2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

I think we were all agreeing he is exemplary

Same on mine.. after removing the Butterfly , you have to set the Idle new or the Bike will run like a bag of crap. I just did another Butterfly removal for a dude on a Fb Dirt rider Group. They just had a go at him , and he was about to ditch the 449. There are so many unhappy 449/511 owners out there.
I meet constantly Guys who owned a 449 or 511 and sold it. Just because of the known issues.
-to lame even XR 400 pull harder
-flame out
- no engine braking
-dead throttle
-hot start issues
-crap stock suspension set up. at least on the front.
-shit dealer support.


the name of this Bike is not worth much here in OZ. Really the messed it up at the Factory (BMW and Husqvarna) I do understand why numbers dropped and no ones wants those bikes.
Once you ride a bike with all the mods done and a proper Suspension setup , you dont want to ride another stock 449 / 511.

The Smile on the Face of someone who wanted to ditch the Bike after you do a Butterfly removal says it all !! Even his buddy said that after twisting the throttle once on the bike.

Some new info on the mods.


In the original post, I mentioned how I have readjusted my primary TPS to richen the maps. (Known as map-shifting)
In the post, I did it by 'ear' finding the smoothest running, turning the TPS as you would a mixture screw on a carb.
I also mentioned that I wanted to get some factory style plugs to make up a test loom & give you all a TPS voltage to aim for, but I had trouble buying small enough quantities of the plugs (less than 500).

Motosportz posted up a link to a guy who supplies KTM tps test looms (also Keihin efi).
I'm happy to report that his test lead is perfect for this & I'll stick the link in the original post.

-http://www.tpstool.com/ (Use the one with 3 pins in a line for EXC with EFI)




For my bike, the best running without the butterfly in & the Akro slip-on muffler is an idle setting of 0.8v .
This works sweet for my local conditions, no flameouts, nice fat power & can even crack the throttle to full at idle without hesitation.

I'd definitely recommend getting the plug set & try adjusting the settings on your own bike, as I believe it to be half the trouble with stalling issues!!

To use the test lead set -

- Have the ignition (Run switch) turned off (Do NOT turn power on with any plugs disconnected)!
- Disconnect the lower TPS wiring plug from the sensor & connect it to the lead set, plug the other end of the lead set into the TPS sensor.
- Start & run the engine.
- Switch your multimeter to Volts DC (Have it on a setting that will cope with at least 5.0v as there is a signal of 5v in one pin of the plug)
- Place the Earth lead of the multimeter on a good earth on the bike, I chose the cylinder head.
- Place the Positive lead into the pins one at a time until you find the low voltage reading (Less than 1.0 v).
- Compare to the the factory setting which is 0.7v.
- As mentioned above, mine runs sweetest at 0.8v, this is achieved by undoing the locking screw & moving the TPS.
- While you are there, check the 5.0v signal is very close to 5v, mine was 5.01v. (This can indicate power or earth problems to the ECU if incorrect)

** Note. If you move the sensor too far while adjusting, the ecu will cut fuel at idle. If this happens, move it back & begin again **

Here's a pic of the primary TPS

Cool. Mine stock was .62 or so. I tried .5x and it was a little worse, currently at about .70 and its pretty good, consistent as far as starting goes. Higher seems better as a general rule.

David, did you order that connector ?

Yes, it came in about 10 days.

I just couldn't track down small quantities of the plugs to make my own.
You can buy them, but they were asking for lots of 500 or so.....
Even if I sold a few it wouldn't have covered the cost.

Yes, higher voltage is richer, at least until it cuts out.

My theroy is that there is a limit of voltage increase allowed with no increase in rpm before the system programming shuts off fuel.
- I.E. TPS voltage up but no more air introduced [throttle not opened]

I will post up the cut off voltage when I'm back at home again & have time with the bike once more.

sounds interesting as my bike has now gone from no problem with stalling at all, race map 2 butterfly removed standard exhaust. to full titanium arrow race exhaust system with lots of flame outs always when you really don't want one lol. anyone heard/tried a rapid bike easy fuel management system? lots cheaper than pcv.

There's another rider on here with an Arrow pipe who found it limiting top end enough to stop the bike going to the limiter in the taller gears.
With regard to the stalling, you my be able to adjust the TPS to compensate as detailed above....

Haven't seen the Rapid set-up before, do you know if they list the TE449/511 series. Had a look on their site but the bike list isn't working.....

I finally decided to give the Butterfly removal mod a try not that my bike was running poorly or lacking in power. I guess I just wanted to see what all the rage was about.
I also finally got my forks dialed. New Race Tech stiffer springs and Race Tech Gold Valve kit. Needless to say, I was dying to check out what affect the BF mod would have
on it and to try out my newly dialed forks so I took Friday off from work and headed up to Foresthill.
I really didn't notice any difference in power or response. It did seem to sound a little different, I think. I'm not in any way discounting it's effectiveness and given the fact that I've been spending most of my time lately
riding the WR300, the 511 felt kinda sluggish overall. The forks were flat out amazing. I don't know why I waited so long to finally get them done but wow...what a difference. Night and day.
I got in about three and a half hours of fun trails and saw a bear, which was pretty cool. He was about 30 yards away and hauled ass across the trail and into brush. Was hoping my GoPro would've captured it but it didn't.
Here's a clip from the ride anyway. It was dry and dusty,rocky and thick silt in some areas.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbShjeklXvI&list=UULTcPir9hLIM0LjjKMQ8qdw

I've had the same thought with the FBW motor, Moto.

I'd say the ECU doesn't log codes (As 'fail') other than maybe open circuit for the motor.
It obviously doesn't log for the shaft being 'out of position' as the dead-throttle issue should bring up a Fail.
I will grab my new test loom & see if I can do some 2nd TPS voltage testing on my own bike. None of the electronic side has been touched on mine, only the butterfly.
9880sts sent through the voltage range for the very similar BMW G450X, worth a look.

Finally got out for a ride for after removing the BF,to be honest i didn't notice a big difference from before,it seemed the bike run better overall but not that i had any complaints or problems before,the only thing i've changed was JD settings went one setting reacher across the board.Most of the riding was fighing muddy hills first or second gear and never stalled on me once unlike my mates WR,KLX,BETTA which all had bigger problems getting their bikes to track,and using a fresh Bridgestone 403 at the front helped aswell.I've tried the 80 profile instead of the 90 which to me it felt much better absorbing rocks, much steadier overall .

Just a quick questions With the tc/txc511 2012 aribox lid fit thie 2011 SMR511? i dont want to really drill holes in the one i got..

Just do it. Nothing to loose or fear by drilling holes.

Thanks for all the good info DM.
Can anyone post of picture of the exact locking screw to adjust the TPS voltage. I've bought the TPS test loom, but a bit unsure of what to adjust.

Here is the pic of the primary TPS.

Thanks DM, that makes a heap more sense. I was looking on the other side but could find anything that wasn't also going to adjust the butterfly.