1989 TC 510 B two 'parallel' restorations

Wow you did have fun didn't you, thanks for the pictures. Have my plan of attack sorted for the weekend.

1. Turn up a mandrel on my ancient lathe.
2. Drill a hole across the hollow dowel and put a small stiff bar through, extract the dowel.
3. Been soaking the casing/inserts in penetraing oil most of the week.
4. Put casing in the oven at 200 C.
5. Push out the inserts using the mandrel on a hydraulic press.
6. Measure up for new inserts and clean up the facing surface on the cases.
7. Turn up on lathe.
8. Press into place
9. Take finished casings to the power coaters on the way to work Monday morning.

Well that's the plan, will show you what actually happened when I get to step 9......

Cheers

Throw in a couple of beers somewhere and that sounds like a recipe for a great weekend !

Don't forget it's the first six nations game ! Could he a good (or very bad ) weekend. Vive La France, allez Husky....

Sorry !
France 26: England 24
Champagne !!!

Merde! So bloody close but what a great game. Wish I was at the Stade de France, but never mind out at my local pub 'The Peacock 'was pretty emotional.

Had a bad garage day as well. Followed plan religiously upto point 1. Managed to fill the big house up with oily smoke owing to repeated heating of crankcases. Wife very impressed. Inserts have moved a bit (like 2-3 mm ) but really stuck now. Got hollow dowel out, only highlight of day. Crankcase rear mount procedure was such a disaster, so went onto another easier job. Tried to removed seized mudguard mounting stud in bottom fork yoke. It snapped off, went to pub to watch the rugby. We lost. Pictures attached, of the bike not the rugby. Have decided to take up knitting.

Will try again tomorrow once the hangover has reduced to manageable proportions. Cheered myself up by bidding on yet another lost cause on ebay. Hope I don't win.

DM

I get away with using the (outside) weber bbq with thermometer without too much whingeing from the better half, only snag is the brown patina on alloy from burning old fat.. and I can pull the bit concerned straight out onto the floor and start smashing (and swearing).
I do like it though when you pop the lid , the smoke clears and the bearings have already fallen out!

Rear engine mounts saga ...... over and out. Had a vision delivered from the husky gods during a very disturbed nights sleep

This is how I did it, no heat just careful use of the hacksaw.


Feeling smug, so back to the pub men ! All we now is for France to loose their next game and us to beat the Welsh at Twickers and we get to win the six nations before taking world cup glory.

DM

SUPERJOB, Daftmate........

OK back to more serious stuff, here's the strip report on the yellow framed bike (blue race No 5 on the first pics posted) that forms the other leg of this parallel resto. Both bikes are the same year and model, the white framed one is detailed above and was in a lot better nick than I suspected from outside. This one was a runner and looked to be the better one of the two. The bike has also been on Cafe Husky before when 'Cameron' owned it, and as I said before, very useful to look up the previous work done on it.

Sure it was well meant but loved the rear exhaust mount, true dual purpose.


Frame is needing some repairs, cracks on both bracing plates in same place either side of the headstock (just above the steering stop).


Footrest mount tubes look to be bent backwards especially on one side. Sat it alongside the other frame for comparison.

Theres no mount for the coil behind the headstock, found it bolted to the back of the airbox.

Rest of the bike came apart pretty easy. There is a small crack on the swingarm around the linkage brackets, nothing like as bad as the first bike and not previously repaired. Should be easy to weld up.

Think the biggest issue with the frame is whether to straighten the footrests or not. Will struggle to leave as is, nothing looks worse than droopy footrests, feels bad to ride on as well. Will probably give one of the frame people a call for advice on this one. Have bid on a cheap replacement frame on ebay just in case.

Forks and white power shock has gone off to same place as bike 1 (Reactive suspension). Will put engine strip in next post so I can include pics.

Engine strip, didn't screw up this time and all came apart without damaging anything. Just as well because it has managed to do more than enough of that on its own without any help from me. Noted some differences from first engine:

Roller brearing on gearbox output sthaft, different clutch securing system with half moon washers and clamp nut rather than bush and circlip.



This is how I extracted the primary drive and cam chain sprocket, not elegant but only cost me a tenner for the three leg puller. Jubilee clip round the legs helped a lot and this time protected the shaft end by screwing the nut back on the shaft and putting a socket over the top.


The connecting rod has been replaced but there was a lot of wear in the small end, the gudgeon pin was about four thou down in the wear zone and it was very loose in the piston. Big end feel fine and mains are new. Once the casing were split though found two of the dogs were missing from one of the gears (think it's third). Looking for new pair of gears.



So crank and barrel have gone off to Motosupplies, as per bike 1. Hoping I will not need a new rod on this one, but think piston is due for replacement. Interesting to compare the two casings and internals, cranks are different. Later one is completly circular, early one has cut outs by the big end. One engine has a seal retainer on the drive side crank seal.



Quite good fun doing two at once, apart from really having to store the parts carefully so they don't get mixed up and the potential amounts of cash all this is going to take.

Also just bought another 1999 TC on ebay.......she did'nt take it too badly really.

DM

we have just sent the pommie cricket team home...... they need a teardown and rebuild also

Last weeks ebay biddding has borne fruit, gentlemen here is H4. A 2000 410 TE with a bit of bling and de-enduroed .... also proof that Husqvarna does fit inside BMW (sorry that was last weeks corporate structure). I'll put this one in a different thread in the single cammers sections. Quite like the black livery and monster graphics.

Regardiing progress on the 89's I have received a call from Motosupplies who are doing the important engine bits, will post the outcome later in the week after I've paid them a visit . In the meantime here's the pics of H4 (simply means my 4th husky). I picked it up a long way from home hence the use of the beemer rather than the usual motobanger and trailer .

DM

Engine strip update.

So all the critical engine components have been away to the specialists. Fully stripped and repair budget asssesment made. Motosupplies made a nice job but have decided to take all the stripped parts back just to have a better feel for the options. Cost for the strip clean and inspect was very reasonable, so thanks Paul for your patience I'm sure I'll be back pretty soon.

What made me think again was that I was probably going to end up paying around £1200-1500 for both engines to do 100% job. Plating both cylinders, replacing all valves/pistons and new rod and big end on the early engine. I just picked up a really nice 2000 TE 410 for £620 complete so that made me rethink what I was doing. I can use that engine/bike to get me on the track this summer whilst I sort out the original engines at a slower pace. Besides looks like the suspension overhauls are also going to be very expensive, more on that next time.

Here's the pictures of the stripped engine components, might be useful pics for other cafe husky rebuilders.



Started sourcing some parts, HM racing in UK had valves listed at a very reasonable £25 each, anyone used them ?

Next task on the engines is to get all the casing cleaned and powder coated, can drop them off when I pick up the newly coated frame on the 2000 TE 410. Sorry couln't help myself whilst it was all stripped......

Any sources for cheap engine bits for 89's pls let me know. Have picked up a spare set of 5 speed gears and crankcases (just in case) oh and a swingarm and frame. Well you just never know do you, will be real good at swopping husky bits between years/models by the time I've finished these.

DM

PS Rugby update for my French friends on here: England playing Ireland today, and could go top of the table. So sorry to see the French mess up against the Welsh last night.

Rugby: When you are bad, you loose ! France is on or off.
Pole vault : Have you seen the pole vault world record by Renaud Lavillenie ?

Rugby: guess we won then. Just got mail from reactive suspension both shocks (the Ohilins and WP) are basically u/s, back to the drawing board then. Anybody got any bright ideas how to get these bikes mobile without re-mortgaging the house (again). Guess a later shock plus overhaul maybe cheaper than just going the new replacement route. What later ones still fit the '89 ?

DM

Whats wrong with the shock? Normally you can adapt a seal head to fit, just need to match the shaft size??
We have a guy hear in Brisbane who will do any shock for $150 - 175 A$ . puts his own seal heads in I think.
Shaft hard chrome I+ grind s around $80-100 I think

u/s= unserviceable ?? thats almost impossible but it mite be cheaper to find a replacement

Probably wrong to have said u/s for the Ohlins but the WP seems to be. I hope Gareth (runs reactive suspension) is OK with me posting copies of our correspondence but intend to visit then later this week and make sure its OK. Anyway part of posting all this stuff is to give cafe husky members a typical idea of the costs and rebuild decisons. So here you go, any advice/alternate approach appreciated. I do think spending decnt money is really worthwhile as its make such a difference. Getting the spring rates right on both ends will the starting point. So here goes, like all mail trails start at the bottom and work your way up.


Hi
I’ve had a look at your shocks. I’d severely underestimated just how bad the corrosion was. To get the two Ohlins shocks back to how they should be, you’d be looking at around £550 each.

I’ve got one virtually stripped but there are some parts that have welded themselves together so I had to take it apart a different way. There may be more parts to add to the list but I’d have to take a hacksaw to the body to see if I can rescue them first. The other Ohlins is corroded in the same way so I’m guessing that it will need the same parts.

I played with the WP for ten minutes then abandoned it, I think that one can be written off.
Gareth.
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 1:17 PM
To: Reactive Suspension
Subject: RE: forks and shocks

Many Thanks Gareth for the report,

My initial thoughts are :

1. FORKS - WP 4054 forks . I’m not a light guy, currently around 17 st kitted. I don’t ride that hard anymore but like the front end to sit up, these early huskies were hopeless at holding tight lines so always looked for the outside berm to bounce off to get the damn thing turning. Could maybe live therefore with the existing springs provided they are slightly stiffer than standard not weaker.

Money wise is about what I expected but like everyone have to watch the budget a bit ……and have thought of the following:

1.1 How much is a new set of 4054 ? you mention it on your website.
1.2 May do one set of WP forks only as an ‘original’ ’89 show queen ridden on some Sundays….so could compromise on the ultimate performance provided they cosmetically look the dogs. How much extra would be the fancy gold coating on the stantions that looks great.
1.3 The second bike will be the ‘racer’, not too bothered about originality and will be upgrading some critical bits. Have just bought a complete 2000 husky cheap off ebay with 45 mm USD Marchochi’s they look good nick and would bolt straight on with yokes. Would ask you to give them a service, assuming no major damage how much roughly would that be ?
2. SHOCKS go ahead with the Ohlins, the WP sounds a real pain. Any way to fix up the spare ohlins with the busted bottom mount ? Also love the look of your fancy spring thrust washer to assist spring adjustment so please include those. Guess you will not know the WP repair costs but a days labour is not a good start just for stripping. May be more economic for me to source a serviceable second hand unit ? Ohlins or WP or….appreciate your guidance.

3. I’ll need to bring in the forks and shock (sachs) from my latest purchase for servicing at least. Any day better for you ? we can discuss the above at the same time.

Cheers




From: Reactive Suspension [mailto:info@reactivesuspension.com]
Sent: 19 February 2014 09:45
To:
Subject: Re:forks and shocks

Hi

I’ve stripped the forks, but not tackled the shocks yet. I’ve learned from previous experience that when your stripping old WP shocks you have to set a day aside to do them, unfortunately I’ve not had the time to do that yet.

Looking at the forks, they will need re-chroming, new bushes and seals and some small internal parts. The springs that are in there are stiffer than anything that’s currently available off the shelf. Custom springs could be made if necessary.
As a very rough estimate I would say that to sort the forks out you’d be looking in excess of £800, depending upon how much the internal parts may be, I’m still trying to track down some bits.

Looking at the Ohlins shock I’d say you would be looking at a cost of around £225, to re-plate the body, powder coat the spring and replace the usual service parts, until I get it apart it’s difficult to be more specific than that.
The WP shock I have to get apart first.

All the best,
Gareth.