold and staple...as did the hot hairdryer ! ..

A teaser photo....98% done with build. Just a few remaining bits to adjust and install. The photo at right was taken about 1998-99.

I remained true to the Swedish mount and used as many OEM parts as I could find. Was not cheap!
The only non OEM parts are the tires, cables, grips, seat cover, and my repro graphics.

I've not tallied up the receipts but it would appear about 2 grand to bring it this far including the price of the 510 re-bought from friend.

A true work of art, cant wait to see some action pics

Day 33

More tidbits added to otherwise completed project.

One of the hardest parts to find for this resurrection, besides a new fuel cell, was a new Acerbis front fender extender. I never found a new one so I re-used the original OEM unit that was offered as an option to the '86 TX model. I was apprehensive about drilling holes in my new $65 front fender but I did it anyway.
This time however instead of the plastic rivets, (always came loose and never tightened well) I used 3/16" aluminum rivets with backing plates for a super tight bond. I will have to drill them out to be removed but I hadn't the need in past years. The added benefit was the clean factory look.

I also added the second front brake cable guide that I never knew existed. Evidently, on the TX and TC model front number plates there is a factory punch-out on the number plate that I never noticed till I re-did the graphics and pulled the all ones off. I did have to disconnect the front hydraulic cable to install and re-bleed the front brake again, no problem.

As you may recall in my previous post that I had bought/received the wrong clutch cable. My search party of one (me) found a brand new Motion Pro cable, long discontinued by Motion Pro. Installed and clutch is 100% now. I'm send the old cable off to Speigler's Performance parts for a proper built stainless cable. By the way, Motion Pro will also built custom cables but my experience is that Speigler's is top level quality and fast turn-around.

The last item for today are these neat little black plastic covers to hide the exposed axle clamp bolts. I found these at McMaster-Carr.

It's great to see my old Hooska came back from the brink of no return, restoration wise.

This old lady and me have shared numerous adventures from the Barstow to Vegas, dozens of District 37 Hare and Hounds, Baja and just plain old fun cow-trailing. I'm getting real itchy to take it out again. First ride will be Husky Monument in the Ca desert, as shown in the last photo. That's me on the far right in my KTM get-up.

So very very coooooool. Your project looks fantastic!

Like you, I hate drilling holes in plastic parts. One mistake and its there forever or new peice.

Fender came out great. Neat unobtainable extender - my old 85 had a blue one. Wish I still had it.

Thanks.
Those guide are original OEM that came with the bike and really hard to find new.
Luckily they are hard plastic or nylon and clean up well unlike polyethylene plastic. I used Lyson toilet cleaner (the new and improved version with bleach) and soaked them for a day - came out nice and clean.

Yes, you can find those at fleabay and try to clean them up otherwise you're in a perpetual search for these new.

It may be worth it to cast some repro's of the guide, thinking cap working.....hummm