2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

Correct. AKI is an average of the two common methods for testing octane ratings. RON & MON. Research octane no & Motor octane number. Typical minimum standards for Aussie 98RON unleaded roughly matches 94/95 Mon standard fuel.

Following on. Different additives are required to pass both tests, so fuel mixed to just pass 1 test may not pass the other. Fuel producers had to 'overshoot' one test to be able to pass the other as well.
It made sense to make best of both worlds single result test (AKI). If a fuel was just short of a pass on say Mon, but over on Ron, the AKI average would still be a pass.

The only paper I found, in limited time looking so far, for Aus was quite old, '1991'.
I will keep looking as time permits
(Have lots of family commitments before flying out for work again soon)

Huskylove,

I've just pulled the MAP sensor from the TB port, left in plugged in, covered the hole & the engine runs, revved it to half speed etc, ok.

You are correct!

Load is a simple throttle based system, not map based. I imagine the MAP is then only used for atmospheric reference prior to start up.
(The port runs to the vacuum side of the lower butterfly, still seems wasted...)

Now, as to why it runs so well without the butterfly in, no idea at this stage, it just does.

Going back now to edit my post about the MAP based theory and keep the thread factual.

Good to know! Thanks for trying that

Odd that it is in a port to vacuum, but not in use...

Gents I can say to those that are just starting to look at this. YOU MUST HAVE RACE MAP3/MEO MAP/AKRO MAP/
I have a 2012 TE449 pro circuit full system
with the BF Removed and other mod it was more responsive but did not allow the bike to rev [like being in standard mode]
with the BF Removed and other mod and RACE MAP 3 the bike was peeky , fast response and no crackling out off the rear of the pipe or flames.

Before you do this mod make sure you have race map 3. otherwise

AND GENTS THERE ARE NO BOXING RINGS HERE NO CAGES WE ARE NOT HERE TO FIGHT BUT WE ARE ALL SHARE THE SAME PASSION AND THAT IS OUR BIKES. AND YES EVEN IF THEY ARE DIFFERENT COLOURS.

MAY ONE DAY WHEN WE DIE WE WILL ALL GO TO BIKE HEAVEN AND RIDE TOGETHER.

This is also what I said in the original post.

Anyone attempting the mods should have exhausted the other possibilities first.
Once on the newer map, the small adjustments for extra fuel (whether by tps or piggyback) & with the butterfly gone, the bikes are the equal of anything in the 450cc class.

As delivered from new, correct, they are only as good as
a TC 250/310.

IMO- If running map set 1 is within your acceptable parameters, then you should seriously consider getting a 250/310 instead.
Tinken you are very correct there.

I would like to know how do you set up the mapping or should I say can you set up the mapping between 1,2,3 to be able to switch.
for me switching between mapping is me being able to control the bike if my young bloke has a ride.

Map 1 is if you do not have the jumper plug connected under the seat & the O2 sensor installed.
Map 2 is the second map loaded in whichever map set has been uploaded into the ecu.
When map set 3 is installed, it still has a msp1 & 2. Just the software has been renewed in the ecu.
So plug out, low power/emissions map, plug installed, power map (shows as race map II on dash)

Tinken,

The power commander accelerator pump function is working exceptionally well to make the butterfly removal and open air filter come together. I am still trying to find the best settings...

Husky love,
I like the idea of that setting rather than just making the lower maps richer.
It is more what I'm used to with aftermarket auto ecus.
Good on you for chasing it through

So, should be good also for modified bike with TE body & no butterfly. Good to hear.

Cheers Thanks again.

I want MY bike to be frightening... and some professional racer to think my powerband is a bit much.

If and when you're able to share some settings, that would be great. Keeping in mind that most of us with PCVs only have airbox and exhaust mods.

I'm curious about the accelerator pump feature, but my first thought is that with EFI its not necessary. I thought in a carburetor it basically squirts extra fuel on big throttle hits because the normal flow of fuel would not be enough for that split second. I would think the efi system is 'fast' enough to immediately inject the extra fuel on big throttle hits.
Either way though would like to see what the settings are so i can try it out

Interesting - maybe your other mods (cylinder head work etc) contribute to that (more air flow). When you get the settings worked out please post up what they are (I'm sure you will) so we can try

Almost all efi systems do an 'accelerator pump' type of reaction in some form. On older 'group fire' efi car systems you could hear the injectors pulsing away by their steady tick. If you snapped the throttle open you could hear the rapid-fire of pulses to richen up the mix (like an accelerator pump) then return to a steady tick again.
Most after market set ups have this feature so you don't have to run rich mixtures in maps that don't need them.
Some systems have multiple accel pump adjustments, percent increase, sustain, different settings for low & high rpm.