2012 TE310 Dreaded Starter

Unfortunately I am old & lazy with a fondness of the button. Order that sprag clutch from Poland and it will actually be here on Monday half price. Trenchcoat85 has been exceptionally kind to me and found a puller and that eBay listing. Stand up guy. Zip Ty no longer carries the holder now I just need to order a new keyway. Thanks for everyone's imput.

Humour for the day ..my buddy who rides one of those funny-looking orange bikes said it's really good that all of us are willing to help one another cuz this kind of stuff's going to get harder to find in the future but then in the next breath said I bet you there's a Yugo Forum somewhere with a bunch of suckers trying to keep them on the road also.

Hey Snoho-

R_Little brought a couple of good points. Before you start to reassemble everything, you probably should first lap your flywheel to the crankshaft, and then use locktite- and more than the recommended torque (70ft/lbs?? can't remember).

actually, read this thread (well, the last 60 posts): http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2011-te-310-sheared-keys-non-start.86537/page-2#post-613361

I got your paypal but the shipping was just under $14; when you're done we'll get a refund for you.

Speaking of which... when you send those puller/tools back, if you do not have a use for your old sprag, throw it in there too. I like to debug stuff and even try to bring back alive. 'Specially sensors and electronics.

Upate #2. Finally had time to take it all apart and it appears the ring gear destroyed itself and does not want to separate from the flywheel. Is it that simple as just punching it from the front side through the flywheel. I have a new sprag clutch so I'm hoping I'll just need a new ring gear? The positives Husqvarna put this flywheel on really well and the worm gear and assembly all seems straight and in working order.

Hey ho <snicker>-

good to see you got the flywheel off, but by the looks of things the sprag is stuck inside holding everything tight. We're past my limited experience now. I'm wondering if you could put the flywheel in a soft vise and tap the sprag in the opposite direction to see if the "dog bones" will let loose. Or even put a wrench on the broken ring gear.

you might be able to get at a dog bone or two from one side or the other... maybe you could knock it back so it retracts. I got a feeling you'd only need to have a couple of 'em loosened up for that sprag to fall out of the flywheel.

Try to see if there are any loose or out-of-line dog bones hanging around; if so, see if you can work 'em out.

it'd probably be hard, but as a last resort you could cut/grind the ring gear hub.

A machinist with an EDM could get that out in 5 minutes- but I don't even know if those things are around anymore.

Hopefully the flywheel has not been gouged and can be reused.

anybody got any ideas on how to remove the ring gear hub?

The sprag clutch will slip in one direction so you should be able to twist it off the flywheel (might need a vice and slip jaws on the busted ring gear)
Then source a new ring gear and re-assemble. Check the retaining spring inside the sprag clutch. If it is stretched then it will need replacing. Check out the post on http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/sprag-clutch-part-numbers.41148/

If you have trouble sourcing the Husky part then try a sprag clutch from a 2005 honda crf250x (part number 28125-MT7-004). Turns out it's a common OEM item used in lots of makes of bike.

I have a flywheel and ring gear seized up on my work bench for 3 years that I have not been able to separate!
I've tried punches, heat, vices long bars drills etc and nothing worked.
if you figure out a way to get it apart please let me know.

The most expensive part there is the flywheel.

Success! Took the flywheel to work & it soon was a topic of discussion. Picture four late 60s guys who's theory is if it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. 5 minutes later it's out, 24 oz hammer & punch with 30 alternating taps. I did tell them if it breaks or gouges you bought it. My dad & the cronies walked off like they invented the wheel. The new parts will be here October 4 so I'll update then. Appreciate everyone's input.

FYI fact is , if there is any galling or roller evidence marks at all on the flywheel sprag race..it is a call to reject the assy.
I went through this on my 2013 TXC310R. Together with my expert pro mech for reference we went over a Kawasaki bulletin concerning this same issue on one of their bikes , what I saw in my sprag and flywheel was exactly what Kawasaki called out on their bulletin, fortunate for me at the time was the full cooperation with my dealer/sponsor's warranty tech writer and I got the entire assy factory new. They acknowledged a problem in surface tempering on the flywheel. Its a little late for all that now...this was still within a short time of purchase in my case.
Here I found a picture of the inside of the flywheel, the sprag race.


amazing to me that this caused so much PITA starting issues, that sprag needs a super smooth surface to work properly.

Looks good.

Just for grins, run your finger around the inside of the flywheel where the sprag rides and also where the keyway/crankshaft fit. Look for burrs and gouges etc.

Dry fit the new sprag too.

Congrats!

Whoops- Robert got in a minute under me.

With my bike the minor galling had no effect on starting. The issue was the stretched spring. It needs to hold the pawls firmly against the flywheel. Once the starter turns, the pawls rotate to expand and lock up to drive the flywheel.

The flywheel shows wear but no apparent galling. I can feel some with my finger tips but not my finger nails. A lot of damage and galling occurred to the ring gear hub.I'll clean up the flywheel with compound & dry fit it. Fingers crossed.

that surface looks to be unacceptable and rejected, your bike your call. when you look at the flywheel you can see the heat discoloration from the hard temper area, it has that purpleish color. They told me there was a materials/metal treatment issue on mine along with batch of others that were not properly heat treated. you also need to visualize the flywheel at 8000 rpm with the sprag rollers riding inside free rolling with all those micro sized bumps bouncing the rollers around, then the rollers digging into the wave grooves under starter cranking and getting hung up, causing negative torque to the starter. that surface needs to be hard and smooth. your call.

bad sprag race on an Aprilia note same type of evidence marking from the sprag rollers.

bad sprag race KTM, same evidence marks from sprag rollers. if its not smooth its a fail item.

You make a strong point and you're probably right , I would be curious to see what a 5 year old flywheel looks like that can be reused. I cleaned it up with coumpound & it's pretty smooth obviously not brand new smooth and the Freewheel dropped right in. I think I'll give it a try ,worst case I'm out the $ for the freewheel , best case it last. Bonus is I will know exactly what it is and replacing it will go much quicker. Thanks for taking the time to post those pictures and hopefully you won't be able to say I told you so.

Following with interest and amazed at how you guys came together on this problem. Newbie question regarding the Motion Pro 4 stroke spark plug tool. Is this it, the 5/8" version:

https://smile.amazon.com/Motion-Pro...encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8

Yes it is and worth every penny. I too am amazed at all the help I received including trenchcoat mailing me his flywheel puller and holder without me even sending him money. I PayPal him shipping cost plus some beer money and he insulted me by wanting to refund it. Who passes up free beer. Sorry couldn't help myself trenchcoat. This is an excellent forum.

shit- I can't drink beer (much) anymore... it kills my stomach. Whiskey, OTOH