All 2st 1999 45mm Zokes, springs

left to right which is top to bottom
i guess this is called mid valve

17mm and .3
20mm and .3
21mm and .3
23mm and .2

valve then

22mm and .1
15mm and .1
23mm and .1
21mm and .1
15mm and .2

i went to the fische on these they seem to be the correct count
some of the part numbers matched so it makes sense they are probably stock
who knows where t go from here?

Typically BIZARRE early 45mm valving! Good start on your part, though. Now, Look carefully at that mid-valve piston and see if you can verify whether there is a tiny ~2mm hole drill sideways through one of the ports. If so, can you size it?

it measures at 1.5mm

of interest is when i took the 2nd leg apart as in removing the bottom valve, the nut that holds the shim pack came free or was free

Loose nuts! Hate that! A little blue loctite when it goes back together.

Good job with your measurements. Standard shim thickness is .1, .15, .2, .25, etc. just as you have reported. The only exception that we'd commonly see is that KYB tends to use .11mm thick shims in a lot of their stuff. Marzocchi uses that standards .1, .15...

That 1.5mm hole in the midvalve piston is a bleed hole. No problem there, it just affects how I like to shim the MV and Rebound so it's helpful to know if it's there. Overall, both your compression and rebound stacks seem very light, and that stack of .2 & .3 shims at the midvalve (typical for Marzocchi) is essentially rigid in use and mainly acts as a check plate. No doubt that's hurting you.

So what are your plans? Do you want to buy a bunch of shims as we discussed and try some stack suggestions?

i am hoping to soften up the compression and it's possible the one side was not acting correctly with a loose nut and gave me stiction issues due to cross loading
if you have suggestions on where to start i am all ears

60 years young, 220-230 with gear on (should be less, but another day on that) single track mainly, pretty fair amount of rocks to contend with, and the rough forks in the rocks is the complaint

Try this:

Compression
Drill base valve piston holes to 3.5mm or 9/64" (not all pistons can go this large, just make sure you don't take out the shim surface around the holes)

22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
22.1
22.1
22.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
12.1
10.1
12.1 (just keeps the 10.1 from eating into the aluminum)

Reb
22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
22.1
22.1
20.1
18.1
16.1
14.15

Midvalve
22.1 (check ports - if not covered use a 23.1)
22.1
18.1
18.1
16.1
14.1
10.2 (as many as needed/thickness to set float)
15.2
spring

Float 1-1.2mm
Maxima 85/150 fork oil
Air chamber 120mm

where do i get these?
the current float is 1.5 at the mid valve spring thing

Order shims from MX-Tech, Suspension Direct, Race-Tech, etc.

what RPM would you drill that at?

I did mine at 500rpm on a very cheap home drill press. The material is not that hard to work with, it was a piece of cake, actually. My point is more that you don't want to try to go so large that you drill out the valving surface.

the outside dimension of the sealing area is 22.86mm
so i will use the 23mm

when you say to keep the 10mm from eating int the aluminum you mean the shoulder that is 10.922?

yes

what is Maxima 85/150 fork oil?
air chamber is the level below the top?

That's the Maxima 5wt oil many recommend, the good stuff. Interested in how you make out

boy did i feel like a dope, the shims arrived and i opened them in anticipation of putting everything back together
i realized immediately i bought enough for one leg
well,, ordered the rest, will report soon