2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

Thanks for the detailed response on the modified bike.

As mentioned elsewhere by Motosportz, perhaps the Aus/Euro ecu fueling is different.
I have a hunch our maps are already richer that your 50 state legal ecu are(you may know already) & I don't have the free flow exhaust, head etc.


Interesting info, hanging to see the difference in torque in the lower end of the range when you get a dyno run in.
I do think, with the fuel added for the mod, you'll like the extra pull down low.

Can this be done still running with the TE ECU? And does it bring up 'Fail' on the dash if you do?

Dangermouse449 did you have race map 3 on your bike before the butterfly mod etc

I believe so, but this hasn't been confirmed yet.

The 1st time I wanted to get the dealer to recheck it they were away at a race. I asked last time I was home from work but they said their HST was 'down'.

Going from Tinken's info 2011 bikes may not be able to take the map & may be why mine has a different VIN no. sticker on it than my frame.
(It had work during warranty for flameouts but the problems persisted, it had slightly more power but flamed out & ran on as before)

Cheers thanks. It would be good to find out the difference and power delivery with the options put before us.
Race Map 3
Race Map 3 with the butterfly removal
Race map 3 with the butterfly removal and the arm from the manual throttle body removed

I wonder what the differences would be between all three. Now I wished I had tryied this process. Because it's just the difference that I didnt try first makes me wonder.

When I was buying my 511, I asked Kurt at Slacks Creek about "BMW/Race map 3" and he said that "they" put a map in that is put together for Australia. Exactly what that means, I don't know for sure, but that being said it could be true what DM was saying about we have different mapping here to elsewhere.

How is this done? I don't see any option for it on my PCV program.

It is in the tools menu. Plug it into your bike. Go to configure, there you find the accel pump feature.
I have had mine set from 5% to 10% it works. If you have trouble finding it, go to their website, excellent
Instruction there.

Does not make sense to me either, but I tried it while I was in there, and it does...I do have PCV, but I did
not change my settings, gonna have to get auto tune so I can see the AFR's, another strange thing is the cold
start is much better, and hot start is great if you wait one minute. I am puzzled, but it does pull better down
low. Not an engineer, just a wrench spinner?

So my cold start was better also after butterfly removal...but then I cut off the arm and now it starts but still might flameout as the idle is low cold.

Solution is to give 2% throttle or so for maybe 10 seconds until it kind of warms up.

Before the mod even with PCV and race map, if you start it it would hit a few times then die...hit a few more times then cough and die. Adding throttle helped usually a bit.

Manual choke would be nice.

In my original post, moving the TPS a hairs breadth(Like barely any) is one of the things I listed.
The post was for 3 mods at once.

You could always refit the butterfly & see. There are lots of older posts with bikes running perfectly well with just the Map3.

In the original post I said I tried these mods after having the dealer try the 'regular' fixes.
(At the time I was lead to believe it had the upgraded map installed - They didn't call it a name, just upgraded.... as soon as I can, I'll find out what that was)

The occasional dead throttle was part of the original motivator to try it in the first place, I figured I had nothing to loose & could put it back if it all went pair-shaped.
As you say, the bottom end increase was an unexpected & very welcome side effect.

Hey tinken,

I enabled the accel pump function adding 10% fuel over 50 rpm's with 4% throttle activation.

Now when blipping the throttle and letting off I get a very loud crackle/backfire. The auto tune AFR is hard to watch but stays from 13.2-14.xx I do see a peak of 15 but that is probably when the throttle plate snaps closed and the rpms drop. Is this a sign of too much fuel being added? OR too little at 0% at higher rpm? It does not crackle/pop without the AP function?

I was thinking it might help hughisdaft who had damaged his TE set-up before reading this post.
He might be able to run with the flap out & wiring disconnected & not have to buy new parts....

Before I stumbled upon this thread I tryed and failed to bypas the fbw throttle and not give it any control by taking the motor/sensor of the fbw throttle and locking the butterfly into fully open position I am now faced with a fail reading on the dash and even when replacing the motor to the original position I get a tempromental fail on the dash every second start or so. From the way you speak of not being able to remove the fbw sensor motor im guessing you have tryed and failed like myself, If so how did you replace the idle sensor regulator corectly ?

What would you say is a good 'anti-stall' air fuel ratio? I'm thinking 12.0 is a good starting point for the 1500-2500 rpms, but maybe even richer

Yes, understood.
If TE body had/has a u/s stepper motor or sensor it could be disconnected & use the same work around setup as for TC, rather than buy a newTE body....