I put 2 dots on the cam and checked both at TDC compression and 180 degrees out. The factory dot looks perfect 180 degrees out (valve overlap TDC), but at TDC compression it is just below the surface. I checked TDC with a depth gauge and will include a picture of the crank dots at that point (they look accurate to me). I think moving a tooth in either direction would look much worse. The green dots are hard to see but they are there.
I remember that in at least one of the two positions the dot was not perfectly flush with the surface of the cylinder in my 610: it was only close to flush. It should be "IMG_1853", then. (The picture is taken from an angle and so I mentally apply a slight perspective correction to it); well, I agree: they look accurate. I barely see them in the pics but it seems to me, too, that they look much worse. In conclusion, I think that you have checked the timing better than a typical person would do and if I was you, I would consider that timing fine. I don't know whether that was your problem, but if it was, I think it's fixed. Now, since some time has elapsed, I aslo remind you this:
I put everything back together this weekend and started it up in my room. It started and ran fine for about 15 seconds before I turned it off to stop from smogging up the house. Got the bike outside and couldn't get it started at all. Even put in new gas and charged the battery up for and hour and still nothing. Then while I was getting the bike back in my house I dropped it and destroyed some body panels/turn signals. My weekend went from the best to the worst very quickly. Thanks for your help, but i'm really considering junking the bike at this point.
I absolutely mean no offense, but if you're forced to work on the bike in your room then maybe it's best if you let it go in favor of a more mechanically forgiving bike. These Huskys are great when they run properly but they can be petty bitches when something isn't right. From what I can gather you may have a fuel and/or air delivery problem: you should definitely check the intake manifold to see if it is cracked/damaged (pretty common from 2005 up), but don't ruin your day for it. I own a 610 and I love it but it has given me more than one headache
That's one of the reasons for which I don't use a bike like that to commute to work, they are too unreliable. Selling it because of this unreliability would also be understandable IMHO. Sorry to read about that frustrating experience. I know little about air and fuel issues, but they always suggest that if it doesn't start, one should check spark, air, fuel and compression, so it sounds like a good idea. Have you tried push starting it with the help of someone or you just used the e-starter? And what about posting a video of a starting attempt?
Next weekend I’ll get the bike in my dads garage and take a look at the things you guys pointed out along with some others. I’ll also take some videos and pictures for you guys. Last year about this time I had the bike down to bare frame for powder coating and made her look all nice. Now it’s just a big money pit/paper weight. Thank god I waited until finals were over before I started working on it again. I’ll include a picture of the last time she was running just for fun. Thanks for all the help guys. We will see if I can’t figure out some more this weekend.
Back to basics. Does it have strong enough spark? Iridium plugs do broke more easilly than standard,so check with the plug you have installed. If yes,does it have gas,in usable amount. Try with starting fluid if in doubt. If it does not have spark,check wiring first.After trying new plug... Around steering stem is one area wires usually break no matter what bike. They are twisted back and forth and again,and again....thousands times. Ignition lock next,and its wires. One component that may prevent spark is pickup coil,it has some ohm resistance,i dont know if its around 100 ohm like ktm and ducati or something else. Not common but not unheard either. I have not heard that cdi box has failed in these,(like they do in africa twins) while anything is possible as long its man made. And its under saddle,where it in theory might get some stress if someone has put it in there wrong. Check these first,so there is direction where to go next.
It probly won’t happen this weekend but once I get it to my dads house I will try to get to the bottom of this. The problem could be any of the things you guys mentioned, but last year at this time I went over almost all that stuff when I had the bike torn down. I checked ohm resistance on pickup coil, new spark plug, rebuild kit for carb (rubber o rings and such), continuity tested everything in the wire harness just to make sure the bike wasn’t a lemon after buying it. The bike also ran in my room that day so likely not an electronic issue. If I had to guess right now what the problem is I would say the piston from Woossner that says it’s compatible actually has to small of valve pockets on the intake side and has bent my intakes again. I hope this isn’t the case but I honestly believe that the first time I set the timing around 2 months ago was correct and as you can see from my previous posts this last time was definetly correct. I will of course take a look at everything and let you guys know.
reason it did run in room,but not outside makes me think it might be electric related. Broken wires work in some position,and not in other. Allso pickup coil may broke in way that it works and not. When mine (in ducati,but coils are built the same.) failed,it did not work in cold,but worked when engine heated up with one cylinder. Untill it didnt work at all. Didnt you turn engine over without spark plug,to check that everything can turn without contacting? Modelling clay is sure way to check valve to piston(and piston squish) clearance when doing modifications to cr etc. I have one wossner conrod in shelf that says it fits 99-10 husqy 570& 610. I dont know what it fits but definetly not late nineties or 05 hq 610. So aftermarket parts are not always what they say they are...
I didn’t clay the piston. I did rotate the crank by hand for a few cycles with plug out and all seemed well. Thanks for letting me know about that coil problem you had that’s interesting. I’ll do a compression test on the husky and if it’s 100+ psi then I know it’s electrical or air fuel related.
Finally got around to doing a compression test and it read 50 psi. At this point the only thing I can think of is that the Wossner 8815DC piston is not compatible with 2006-2010 Husgvarna 610. My guess is that it is only compatible with TC series 610 (it is labeled as being compatible with both). The bike had spark, Clean rebuilt carb, new gas but only 50 psi compression. The head had new valves lapped in and vacuum tested. The timing was meticulously checked and verified by other forum users. Unless someone has some information that i'm missing I'll give Wossner a call in the next couple days to let them know what happened. Thanks again to everyone helping me I would feel unbelievably lost without you guys.
Glad you seem to have found the culprit. I am skeptical about aftermarket pistons, after my own experience. Unless you are looking to increase the CR an OEM piston is still the best bet in terms of compatibility. Keep us posted
I finally got the bike running, the problem was not the piston. I clay tested both pistons and they both have adequate clearance. The valves were not bent thank-god. The problem was the rings not seating, WD40 in the cylinder did not make a difference in compression but a cap full of oil put me right at 100PSI. I reused the base gasket/head gasket because I was scared to spend more money on the bike without knowing the problem but now that I know the secret I'm tempted to redo it all with new gaskets/cam chain etc. Thanks to everyone for helping
Tried to start the bike today after it ran yesterday and it wouldn't start. Did a compression test and its back to 50PSI. Tried the oil trick again and no luck it didn't make a difference. Should I take the bike to a priest for an exorcism?
Yes, but good news I have figured out how to get it reliably started. You have to lean the bike really far to spread the oil on the piston. The battery must be fully charged to get enough rpm going, and you have to flick the throttle to get some gas on the intakes. If any steps are missed or the engine turns over 10 or so times without firing up it must all be redone. Now I would ride it and seat the rings, but the bike is making a terrible rattling noise. I’ll post a video of it. I can’t figure out what is rattling. Adjusting MCCT doesn’t make a difference. I checked the valves and took the valve cover off. The rocker arms don’t have excessive play and neither do the cam shaft bearings.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdLmBGy6OhE Here is what the bike sounds like being turned over manually with the valve cover off. The ticking noise could be the culprit but I don't know what is causing it. It sounds like its coming from down in the engine case.
I bit the bullet and ordered a new OEM piston kit (with new gaskets and head studs). I believe the noise is piston slap due to excessive piston to cylinder play (this play could explain the low compression and the need for oil in cylinder to start). Will provide an update once OEM piston arrives. Eliminating the Wossner piston as the culprit at this point seems like the best idea. If anyone is still following this thread thanks. I will eventually get this bike running I promise.
I check this forum from time to time whereas some yars ago I did it on a daily basis, both becuase I've -not completely- given up on motorcycles and because the 610 section of this forum is way less lively than it used to be years ago... after all, the 610 has been discontinued for a decade. I didn't answer your posts about the noises because I may know something about the 610 but I'm not expereinced enough to make assumptions on noises and, more specifically, I didn't know that noise in particular. I really hope that you make this bike running. It seems to me that you are a capable and motivated person who has had some bad luck with this bike... sometimes engines behave in a weird way, like softwares or electrical devices: you think that you have done things properly, you even double check but they don't work like they should. As I wrote in the post #2 of this thread, I don't like much that piston either, so an OEM one could be the solution. If the non OEM piston turns out being good and you find oout that the culprit is something else don't think that you've wasted your money, though, because having a spare piston for a bike which has already been discontinued for so much time may be quite useful in the future!
