1987 430 barn find. Need some help.

Justin and troy, by tab you mean the pawl that engages the wheel to turn the engine over right? I think thats what your talking about. I will order extra thanks for the heads up. And your right suprize, I dont lol, just and adrenaline junky. Arnt we all? I did get a new spring also. I usually go overboard on parts and replace them even if not needed since im in there. costly habit. @premo, what do you mean transfer ports? Is that the intake ports after cadge? Im very interested...

YEA THE PAWL KEEP A SPARE AND THE LITTLE SPRING UNDER IT NOT A PROBLEM WITH 250s BUT BIG FEET AND BIG PISTONS WILL START TRASHING THE PAWL

The transfer ports are to ones that go from the crank area up and into the cylinder, very sloppy castings stock
Knife edge means making the bottom look like a sharp knife to reduce turbulence
Did it on an XC430, wow what a difference, no loss of bottom power mid and up was a huge improvement

Ok got some extra pawls and springs in the mail. I have 2 rear single shock. The one on this bike that looks fairly well, I also have an 85 xc 500 Im doing a complete resto on. Im trying to decide how far to go on the shocks? The one in these pics is off my 86. I think it needs a complete overhaul. The one on the 430 maybe charged and new seals. Anyone know a shop that knows these vintage shocks? I have a shop that says they can do them but they have never done any older husky stuff, Im a tad Leary.

In part, that depends on where you're at. Ohlins are still a thing, so you can look up certified shops on their site. KFG racing in Auburn, WA did a good job on my last rebuild ('85 and '86 monos). If they're Ohlins approved, I'm not sure I'd worry too much about Husky-specific experience. An Ohlins shop probably won't touch your i-links though (4th picture). Just go pick up some good quality 20X26X12 roller bearings and press them in at home (unless you can find 20X26X24 roller bearings, I had no luck with that though). If you don't have a good press, an inexpensive arbor press to do bearing work. Also, Ohlins shop might not look too closely at the universal bearings in the ends of the shock, so you may need to pick those up from a husky-specific site, and press them in yourself, or ask the shock shop to do it.

looks like the bump is missing on the shaft and the spring is way past range if the sag works for you in your gear
most old school Husky shops can do these too, as in an early shop,, and more specific the tech was around back then

Check out Drew Smith's website http://www.werproducts.net/

• W.E.R. can service all vintage Front Forks.
• W.E.R. can rebuild all OHLINS twin shock or single shock for vintage applications.
• Large inventory of Ohlins Twin shock and single shock parts for vintage applications.
• Custom tuning.
• Fast turnaround (parts in stock)

if you are going to ride it at all, definitely get a full service on the shocks. many shops can do them, and WER is a good option too.
ohlins are some of the best money can buy, so appreciate them! they ride awesome when sprung correctly for your weight

Just had mine done by WER.

Thanks Eric, I have ordered all the new bearings and talked to a machinist friend of mine who is going to help me with that part. Looks like I will be calling WER tomorrow. I did see online that ohlins will do them themselves. but after reading all the good feedback about WER, I think im going to give them the job, I have 2 to do. Thank guys I really appreciate all the feedback and info Ive been getting.

well sunday may not be the best day to call but drew will talk over options for rebuild. i had my 360 done by him, only a few days for turnaround, for forks and shock

O yes its Saturday, I work tomorrow so I am off a bit, Usually have it off.

Ok, so i got all my parts now. I found a few things of concern while cleaning to reassemble. the kick starter shaft is a little scared. I am going to clean it up with some 600/ 800 paper the polish on my wheel, What are some thoughts on that vs replacing. It does not spin constantly so im thinking this should work. Behind the kick starter gear there is no washer, It just rides against the case which is very rough. Was this factory? Am i missing something? I tried to look up some fisch, but could not find a factory washer, It just seems weird to me???

that looks rough but it's a support for rotational and longitudinal loading as you kick so pretty doesn't count
I would advise to remove the shaft from the cover and insert into center case, look for wear and also very important,, gear alignment

popped off on me while doing the clutch, not sure were it went, this was my best guess Look correct to you guys? I did find it on husqvarna outlet fisch but it shows the prongs open witch will do nothing at all.

wow, that case is chewed up. the idler behind the kicker always spins, anytime the engine runs. the starter shaft doesnt look as bad since where the idler runs looks ok. i wonder if the shaft is bitched up from someone holding it with a tool or something?

2premo you mean remove the kick starter shaft, undo the springs, put on the bearing and gear inserted into the center case and check alignment? Justintendo You are saying the wheel behind the kicker, The one thats on the kick start shaft that the pawl engages always spins?

yes I would assemble in the center case check for play and alignment, it does look a little rough but could work

21/4 inside diameter on this carb intake side, Anyone have an idea if its a 38 or 40? the shaft that goes through the center of the clutch assembly has a washer with a groove cut out, this rides on the inside of the basket case cover. There is a whole on the cover is there some type of pin or screw that aligns them. I am not sure if i have something missing or they serve some other purpose. Also the rod just free floats after inserted through the clutch assembly and into the case. Is this right? As far as that kicker shaft I think I may just get a new one so not to have issues down the road.

the bore of the carb is measured at the smaller end, your second pic. very likely its a 38mm, as the 40mm only came on some 500 bikes.

idler gear will always turn, yes, as its teeth engage with the clutch basket...and that is always turning. watch the kick lever operate, the pawl flicks out and engages the slots milled in that idler gear and turns the engine over. it then retracts and the idler gear spins whenever the engine runs.
need to study the workshop manual, or download one. the things you describe about the clutch rod are how its adjusted, basically. an allen key or rod is inserted while adjusting the length of the rod. critical adjustment to have a nice clutch in a swede.