2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

more flow in terms of air box mods ? I'm on the fence about opening up the air box I tampered with mine and found I had much more less power down low and only a slight increase in the top end, although tuning with the open air box in mind would allow you to have the correct air fuel mixture unlike how mine was, what are peoples thoughts on the header pipes we have available specifically the FMF mega bomb it's a huge cost to get it to Australia along with the conversion parts.

Hughisdft I reakon Australia has or is the most awesome place to ride and such a vast number of places to ride but I reakon Tassie is pretty special.

Plus 1 for Tassie riding.

Hughisdaft I run a pro circuit full system which I purchased in Australia and what a difference bottom end power [race map 2] the bike just pulled [harder than a bloke at $2 peep show] just heaps of grunt from first throttle to just past mide range.

Turned the air screw back to standard and upped the fuel in low and mid range to about 5/6 today. The result was horrible, bike wouldn't run well in any part of the range and almost cut out at 20mph. I think I have to run my bike close to or leaner than stock here since the air is so thin, it's easy to make the bike run too rich. The txc has a different map set than the TE too. My bike ran well before I pulled the butterfly. I think it's going back in...

Sounds like it mate.
Tinken has mentioned TXCs have different maps.
The mod may not suit it by the sound of it.

That said, it is only air & fuel, it should be able to be tuned out but trial & error tuning is hard without being able to measure the results.

ALRIGHT!! put your vote in on the poll thread. I think you'll be #1.

Oh, I must have missed the TXC part. I have my JD mounted on my bars at the moment. Makes it so easy to pull over on the trail and adjust with the settings.

I did all the mods in the original post except I never touched the TPS. On a ride yesterday I still experienced a number of flame outs.

My bike does have an odd sounding idle and I wonder if a little adjustment of the TPS would be the answer. Can someone post a description of where and how to adj the TPS please?

I have an A/F mixture gauge so I can adj the air bypass screw and see how or if that affects the overall running of the motor. Right now the thing is slightly rich everywhere and I am at 2.5 turns out.

The primary TPS is on the right side below the bulky fly-by-wire idle motor. It has one Torx screw in a slotted hole for adjustment. On my bike, swinging the plug end upward very slightly smoothed the idle & fixed the flameouts. If you move it too far, the engine will cut, you can move it back from there & restart & adjust again.

I don't have easy access to a HST to tell you a voltage to chase, the similar BMW G450X was 0.7v at idle. Getting to the pins while the engine is running is not easy.

I don't have an AFR meter yet either, it is a bit richer at idle by smell than I would normally run, but no flameouts.
I've been able to mess with my air bypass screw (air) & TPS (fuel)to get a smooth idle around 1900/2000 rpm. On mine the air screw is at 3 1/4 turns out from full in.

Is a flame out not by definition a 'stall caused by an overly lean mixture' ? If you are rich, then perhaps the stalling is something else? I know I easily mistook my own poor clutch work for 'flame out' when I first started riding (and reading), especially with the stock tall gearing.

That would be one definition, yes. Over advanced ignition timing can produce the same result.

It is possible to have the mixture rich at a set throttle position (like idle say), but get a 'transient lean' when the throttle plate is moved quickly to another setting. (As when you go to jump a log)
On a carby setup, this was what the accelerator pump was there to cure, as you cranked open the throttle, the jet squirted in extra fuel to get you to the throttle setting while the normal jetting 'caught up'.
With efi, extra injector pulses are programmed in as a reaction to a fast moving TPS signal to do the job of the accelerator pump. An 'accelerator pump map'.

I suspect the original programming doesn't have much of a AP map (to keep emissions down) so going a bit over rich to cover it seems to work, either by TPS adjustment, or piggyback tuning. Certainly has for my own bike.
Both ways seem to work.

It's been brought up here that the PCV has a section for making an 'AP' map & would be good to explore this if you have one.
That way the regular fuel maps could be set to your chosen AF ratio & still richen for cracking open the throttle.

Just checking, do have Map3 installed on your ecu as well?
A much better map set than the originals.....

Man! My bike is running good. The JD, plus butterfly removal is great. I was complaining a couple of weeks ago about the bike running rough even after the other mods, but I've put in an iridium plug and I'm running Torco Race Fuel Additive. That's gotten rid of the rough low end and idle -- completely. With the JD, BF, plug and Torco, the bike just explodes when I hit the throttle. It's amazing! I rode a super steep, rocky uphill today one gear higher than I thought I was. The thing just growled and lifted the front wheel when ever I wanted it to. And pulled me up like it was nothing. Sad part is that it's getting hot here so the season will end soon. Cosmo sad.

So after another ride in the Victoria High Country, i met another TE449 Owner and had a go on his bike.
He did ride my BIKE and was impressed. Stoked and soled to do the mod's.
Today then he called and asked me to do it. Well he is a Software Programmer and not really good with some Hand tools .
I have removed again the Velocity stack (intake boot) Removed the Butterfly , also showed him how the Butterfly reacts.
Removed the little knob. Then he had a go on his Bike. And you Guys should have seen his eyes !

As in the my first mod, i removed the Intake Boot / Manifold , easy and simply through the Airbox as you can see on the 3rd picture.

I also cleaned the Throttle body while accessible . Removed the Brass scew and cleaned the Bypass.

Increased the low idle to around 2000rpm. With the higher idle ,the bike starts easier in my experience.

I gained access by removing the ECU from it's mount .

BTW, yesterday my friend Mark and I picked up a couple of riders at the trail head. One of them was on a shiny new '13 KTM 450 EXC-F (that's a FI bike), which replaced a YZ250F which he dropped off a cliff (literally). It was his first ride on the bike. And I stopped him because I noticed his bike was pissing fluid up front. Turned out to be coolant and it dripping down onto the header and spraying forward. He had his brand new bike (not yet broken in) idling for 15 minutes in the parking lot . We got underway and within 5 minutes he had a flameout. Couldn't get it started and wore the battery down to almost nothing. So Mark and I pushed him for a bump start. 5 minutes later another flameout. That's when I pulled up next to him and told him to put it into neutral, don't give it any gas while cranking. It eventually fired up. But the flameouts and starting issues were so frequent that those guys eventually just quit and headed home.

'New' Husky team on th ball, Moto?

Cosmo, that would have burned me up!!!
I would be at the dealer's door 8am getting it sorted

Ha! He bought it on-line for $7400. He got a good deal on a very nice bike with a bad ticker.

Oops

At least the KTM/Berg/Husky ecus aren't locked (well unless USA ones are different, that is)
Heaps of tuners over here to play with them in Oz.