In the 3rd image of the motor you can see a small cast arm holding the clutch cable, I noticed it was very slightly bent, I tried my best to align it gently but I have managed to brake it off.. I'd had it less than 24 hours.. Anyway I need to add this to the repair list now. Are these side cases pure aluminium or are they magnesium alloy? I basically need to decide if I will weld the lobe back on or should I drill and tap a small plate onto it?
Clean. The rust isn't as bad as I thought it would be under all of the dirt, its actually almost all limited to cosmetic rust.
The cylinder has arrived and looks good post op. Have to say at first glance that the mob in the U.S. did a quaility job. It was a strip, weld, hone/bore, plate and diamond hone for $260 US. Pretty good, Im pretty sure they gave it a sand blast also as the outside even looks brand new cosmetically. The bore pattern looks great and they even tidied the square edge from the ports slightly (to reduce ring snag and wear). I compared the two pistons and you can tell just how much abuse the old one endured before it finally carked it. The Wiseco piston looks nice, I thought it felt light but my mate reckons it was heavy ?
Dunno. I have a 98' YZ250 in the garage. Just looking at the pics it doesn't look like too much would be inter-changeable.
Coming along slowly but making progress none the less. There is currently one of these in the mail on the way to me I’m having the old/new engine related bearings pressed out/in at a Yamaha dealer, hence the hold up Last time I spoke I'd asked to have almost everything done, as said previous but I figured if its split than I'd do the crank bearings and con rod pin etc. Gearbox is in excellent condition, clutch plates are OK but have a bit of evidence of sitting for a while. Fingers crossed ill have the motor back by next week and get her running.
Well she aint pretty, but she's up and running. I went out for about 40 minutes today to test and to put a bit of time on it. I broke it in with a moderate/fast trail riding pace, concentrating on both loading the motor in accel and decel. I avoided high speed and mainly kept in about 2-4 gear. Had a few short squirts of full throttle in higher gears but avoided sustained high revs. I know these things don't like idling but it wont hold steady for more than a few seconds and stalls without some throttle, after another hour or so i might have to adjust the idle up. I think there might be some minor slippage of the clutch under hard load, either this or its dropping back into the previous gear. I will also check the condition of the plug tomorrow if I get a chance. I was also going to upload a video, but our internet is crap and I couldn't be bothered waiting an hour to upload 54 mb..
I've done a bit more to the WR, among other things obviously a deep wash was in order and that's what it got. I don't think the clutch plates are bad after all, all I did was adjusted the tension on the cable and put another 30 minutes on the motor, now it seems to be grabbing and pulling nicely. I guess the slight corrosion on the plates might have produced a bit of slip until it was worn off. This thing has a lot of poke for a 200 now shes all new inside. Its hard to tell what the FMF header did as it wasn't a controlled experiment, it isnt even worn in properly yet. Please excuse all of the crap in the yard by the way. Got on order: side stand, plastics, brake discs and pads and a few other bits and pieces like levers.
The FMF header I put on it is a tad louder than the stock twin walled one (actually much much louder), I imagine if you had the exhaust port on a 2T Lambretta terminating straight to atmosphere it would sound like the WR does now . i.e. : Zingzingzingzing brwooopppppppp brwopppp waaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhAHAAAHHHH!!
Looking good; you can easily repair that tear in the seat cover; just need a little help from a friend or significant other to compress and push it from the top and super glue. If you go that route put a piece of plastic like a bread sack in to cover the foam and stitch it with the glue.
When the bike is moved about without the motor not running I notice a small amount of fuel leaking from the carb overflow line, when the motor is running there is no leak, when the bike is upright and stationary there is no leak. The leak is particularly worse if I lean it over to the right. Not having ever owned a bike with this type of 2T carb is this normal or is my float needle dodgy and not sealing off new fuel from the bowl? The carb has a new pilot and main jet and was dipped and thoroughly cleaned before reassembly. I'm assuming the movement of the fuel in the bowl is enough to drop the float needle just a tad allowing an overflow?? Do I need to adjust the float level? Never had this issue on any of my carb'd 4 strokes.
I also have a new side stand. Has anyone had much experience fitting one onto to the swing arm? There are some nice little holes in it that match up with the bracket on the stand perfectly. Will it be in the way there? Will it likely hit the frame when the suspension is compressed?
Ive been pretty busy lately but will get a chance for a ride on the weekend, but have kicked it over a few times and it is starting first kick every time. It rides so well bar a slightly slipping clutch. Fork seals seem to leak easily but i attribute that to poor workmanship from a previous owner, a good mate but lacking in mechanical finesse. Gotta sort out the leaky carb, thinking ill order a new pin and seal. Ive ordered about $1000 worth more of parts from Partzilla, they have excellent availability of parts but boy, talk about customer service getting lost in a big company! Word of advice, dont ask to change your order or combine shipping.. Cant wait for the new clutch plates and springs.
I know its still a little ugly but its getting there, I realise that im keeping consistent with the little piles of crap in the photos too.. New disks and pads, fork protectors, chain and sprockets, trail tech vapor, fmf tail pipe plus other stuff. It was spotless but fortunately had a chance to make it slightly dirty, only managed a 30 minute blat on a mates property in a clearing but I am having a lot of fun on it.
Removed the foot controls and pegs and cleaned them up with some Septone Rust converter, I haven't used it before but I reckon it is magic. Then I undercoated them, lightly sanded and then painted with some grey/silver gloss enamel. I know it will chip off but it will look better than rust. I'm regretting not painting the frame while the motor was out and the rest of the bike was half disassembled, so I'm at least now starting to patch the cosmetic parts up. I used some rust converter, wet and dry and have applied the first coat to the RH side frame as a test. Its the Yamaha Blue (from Yamaha) but it looks darker and a little purple, but again, will look better than paint chips and rust. Its got a new front tyre and tube and has been balanced. The carb. has also been disassembled again and cleaned the float needle pin+seal to try and stop that bloody leak. The peg on the right didnt have any rust converter applied at first as a test, this was only after 5 mins. Yes, I know I painted the (now) silver gear selector boot, it will be replaced.
I am going to paint the side case when the RH cover is off the motor for the clutch maint, is it OK to reuse the same gasket? It is a new one from when the motor was rebuilt in Feb.
