1987 500XC Rebuild

I believe the forks are 1990-1991 as they where put on when up-tite built the motor and that was 11-1991.

Truthfully though if you have the WP Extreme 50's stay with them especially if you're a woods rider. It's one of the best forks ever made for woods. If you ride more motocross the WP 40/54 may suit you better as it has zero flex but with a different shim stack and valving the Extreme 50 can be good as well.

And I've never been a big fan of Showa or Kayaba but I'm more of a european bike rider so I'm biased I suppose haha.

Hey, sounds great. Yeah, I was just curious. I was presuming they were early 90's WP's, and despite the early USD forks reputations, I was thinking these days they could probably be dialed in.

For versatility, I've read a ton of good input on each of the conventional forks I have on hand. Some swear by either one. I've sure read some great things about each being able to be set up ultra plush. Which sounds great. I have alot to learn, as I've been out of riding for many years. Should be alot of fun though, since I now have Husqvarna's. Which have always been one of my dream bikes.

Nothing wrong with being European biased. I always drooled over the european bikes back in the 80's. Would stare at every one I saw, thinking how trick they looked, despite my roots being in jap bikes.

The WP50's I've got, need to be gone through, but the Showa's I picked up were done by Pro-Action and have some special valve body or some such mod. I haven't put them on a bike yet, but oh man do they feel plush. Can't wait to feel them on a bike.

Your bikes rebuild is really inspiring to me. I'm following closely, as I can't wait to see the progress and end result. Plus, it's motivating me, to push more, through some injuries and get to work on mine.

I'm glad you're enjoying this. I'm thouroughly enjoying it as well. It's so interesting to me to work a bike from the true open class monsters era and seeing all the little tricks that where done back then by my father is even more enjoyable. It's funny, I have a picture of me sitting on this very bike back in the early 90's (was probably 4-5 years old i don't know for sure) and now I'm rebuilding it. And another good thing in a way is it's not being made into a garage queen, it's going to look very nice and be an excellent example but it will be ridden as it's intended to be.

That history part is great as well. Several really cool things going for it. She's a keeper forsure.

Even when these were new, I'd only see these every once in a great while, and for the metro Phoenix area as big as it is, that's saying something. Occassionally I'd see a couple of guys that were obviously into Husqvarna's, riding some of the older dual shockers. I'd see early 80's Maico's nearly twice as frequent. Ofcourse Jap bikes all over, every weekend, and even during the week sometimes.

Anywho, this is a real fun build, of a fantastic bike, all in it's own right. You'll never duplicate the special factors of this bike. So don't ever consider selling it (if you do, get in touch, I'll hold it for ya, while your realizing you shouldn't have). I regret selling alot of things through the years, and this bike is over the top, with the family history as part of it.

What's next, roughly????

Oh, and how did your fathers size/weight back then, compare to where your at now? Springs gonna be ballpark?

Oh this bike will never be sold in my hands. Too valuble and has centimental value as well.

He was and still is 6' 3" and around 200Lbs. I'm 6' 1" and 180. So the springs are pretty close. I'll have to re-set rear sag most likely but all his adjustments will be a good starting point for me.

As far as what's next it'll be putting the shock back together, pressing in new swing arm bearings, and then putting the back half of the bike back together. I'd really like a good set of wheels, the rear rim has one of the biggest bends I've ever seen in it and the front rim was slammed and has two cracks around the spoke holes. I don't want a used Nordisk because who knows it may have rim rot or be bent or have a cracked hub and I also don't want to have buchanan's make me some for the high price of upwards of a grand. So that's an issue for me as of now. A new set of Gold Buchanan's wheels would look awesome on the bike though haha.

87'
Post up a "how to" thread w/ pics on the single shock rebuild. There are many on the forum who could use a step by step rebuild guide.
Just a thought.
Oh, bike looks very cool too.
Rick

Was actually thinking of making it a side job for me for people who need help. 100 for a rebuild with you supplying the rebuild kit and shock oil.

Agreed, a shock rebuild how to, would be helpful. As well as offering service to others, not so DIY.

Another thing that I was curious about on this bike, is how much time your father had on the bike, with the modded engine? I've read some issues about the 500 bottom end bearings, as though they are barely up to the task. Thought I'd ready something like that they are the same size as the 250 ones. Sorry for such a newb question, I just don't want to play expert, on things where I'm not. Also, I'm so interested in the mods your dads bike has, that I'm curious if it had some good hours on it, in modded form, and if the durability was compromised by the mods. I'd think perhaps they would be, but to what degree, I donno.

I've got several cylinders on hand, so I'm even thinking I could have one max overbore sized, and perhaps even Nikasil coated, for some longer life, before having to sleeve and bring back up to spec.

I'm going to have two motors for my bike, so I suppose I could always still have one max effort, and one much more durable build. I'll base that on your input, and others in the know more than I.

Not a newb question, it's a very honest one. The bike was bought new in 1987 by him and raced until 1991. November of 1991 all of the motor work was done along with the WP front end (which I got more information on, supposedly it's the fully adjustable ones and not the ones that came on the stock husky's and it came with CNC machined triple clamps which was also not the norm) but anyways, the bike continued to be raced on the new built motor from the 1992 season to the end of 1996 season and then was put away as he got a 1996 KTM 360MXC and then sold that and got a 2001 KTM 380EXC which he still rides (something is in common here, all big bore two strokes haha, he's been riding open class since the '70s when he bought a Husky 390) The 500 hasn't been ridden since '96.

Now I don't know much about the bottom end bearings and them not being up to the task or anything but he raced this bike extremely hard. Motor has always run Bel ray H1R Synthetic 2stroke oil. I know the cases where split once as it has 250WR cases and I'm assuming he did a bottom end rebuild just because it was all apart but I'm not sure.

Updates on the bike, found new cracks in the swingarm and had those welded up, just recieved a 14mm / 1.5" rear shock bump stop from factory connection. Next step is to remove the shim stack from the shock shaft, install the bumper then re-assemble the shock.

Will be ordering some swing arm bushings from phillip @ husqvarna-parts.com as I'm installing new swingarm bearings. Once I recieve those it's time to re-assemble the rear of the bike and set my suspension sag. Then onto the front to change the fork oil.

Oh, and I'll be needed two rims that aren't bent or cracked. Hopefully I can get a good set of original Nordisks but if not I'll be ordering a set of excel wheels and having Buchanan's make me a set of spokes.

All great info. Forks sound even better. I spot new Excel rims occasionally on the cheap, on ebay. I'll likely go that direction as well, for both my bikes, in the not to distant future. Kinda like the brighter gold of the Excel's to. May go blue or black on one bike though. Cross that bridge when I get there.

If I where to get excels I'd probably go silver. The gold is cool and all but the bike is so far from stock I changed my mind about having to have gold. The only reason I'm looking for Nordisk's is to one save money and two have an extra hub and spoke set as the 500 likes to destroy rear hubs. It either cracks them or destroys the wheel bearing bore so it gets all loose and floppy. I don't know if all the 500's had this issue, maybe it's the power of this bike due to the motor work. I don't know to be honest, but as far as my father told me it eats itself. Snaps motor mount bolts, cracks swingarms, cracks the frame itself (he made up some gussets and welded them on to stop that from happening), it rattled the swingarm bolt loose causing it to wear out the case that the bolt rides through which is one reason why it has 250WR cases. The list goes on and on haha. Once he realized the damage it does to itself he just kept a close eye on everything and the damage stopped where I see it now so he said a word of advice is to do a complete nut and bolt check after each ride, especially if you ride it hard. Now I don't know your riding style but either way now that you know it may be a good idea for you to do the same once you start riding it. I know I'll be doing it.

Interesting. Well, on the rims/hubs, I know they are all over ebay. I've bought a few off there, and have thus far not had an issue, but perhaps you don't want used and color faded on such a primo bike.

I'm not quite riding yet, as the bikes need a bit more work. Its been a long time, so I'm not sure what some injuries are going to allow. I used to be fast on local tracks, and take jumps alot of others were affraid to do. But again, its been a long time, and my body isn't as indestructable as it once was. I've still got a very competitve nature, so I'll be as fast on tracks, and trails, as other things allow.

I generally just pay real close attention to fasteners, etc., at first. And then once I develope a sense of what keeps wanting to come loose, and what doesn't, I base the checks on that. Some things, yes, after every ride. Others, no, perhaps a couple few rides. Depends also on the riding as you touched on (how hard the bike was worked).

I've got my eye on a few ones on ebay right now.

As far as nuts and bolts go a must after every ride is motor mounts, swingarm, subframe, exhaust, and handle bars. But that's being ridden at race pace and doing double and triple jumps with it. It's the only bike I know of that vibrates itself to pieces. My '02 KTM 200EXC never rattles a bolt loose and it gets ridden hard. But anyways, pay closer attention to those but I'm sure you'll keep track.

Sounds good, will do. I forsure will be checking everything for a bit, up front. Wonder if anything could be done for the vibs? Different, or improved balance on the crank any answer?
Lookin forward to my own little arm jerker.

Forgot to also touch on, that it sounds like the engine mods didn't do anything to hurt the reliability.....Which has my interests in them up, even more.....

Dan Smith, who raced this bike in desert racing, did everything he could to calm it down. Balanced crank, blue printed motor (which this bike has) and he even went as far as filling the frame up with expanding foam insulation. It still vibrated. Remember that all they did to make it a 500cc was take the 430 motor and give it more stroke, and that's where the vibration came from. The extra long rod on the same 430 bottom end.

And as far as reliability, remember how over built the 250 bottom end is. I believe it has two bearings on the primary side and one huge bearing on the secondary (or the other way around, I forget) but either way it's way overbuilt so that's why the 500 bottom end is fine even with this much power.

Update on the bike: Took the shock shaft apart, dissasembled the shim stack, replaced the bump stop and re-assembled the shim stack and shock shaft. Waiting on locktite to dry before I re-assemble the shock body and pressurize it with nitrogen.

Update: Finished rebuilding the shock, went smooth. New bump stop instaled, used a showa 14mm shaft size by 1.5" tall

Swingarm is all welded up and needle bearings installed

Waiting on a set of front and rear nordisk assemblies

Just ordered wheel bearings and swing arm bushings

New airfilter installed

Exhaust silencer O-ring installed

Got a Gold RK chain

Test fitted a Devol front disc guard for a KTM 200EXC. Axle hole is too big so I need to reduce the ID somehow

Wow Over the top nice. All the bells and whistles lol.

On the disc guard, perhaps simply tack-welding on a similar thickness washer, with the appropriate smaller ID???? Either to the outside, or inside, depending on clearance and appearance.

Hey, what is the other Husky to the left, in the second pic???? Looks like it has your pops same custom/great graphics. I might have to try and duplicate those graphics, or do my own, or somethin..... Thought forsure up front that they were perhaps '89 graphics or somethin. Which just means they have that not overdone/right look.

Thanks again for posting up this info and pics. Love seeing the bike, and,......its perfect timing for me. Since my (current basket case) 500XC build is just a few weeks out. Poor thing was actually a low hour bike to, but somebody hurt the trans, parked it out in the Southern Cal sun/backyard, then somebody bought it simply to steal the shock. Total shame. Seat/plastics were perfect, before the sun damage took place. But, she will be back to better than new condition, after just a bit longer. Have nearly all replacement NOS plastics, and to start with, an ultra low hour '86 500XC engine, as well as the original needing a going through.

Thank you!

As far as the disc guard goes I'll be machining a top hat looking spacer that will reduce to the size that I need inside the guard and then flange out on the left side so it can only go so far in. The flange thickness will also be the thickness of the current spacer I'm using. So in short it will be a custom made wheel spacer for this application only.

The other Husky is his 430 Auto. And yea it has similar graphics as the 500 but alittle different for the rest of the body work. Also on both bikes the vents in the tank shrouds have been made bigger to allow more airflow to the radiators. If you looks closely and compare to a stock shroud you can see the difference. The Auto Needs a clutch and a new piston ring along with new tranny bearings. He's gone through 4 clutches and the tranny is pretty much toast now haha.

Glad to see your project is moving along. You'll have to post up a rebuild thread eventually!