If you just want to try it, the connector is the important one and is relatively cheap. The parts to block off the O2 port can be purchased far more cheaply elsewhere if you want. The Husky part is nice because it is already cross drilled for safety wire but is very expensive for what you get. Just FYI if you want to save some money. (You can also make your own O2 disable connector for a couple of bucks if you are handy and willing to rig something up yourself. There I would say the Husky part is worth it.)
Totally agree with this. having the sensor's output in tack should allow for crisp response at zero to 10,000 feet elevations...its the whole idea behind EFI anyway.
With the seperate atmospheric pressure sensor, you don't need the lamda for that...No way is a stock TE/SM EVER gonna run better than a PUed one ANY PLACE..
Thats one of the most clueless things I've ever heard about a Husky.. That would make me not trust that dealer at all.. a 630/610 TE/SM is the exact same motor.
I didn't know they were using a map sensor like many auto's do. That's good for elevation changes but I still still think a lamda sensor reporting the A/F ratio could work very well as long as the software recognises where that ratio needs to be for optimum performance.
It really is night day between having the o2 sensor in and having it removed...no comparison....get that o2 sensor out ! The bike is fantastic with it removed! Great idle ...instant go and pull like a train from idle to the rev limiter.
Using the PU kit, you CAN just leave the lambda sensor in and strap the lead up where it can´t be seen. It´ll do no harm and camouflage the changes made. Over here it´d be a sensible precaution as the law´s quite strict.
The only thing that leaving the lamda in for THESE bikes is good for is for MAYBE eventually burning holes through the piston from being so incredibly lean... Thats just the way it is these days to make fun, gutsy bikes still emissions and noise legal in ALL the places they are sold.. Just like the "old" days of jetting and such.. Stock isn't necersarrily "right".
Was just riding the bike on the freeway and felt a big lurch followed by a pulsating motion like the rear brake was grabbing ... turned out to be a sheared off rear sprocket bolt. The damage was 1 missing bolt, 1 bolt with no nut, a deep groove on the inside of the swingarm, and ALL the sprocket bolts were loose. 450 miles on the bike! I'm sure this will not be covered under warranty. WTF? I've raced desert, ridden to the tip of Baja, and ridden tens of thousands of street miles AND NEVER HAD THE SPROCKET BOLTS COME OUT. Still waiting for the 600 mile service to install the pu kit so in the meantime I'll continue riding a bike that runs like crap.
I don't know if things work differently over there. But I would bloody well expect that to be covered by warranty. Give it a go, and keep us posted Oh yeah. My left side cover has melted to the pipe. Looks like the rubber knob thing fell off
Same thing happened to mine @ 500 km except no swingarm damage. Replaced and locktited poor quality locknuts. These nuts were checked when I first got the bike!
Considering that something very bad could have happened to you, I'd be raising a massive stink about this.
I just want to verify something: Can you disconnect the wire from the harness under the seat, and leave the lambda sensor in, without purchasing the rest of the P/U kit, and notice an improvement/not harm the engine? I would also like to remove the "baffle" that is in the airbox as soon as possible as well. I purchased the P/U kit with the bike, but the dealer was out of stock, and should have one early next week. I use this bike for commuting and am dreadfully fearful of running the bike lean, especially during break-in period.
I left the sensor in place instead of using the plug. It wont do the sensor much good but it´d be just too easy to spot that the bike´s been tampered with in case I´m stopped and the police give the bike a once over. The sensor lead is zip tied to the frame under the saddle.
No danger of running the bike too lean with the lamda sensor hooked up. The sensor will trim the mixture to meet emissions but will not be lean enough to damage engine. It will just run crappy. You can unplug the sensor and the fuel injection will revert to a rich mixture map and run better but the neutral will flash indicating FI problem.
ok, so the resistor/jumper in the kit is just to fool the ECU into thinking that the sensor is still hooked up, so as not to allow the neutral to flash......correct? (thanks for the quick replies fellas!)
I believe the point of the resistor / jumper was to tell the ECU to use the Powered up map. Sensor in or out really does not matter. I'm not really sure about the neutral, or any other indicators though. At least that is what I recall.
So there is the stock (lambda) map, the un-plugged, richer mixture map, and then with the P/U resistor, there is a "Powered up" map? Maybe I'm not being clear. I don't have possession of the P/U kit yet, I want to unplug the Lambda sensor wire, leave the sensor in the exhaust, and run the bike like that. From what I'm getting here, is that with the wire unplugged, the ECU will revert to a richer map, but will flash the neutral light indicating an FI error. When the dealer gets the P/U kit to me, I will then plug the jumper into the harness, remove the actual sensor from the exhaust, and then I will have a "powered up" map. Thanks for being patient, but I'd rather be safe than sorry, I have a 30mile commute each way to work, and I'd rather not blow up my new bike because of a miscommunication. I just can't ride the bike with this stuttering off/on throttle nonsense, dealing with a lot of intersections/traffic it's actually quite dangerous.
