2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

I just removed the FBW one, but not without testing and idling it, more like try to get it to stall. And it did with no problems. Then i removed the Flap and started up again. Now the bike is a bit snappier and as u said, once the Manual flap opens, the FBW one sometimes didnt open quick enough, shaft doesnt turn . Thats when the bike stalls.

So flap is gone... Saturday ill go riding and check it.

But the other thing with Idle etc... i don't really have issues with idle and or idling up.


So i am not going to touch the other parts for now.

One thing thou i got. When i stall the bike with Compression and i hit the Start button right away, it won't start. i have to crank for ages and if i turn the throttle just a tiny bit, it just spits and does nothing. I have to push the STOP button once and hit start and it will do it.

What can i do to get that under Control ??

Cheers.

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Where can i find the TC Idle adjustment procedure ??? or any pictures of it. I got no info what so ever?
The plastic guide you where talking about, could u upload a pic of it ?

thanks

One thing thou i got. When i stall the bike with Compression and i hit the Start button right away, it won't start. i have to crank for ages and if i turn the throttle just a tiny bit, it just spits and does nothing. I have to push the STOP button once and hit start and it will do it.

What can i do to get that under Control ??

Cheers.[/quote]


Mine does the same thing too from time to time, but always has.
It has always needed throttle after a stall (not normal for an EFI system) but does start up.
My last ride I stalled the bike myself - as in NOT a flameout - & still had to crank it with some throttle to make it fire, so no change there.


The restarting has been much better since fitting the Lithium battery, it cranks over much quick & is easier to start (Also saves 1.5 kg of weight too).

I just adjusted the brass TE's idle screw to get a nice speed that will idle cold & not be too high when hot, similar to setting the rotating TC knob as Tinken mentioned.

The guide I made was actually the nozzle for a silicon tube, trimmed so it wouldn't foul on anything once all in place.
Basically, you want to centre the throttle spring and DEFIANTLY not have it foul & or jam up, obviously. (Don't have a pic, sorry)

Mine does the same thing too from time to time, but always has.
It has always needed throttle after a stall (not normal for an EFI system) but does start up.
My last ride I stalled the bike myself - as in NOT a flameout - & still had to crank it with some throttle to make it fire, so no change there.


The restarting has been much better since fitting the Lithium battery, it cranks over much quick & is easier to start (Also saves 1.5 kg of weight too).[/quote]


ok.. BAttery comes tomorrow.

Thanks

Any factory info on Husky bikes for our market are avail. at http://www.husqvarnamotorcycles.com.au/ under the heading 'Support', just choose your model & year.

You can look up other years of the same models to compare part numbers or procedures in the manuals & catalogs.

i already checked the TE throttle body 2011 and 12/13. both the same. its in the Software.
Tomorrow i am on the bike and cant actually wait to get out.

so i was out with the bike and yes , it is like a completely different bike.... Not a single flame out. The bike is snappier and pull's even harder. Now when u drive along, you actually can lift the Front over a puddle without a big struggle.
Plus installing a 180cca Lithium battery , the hot start issue is pretty much gone with that. Now when u stall under Compression, and hit the Start button, the ENgine starts right away. No cranking and cranking....

RESUME>>>>>>>>>>>> WHo ever came up with such a Crap double flap System and smooth Power should have been fired right away........

Thanks to DAngermousse449.

So 9880sts, you just removed the second butterfly only?

Yes, only the second butterfly is gone. It is so much more fun now.

For the Engine Braking, i will remove parts on monday.

Butterfly removed, Bypass screw 2 1/2 turns out and just a tiny bit more.

better battery. makes starting much easier.

And a TPS Sensor CAlibration.

Just open the Airbox, don't remove the whole Airbox. loosen up the Hoseclamp and pull out the Intake hose. easy and quick. You r done within 15 min.

what u get is a Bike with much more Grunt.

When u remove the Butterfly, keep a Magnet beside the screwdriver , just to make sure u dont drop the little Screws ...

Do you just remove the butterfly or do you have to mess with the throttle cables as well?

Sounds like my weekend just got a little busier. I never really realized how much the inconsistent engine braking was and the delay when trying to loft over a whoop or something. I've just learned to accept it..until now

when i was reading that flame outs become less with more KM onnthe meter, i thought ok then. But now i realised that you only adjust your style of riding to the bike. you know uphill the bike maybe flames out , so you throttle differently. Yesterday as i was out, i was completely free of that. You dont have to worry about it.

Yes only the Butterfly itself. Leave the Shaft in there...

thats what she said

Just open the Airbox, don't remove the whole Airbox. loosen up the Hoseclamp and pull out the Intake hose. easy and quick. You r done within 15 min.

what u get is a Bike with much more Grunt.

When u remove the Butterfly, keep a Magnet beside the screwdriver , just to make sure u dont drop the little Screws ...[/quote] - Good tip!


When you guys are doing these jobs, be 100% sure you have the rubber air-ram to the throttle body re-sealed back into the air-filter housing. (See pic)
There is a pair of lips that seal inside & outside the housing.
Obviously if it isn't in correctly it will leak dust into the engine!!

Glad someone else is finding this mod useful too

- Good tip!


When you guys are doing these jobs, be 100% sure you have the rubber air-ram to the throttle body re-sealed back into the air-filter housing. (See pic)
There is a pair of lips that seal inside & outside the housing.
Obviously if it isn't in correctly it will leak dust into the engine!!

Glad someone else is finding this mod useful too

View attachment 39360 [/quote]

Hey Dangermousse,
i reckon this modification will be soon in many TE 449 and 511's.

All we want is grunt .... forward movement and front wheels popped when we twist the throttle.

We dont ride on Ice to ask for smooth power...

And thanks, i never really realised that the Trip meter went to 0 after some Engine restart. The Bigger LITHIUM Battery was another huge improvement.

Tinken,

This web image is what made me think the PCV had only the injector connector.

As I'm aware now, it is much smarter than this.

Glad someone else is finding this mod useful too

View attachment 39360 [/quote]

Hey Dangermousse,
i reckon this modification will be soon in many TE 449 and 511's.

All we want is grunt .... forward movement and front wheels popped when we twist the throttle.

We dont ride on Ice to ask for smooth power....

And thanks, i never really realised that the Trip meter went to 0 after some Engine restart. The Bigger LITHIUM Battery was another huge improvement.[/quote]



Great to hear, I never met a horse-power I didn't like!! lol.

Yeah, with regards to the trip meter, until I fitted the new battery, I'd never had it measure a full ride before.

I can finally now see how many km I get for a given amount of fuel. We ride fairly rough country, so an 80-100 km ride is about it for a tank.

It is handy to know if you're going to need fuel.

After I worked out it was a voltage drop,I opened up the speedo ages ago, but didn't pursue it.

It looks like they were going to put in a back-up battery system, but didn't for some reason.

Someone else can have a crack at it if they like