2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

I'm still having issues so I've also completed the mod as per the OP, come on weekend, hurry up so I can test it out!

you are going to love it. My friend yesterday couldn't believe the Improvement ....

If your running Map 3 is there any problem if I run 20 miles down the road? Are the high revs plus the map 3 an issue or just issue for the emissions?

I think you are asking if sustained high RPM whist running Map 3 (assuming mode B) is an issue. The answer is no, if anything running Mode B of Map set #3 is better for your engine, given its richer A/F ratio. Yes, Mode A is for emissions and leans the engine out quite a bit.

When I had my 511 I remember posing the question of removing the top butterfly then Tinken said bad idea. Glad it's working out for those who did this mod. Not sure who blazed the path here . Seen 24 or so pages so I just had to click on this one. No surprise here.

Check out page 1 of the post

Tinken said it was a bad idea as he had personal experience with having damaged a TE throttle body motor & didn't want people to suffer the pain of having to buy expensive parts if they made a mistake. He also talks to Husqvarna, so explaining why people are pulling parts out of bikes they built could be awkward.
All good & fair judgement.

It also makes no sense that the mapping still works on the near standard bikes like mine (just the Arka slip-on), but work it DOES and works well.
Anecdotal evidence suggests there are a few dealers over here in Aus that have done this on their race bikes also & got good results.
For the guys that have a little more done to their bike, a piggyback ecu AND the butterfly removal together is great by all accounts.

For a zero dollar mod, it has transformed my bike from unrideable (literally) to 'can't wait until the next ride'!!

cant wait either for next ride.... agreed and nuf said. !!

Thanks for the answer!!

Thanks for your time!

I'm not sure which map I have but I sent the ECU in to ZipTy last year and they remapped it for me.

Thanks. I will try that. I am kind of surprised such an important sensor like the TPS is in such an open location and is plastic secured with a single screw. Seeing as these bikes are designed for use over rough ground I'd have thought the TPS would be more securely fastened. I mean what are the chances the TPS could move a hair while the bike is being caned over bumpy ground? [/sarcasm]

I don't have a tach so accurately setting an idle is gonna be difficult. My air screw is the recommended 2.5 turns out. When the weather improves I am gonna play with it and see what effect it has on the A/F numbers.

THIS is why I got an A/F gauge. Without you are just guessing.

I also have one on my WR and once I decided to actually get the tuner sorted I discovered that the tune numbers everyone on the inter webs were accepting as gospel were actually way off. For the most part those numbers were too lean at the bottom end and way too rich at the top end. The controller settings that gave me A/F numbers in the 12-13 range ended up being mostly zero's with only the bottom end requiring any extra fuel.

Off the top of my head I don't remember the A/F number for my bike at idle but IIRC it is not lean. I get flameouts when the throttle is cracked. It takes virtually no input to the throttle and the engine instantly stops.

Agreed.
On my own bike, JUST off idle, there is a hole in the fuel map.
Like someone forgot to put some data in a box there!
Was there before all my mods, masked now after & doesn't stall/flameout now.

Been building a kit meter, but not getting enough time yo finish it off
Might just buy one & be done with it....

I am pretty happy with the ones I have. They even can be hooked up to a data logger so you can download data from test runs etc.

I tried adjusting the TPS today. Once I worked out which way to move it, it def seems to have made a difference to the idle. Moving the TPS up slightly seemed to smooth out the idle and even increased the idle speed slightly. I need to get the bike out and ride it now. I guess I should do a TPS reset as well.

I wouldn't do the TPS reset myself.
It is the new value that the ecu is seeing they I believe helps, not sure if it will revert or help?!?
Haven't tried it as yet myself, but at least on my own bike, it never used to make any change to the running.