125-200cc 1997 WR 125?

Want to get it rideable in the next 2 months at least. Will attempt to start it this week after fitting intake manifold hose (on its way) and striping/cleaning the stuck clutch (and that manky gear oil). This will then confirm if I continue, I really want a bike for this season.

It's been victim to many bodge jobs but mechanically seems sound.......that feeling when you drift the swing arm bolt and it slides out.........

So my plan. Paint the purple frame white (why purple!!!). Have the forks and shocks serviced. New piston and check the bore and other odds and ends, new wheel bearings, brake pads etc. and then tidy it up a bit. I could probably do all this on £200-£300?

Don't want to go mad money wise, but willing to spend a bit. The bike didn't cost me much. I am also a believer of 'want something fast, start with something fast in the first place'.

Spending £1000 making it 200cc, just buy a 250??

Spending £300 making it 144/160, worth it.

What are your thoughts? I'm no motor bike expert, automotive trade pays the bills in my house.

Engine area pics. Not too good



Inlet manifold/reed block



Dog poo 50mm pipe, to connect 46mm inlet to 41mm carb. No wonder he said 'the power bands' are broken.....seems to be made from the rubber intake from a car.



This should help clean up the dog poo

the power bands are broken? oh lord...

thats what i said some people just shouldn't....... be yea thats the word i'll use ..be ,i swear it makes me wanta buy a gun

That's not the worst I've heard. There was an ad for a little 50cc 2 stroke enduro, guy rang the owner up and said ''how come you've only fitted a 22mm carb, and not a 28mm?'' oh it's liquid cooled mate. WHAT?? what does cooling have to do with carb diameter?? unless there was some gigantic cooling hose going very very close to the carb

Its just the old style 125 engine- not a bigbore.

Parts for the engine are not the issue- its just not a common bike- i would not invest that much money in this bike...
but you bought it already- so keep us informed how it goes.

Sure, not planning on spending much on it. Just want a tidy bike! As long as it is mechanically sound and goes well - I'm happy!

Anyone have a service manual link for the 95 CR 125? Specifically I'm after gear oil capacity and front fork oil capacity.

Usually fork oil specs are given in mm from top of the fork...
Do you have a oil Level Bolt somewhere on the right hand side engine (clutch cover?)

As long as i remember there wasnt any 125 husky engine wich was unreliable- so just check Main baerings, piston etc and u are fine.

Thanks, I will have a look. I don't recall seeing one, had the clutch out last week. I have found a reference to it being 650ml for the gearbox.

Good news for engine reliability!!

I think the oil capacity on those motors is 950 ml, there was a tech update warning against using only 650 ml.

I rebuilt a 95 wxc125 a couple of years ago. There's a thread here somewhere with some info on it. Many parts are same as later models. The hard parts to find were plastics and a rod kit. Vertex makes pistons. After many months, I found a rod kit at Ben VanErp in the Netherlands. There are rod dimensions in the thread. Halls Husqvarna had a parts manual on line to download. I had no luck finding a service manual, but other than the rod, and top end, much is the same as later models, so even a 2001 service manual can be helpful. I think the 95's had USD forks. That may be a '96. O.8 l gear oil capacity.

I seen your thread, some useful info on there, thanks.

With regards to the rod kit, is there a work around should I encounter a problem in that department? Switching parts from other engines etc?

My frame no. is 1A1*050xxx*. I've had the bike for 2 weeks now, keep thinking I've worked out what model and year it is!

I couldn't figure out any other solution for the rod. There's nothing else like the 95-96 years with the short stroke and the similar rod dimensions. I did find out that the original part number for the rod kit in the parts manual was discontinued and replaced with 8000 67023. Using that number with dealers, may save you some time. I do remember some dealer (in the UK I think) said his supplier was having some more made. I don't remember who that was. If you do need a rod, don't give up searching...they're out there. You'll find one eventually.

Thanks, hopefully I never need one!

Still waiting for my parts to arrive to fit the carb! Itching!.....

So I got the bike started! No problem. After I cleared that mystery up, I stripped it!

Frame is with powder coaters, have some parts in the post, swing arm bearings, 2008 yokes (old ones had been welded!) and parts to service the front and rear shocks.

96 model CR 125 by the look of it Daz.

Is the tenth digit on the VIN plate at the head stem an S? The 96 had a T and the 97 had the newer style engine.

I have an S on mine, it was manufactured 11/95 but was released in 96.

95's had USD Showa forks on them. 96's had the 45mm Marzocci magnums

Unfortunately they cant be 165'd due to the power valve style. Stroking may be the go for increased volume.

Standard Fork oil height is 180 mm with spring out. 525 ml, 10 wt oil
LHS fork is compression,
RHS fork is rebound.

g/box oil, 0.8 lt. I fill mine up until the oil comes out the indicator hole next to the water pump.(Allen key head)

1.2 lt coolant

I have a 95 manual as well if you need some more info Daz. send me a PM

here's a link to the rebuild of my $100 Husky hope it helps.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/100-husky.3513/

Thanks for the helpful info! Will PM you

Regarding my frame number, it looks something like this, HUSQVARNA*1A1*050XXX* (blanked out last 3 digits). It doesn't sound the same as you say it should look? But I am with you on the '96 theory, matches the parts manual.

For this year I'm just going to get it up to a decent standard, nothing too ambitious, then may modify the engine next winter if I get on with it.

I have looked over your thread a few times, bike looks great, what a turn around! Some great info in there too! Cheers