2007 sm610 jetting question

So I would need to go to #6 from the #5 I'm on right now to make it richer? I just did a test run using the 50 pilot. It stays idling a little better. I will be at 1600rpm constant and then it drops to 12-1300 and it stays there until I give it gas. I then give it gas and it goes back up to 1600-1700rpm, then when I come back to a stop the idle drops down to 12-1300 again. It's not really fluctuating, just dropping. I tried turning the idle up but that doesn't help it.

The guy recommended changing only the main jet to 185 instead of 180? Or vice versa?

I also noticed that with the 50 pilot in, at constant Rpms it is slightly hesitant. Any idea?

I thank you for helping me get through this

S

sorry it is 180 as stock and he recommended changing it to 185.

I do get the odd miss at about 4000rpm but I'm hoping when I get the 185 main jet it will fix this.

sounds good, dont even know which plug is in it, lol is there a set number of turns for the idle screw to start from as well? iv never seen it written in any manuals or anything

So after ripping my bike apart about 6 different times I think I have found the one

180 main
42 pilot
3 turns on the fuel screw
55 leak jet
0 ring mod
Needle in the 5th position

I tried
180mj, 45 pj, 5th needle, 55lj
180, 50, 5th needle, 55lj
180, 42, 4th needle, 55 lj
180, 42, 6th needle, 55 lj


The set up right now seems to be prime, no bogs, it idles pretty consistently, no hesitation at any throttle
WOT pulls nice, overall it's running nice. I may tweak the fuel screw around and the idle.

I also have all the smog crap taken out, full Leo Vince and the iridium plug the cr8eix plug in it.
This is at about 300ft sea level in the Bay Area of California.

I hope this can help people out there because I went through hell trying to get this thing to run right. I wouldn't wish this stress on my worst enemy.

I think once you go passed 2.5 turns on the fuel screw you should increase the size of the main jet to the next size up. Might give you more room for adjustment too.

Sorry I thought it was main. I remember reading somewhere about adjusting the idle screw until it's about 4000rpm and then adjust the mix screw until it smooths out and if u go past 2.5 turns the u should increase the main. Iv been trying to find where I read it. Think it was in some one of the husqvarna manuals but I could be completely wrong. Best advice research everything your told.

I cannot for the life of me find where I read that so just disregard anything I have said in case it's wrong. Sorry.

So after not being super happy with the jetting I ended up testing it with different jets. I must say that you can't take JD jettings word when they tell you what to put in your carb. Of course every bikes jetting is diff because of all the factors that exist. I feel as if they are too general in telling you what you should put in. "You need to put this is if you live at this altitude" I don't blame them, it would be crazy to expect them to dyno the bikes everywhere in diff states and etc.

So with that being said, I had to basically become a carb doctor over night, there was minimal forums and topics that had what I needed. So I took it upon myself to figure out myself and not give up and take it to a mechanic. The set up I thought I had set upon was the:

180 main
42 pj
Needle 5th
55 leak jet
0 ring mod
Fuel screw 2.5 turns

After I did that my bike would die when I leaned it over, which meant there was most likely a float issue. So I took the carb apart and the float looked pretty good, I put it back together and the
Bike still did the same thing. So I thought, forget about float specs. ( the fcr spec obviously wasn't working) I opened it back up and lowered the float, which made it a little leaner and that fixed the issue! I was stoked.

Later on I went to race my friend on his husky, same exhaust his
Has 18k hard miles on it and I have about 50 pounds on him. The dyno on the seat of my pants was thinking yeah my bike is quick now. So we raced and he smoked me. I was sad to say the least. (We previously raced a few months back and it was pretty even, but I don't remember how much gas he or I had and since then I've gained about 10lbs and he lost 10lbs)

So back to the drawing board I went. I went and bought a 182 and a 185 main. Put the 185 main in and needle pos. at #4. The bike had good top speed but was terrible down in the
Mid range. It reminded me of vtec in the civics. So I went and put the 182 in and did the 5th clip. The bike got a little better but it seemed it lost some top speed. So me and my friend raced and he beat me but not by as much. So I was on to something. I then switched the needle to the 6th.
It got a little better but felt a little rich. I then put the 185 back in and needle to 5, we raced
And I kept up with him but he still had me. I then put the needle to 6 with the 185. Bike felt good and we raced and we were dead even, he maybe had me by a 1/2 bike. ( same fuel level) but I weigh 50lbs more than him. So Long story short,

185 main
6th needle pos
42 pilot
Fuel screw about 2 turns ( still going to tinker with it)
55 leak jet
O ring mod

Sea level(350ft) Bay Area California

I am now happy with this set up. Bike pulls nice and is super responsive. And I recently purchased some excels from Kirk at factory pro racing with his machined hubs and I am dying to put them on, they are black with black hubs, laced and trued. Kirks a great guy and cares about the customers needs, I highly recommend him if you're looking for wheels but
Aren't trying to spend 1500$ on excels. I got the complete front and rears 3.5"F 5"R for 1080$ and I got them two days after I ordered them. The cheap warp 9's were the same exact price but I did more
Research and found the Kirk.

Just thought I'd type this up for the
Guys who will need help down the
Road and will have some direction after the general JD instructions fail. And don't think I'm trying to take a shot at JD because they are great people and care about your needs aswell. Air density is different everywhere. Even if your at sea level, it's never going to be the same. The only person you can copy the exact set up from, is your neighbor.

Thanks for the read

Good work, your persistence has paid off!

The 610 is a great bike!

Thanks man I appreciate it. Do you remember off the top of your head what jets you're running on your bike? I live in Morgan hill as well, small world.

Must have been you that I saw the other day on Butterfield, red/white 610?

I'm running a 185mj, 42 pilot, JD red needle 4th posted from the top. Also have adjustable leak jet, heavier pump spring and Honda pump diaphragm. Also have a velocity stack with adjustable air circuits that allow adjustment on the fly. Spent a lot of money on this carb over the years. I would get a Lectron carb if I had to do it over.

Yeah that was my buddy's 610, he just got it this past weekend, all stock 4k miles, it's in great condition. Me and my other friend have black 610's. Mines an 07 his an 06. They are great bikes for everything that needs to be done. We both came off of drz's. They don't even compare. How do you like the velocity stack? Is it a lot easier to dial in? Would you recommend it?

The stack us about $150+ , http://www.performance-design.net/flo_commander_2000.htm

I would save the money and get a Lectron carb. It is much simpler than the FCR , is easier to tune and should improve fuel economy and power.

Just an update, bikes running pretty good, getting pretty good gas mileage, 100miles+ out of a tank. I'm on needle position 6 which is a little too rich and needle 5 is a little too lean. I hear that there's a washer you can get that makes the needle position 5.5 or somethjng like that, anyone familiar with it?

Also, got my factory pro hubs and excels from Kirk at factory pro and put them on yesterday, the 5 inch in the rear fits perfectly, I was surprised at how good the fitment was. Here's a few pics