The gasket should be fine to re-use; an easy masking material for painting frames is to use aluminum foil - I like the heavy duty type and it forms nicely to the components you are trying to keep from being painted.
Thanks, that sounds like a great idea. I like to use old sheets or disposable tablecloths as you can stuff them in gaps, but I will definitely give the foil a go.
A few areas of light over spray but overall I am happy. The over spray is very light and can easily rub it off with only a cloth. I will tidy it up with some turpentine in the next few days. Some of the blue in the photos is actually reflection, not paint so it looks worse than it is. My method; Sanded, de-rusted, sanded, sprayed a light coat, sanded and then re-coated a few times to get the finish. Also attached is the obligatory Pile-o-crap on the bottom left of the first image (the al foil masking that mtdirtbag suggested, it worked well).
Just joined this site because of this thread. Nice work. I have a 1992, its a really fun and respectable middle of the road bike. I really like it. The carb has the same minor leak issue as yours once its turned off. I shut off the petc0ck off just prior to hitting the stop button after trying unsuccessfully several times to determine and resolve the issue. I am looking to find an OEM seat cover for a 1999 such as yours, based on color only as it will fit my plans for the bikes make over to appear as yours (blue frame, seat, graphics). The problem is a search of the web only turns up parts for the US based 91-93 models. ANY help in the right direction of a supplier across the pond would be much appreciated. Thanks J..
Thanks mate. Glad that fumbling my way through it all allows others to get something out of it too. Try Partzilla, you have to select year model 1992 but there are virtually no differences between 1992-1998 year models so everything should fit. I just had the carby apart and cleaned again and it stil leaks. I guess i need a new rubber float pin seal, yours might be the same. In regards to the seat the OEM cover is $170 US, if you want the whole seat its only $384! There looks like there's a cycle-works cover for $44 so maybe that's an alternative option for us? I'm going to get mine re-foamed and covered at a place in Melbourne who did a good job on my KTM seat.
Yes, good torque on this little 200, but it absolutely rips once you let it rev. A relatively linear power band too, at least for a 2T. Very controllable and it pops the wheel up easily enough up till 3rd gear without the clutch. I've just installed the new clutch plates. Started with a friction plate, alternated with steel plates ending with a friction plate. I soaked them in oil as recommended. I aligned the marks (in this case red paint) with other plates nut my question is; the workshop manual says to align the mark on the pressure plate with the boss which I did, but it also says the friction plates are "two type", "smaller friction plate should be installed at second from inside", I cant actually see any difference between them? Whats the deal there? The old springs were 32.3 mm (limit is 32mm) and the new ones are 33.6, the book says standard is 34.5 but I'm not worried about that. Old plates New plates
new seat cover & graphics mate & she'll be looking sweet! bet its a hoot to ride. now if only yamaha/kawasaki/suzuki would bring these back in a modern guise(200/220/250 2Ts)
The workshop manual says the friction plates are "two type", "smaller friction plate should be installed at second from inside", I cant actually see any difference between them? Does anyone know if the plates are meant to be installed in some particular configuration? They all seem to be the same diameter, same width and same pattern back and front. They're aftermarket plates but not the cheap ones
I figured it out, the ID of one of the plates is a few mm smaller than the others. I put it back in second from the front.
I've also joined this site because of this thread, looking forward to how this bike comes out. I've got a WR200, my carb also leaks, must be a common fault for this model. I see you got the Trail Tech Vapor, which exact model did you get, and did the water temp sensor and wheel speed sensors fit ok? I think the one I need is the 757-200 model?
The bike is in at the shop atm and should have it back at the end of the week so i can check things then. lll look into which model trail tech unit I got. Off the top of my head it was definitely the "vapor" unit but the model number ill confirm. I do remember having some minor issue with the wheel/brake caliper mounted speedo sensor, I cant remember if I ended up using the existing after marker sensor that was attached or not. Havent installed the temo sensor, cant justify creating a potential failure point when these bikes dont overheat anyway. Haven't installed the tach sensor but it looks like it will work. Just bought a new needle valve assembly from the usa which I am getting the shop to put in while its there. I hope thats the fix. I had to have the shock COMPLETELY rebuilt and the forks werent much better, just getting that and some linkage bearings pressed in.
I just picked up a 1992 WR 200 and also had the fuel leak. It turned out to be an o-ring behind the needle and seat body where it presses into the carb body. I just bought a new needle and seat assembly and replaced it completely but I'm sure if you just replaced the o-ring it would work as well.
Thanks, the leak from the overflow was fixed with a new needle and seat. Im am still getting a weep somehere but its really hard to see where from. Not from the overlfow, just the carb body is always dirty from dirt sticking to the fuel that leaks. Seems to get over the whole body but cant see where it leaks from.
Been riding the old thing for a while now and has been running like a charm. Recently repaired the last bit that was untouched being the power valve - as well as the bike ran it just didn't have that 2T powerband hit although torque was ok. The servo and cables were fine, but the control plate which transfers the push pull from the servo cables to the power valve shaft was flogged out. This meant the valve wasn't opening or closing as far as it should have, it also caused a lag each time the servo motor actuated. Carb tuning was a tad rich also. Running sweet now.
