• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st 1999 45mm Zokes, springs

left to right which is top to bottom
i guess this is called mid valve

17mm and .3
20mm and .3
21mm and .3
23mm and .2

valve then

22mm and .1
15mm and .1
23mm and .1
21mm and .1
15mm and .2






IMG_6767.JPG
 
i went to the fische on these they seem to be the correct count
some of the part numbers matched so it makes sense they are probably stock
who knows where t go from here?
 
Typically BIZARRE early 45mm valving! Good start on your part, though. Now, Look carefully at that mid-valve piston and see if you can verify whether there is a tiny ~2mm hole drill sideways through one of the ports. If so, can you size it?
 
of interest is when i took the 2nd leg apart as in removing the bottom valve, the nut that holds the shim pack came free or was free
 
Loose nuts! Hate that! A little blue loctite when it goes back together.

Good job with your measurements. Standard shim thickness is .1, .15, .2, .25, etc. just as you have reported. The only exception that we'd commonly see is that KYB tends to use .11mm thick shims in a lot of their stuff. Marzocchi uses that standards .1, .15...

That 1.5mm hole in the midvalve piston is a bleed hole. No problem there, it just affects how I like to shim the MV and Rebound so it's helpful to know if it's there. Overall, both your compression and rebound stacks seem very light, and that stack of .2 & .3 shims at the midvalve (typical for Marzocchi) is essentially rigid in use and mainly acts as a check plate. No doubt that's hurting you.

So what are your plans? Do you want to buy a bunch of shims as we discussed and try some stack suggestions?
 
i am hoping to soften up the compression and it's possible the one side was not acting correctly with a loose nut and gave me stiction issues due to cross loading
if you have suggestions on where to start i am all ears

60 years young, 220-230 with gear on (should be less, but another day on that) single track mainly, pretty fair amount of rocks to contend with, and the rough forks in the rocks is the complaint
 
Try this:

Compression
Drill base valve piston holes to 3.5mm or 9/64" (not all pistons can go this large, just make sure you don't take out the shim surface around the holes)

22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
22.1
22.1
22.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
12.1 (just keeps the 10.1 from eating into the aluminum)

Reb
22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
22.1
22.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.15

Midvalve
22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
18.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
10.2 (as many as needed/thickness to set float)
15.2
spring

Float 1-1.2mm
Maxima 85/150 fork oil
Air chamber 120mm
 
I did mine at 500rpm on a very cheap home drill press. The material is not that hard to work with, it was a piece of cake, actually. My point is more that you don't want to try to go so large that you drill out the valving surface.
 
Try this:

Compression
Drill base valve piston holes to 3.5mm or 9/64" (not all pistons can go this large, just make sure you don't take out the shim surface around the holes)

22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
22.1
22.1
22.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
12.1 (just keeps the 10.1 from eating into the aluminum)

Reb
22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
22.1
22.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.15

Midvalve
22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
18.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
10.2 (as many as needed/thickness to set float)
15.2
spring

Float 1-1.2mm
Maxima 85/150 fork oil
Air chamber 120mm


when you say to keep the 10mm from eating int the aluminum you mean the shoulder that is 10.922?
 
boy did i feel like a dope, the shims arrived and i opened them in anticipation of putting everything back together
i realized immediately i bought enough for one leg :eek:
well,, ordered the rest, will report soon
 
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