250-500cc 2012 wr300 kickstart issue

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6gCuYoYseI

+1 for the Vid!
My 2011 was physically hard to kick until i did a couple of rides. Don't stress it will loosen up + technique no problem!

Anyone know which jets I should be using in my 2012 wr300? I don't race but ride in the woods every weekend or so.I live in Connecticut so I ride mainly in the summer.I have been reading other posts and people have been saying they have been seizing these bikes up because the factory jets were too lean. Got a few jets with the bike since I bought it new. Any suggestions would be helpfull.

I dont know if I should look at my jetting but I put the Pro circuit pipe and silencer on (Glenn Kearney WORKS pipe) and I run the mix a little heavy at 32:1 with Klotz oil. No dribbling, easy start, and almost impossible to stall out. I never touched the carb except for kicking the idle up high enough so the bike wouldnt stall at idle.
Any thoughts out there?
Thanks

Yeah mine can be a bit tricky. Luckily my previous bike was wr250 so at least I'm used to the short kick start.

I am convinced that the stock pilot jet in the 300s is way too rich. I have a bunch on order (just got my bike last week), so I will report back.

Mine starts with no choke in cold weather, and if I kick it with the choke on, it just seems to foul the plug. When it's hot I have to crack the throttle to start it.

In addition, the factory pilot in the 250 is a 40, and the spec sheet on Husky's website says that the pilot jet in a 300 is a 35. Parts list confusingly says it's a 35 and a 45.

I saw a post on here from someone else that said all of the kickback issues went away when he leaned out the pilot. My local dealer said they went to a 40 on the other WR they sold this year and it helped the kickback.

Older CR250s used a TMX carb as well (older version, but still, same jets) and they run like a 32.5-35 pilot jet. Seems hard to believe that our bikes would need a 45...

The jetting in my 300 was too lean when I got my bike and it always started first or second kick. I have a 50 pilot and a 440 main now and it still starts up within 3 kicks when cold and usually first kick when hot. I think being taller helps with kick starting any bike, especially the WR's. I kick start just like braddenning did in the video. There has been a few times when others have had problems starting their bikes and I get on it and start them within a few kicks, except for a buddy's YZ450F, that thing was a biotch to start when it was hot. Some people attack the kickstarter like they are trying to stomp out a fire. You need to feel what the engine is doing.

Just wanted to follow up my previous post. For the record, my bike is a 2012 WR 300, brand new, probably 1 mile on it, not even broken in yet.

Problem/Symptoms: Bike was a BITCH to start. Cold, with the choke on, it would foul the plug (or at least wet it pretty bad). Would start cold with no choke, if I opened the throttle after fouling everything up. Hot, it was also a bitch to start, and would act like it was flooded even if I just hit the kill switch at idle (had to open the throttle and kick like hell). Last night I messed with it (jetting still stock) and I bet it took e 20 kicks to get it started.

Solution: I swapped a 35 pilot jet in today (and a new spark plug). Cold, with the choke on, it started on the 2nd or 3rd kick (I'm a crappy kicker). I let it warm up and rode it around the yard, felt good, response good, and if I hit the kill, I can easily start it in 1-2 kicks.

I messed with the air screw some, started at 1 turn out, and it idles higher with the screw 2 turns out. I haven't gone past this yet. It is possible that I could go even smaller on the pilot, but it is ok for now, I will mess with it more later.

I wonder, if Husky did a better job jetting this bike stock, would as any people feel the need to switch over to the Keihin carb? I may switch eventually, but for now it is ok to ride!

Any chance you have a vacuum leak, say at the reed cage or something? Or a partially clogged pilot circuit? That is a really big pilot jet...

After reading everybody's jetting on the 300 here I figured there must be something wrong. I've checked with starting fluid for a vacuum leak. I also installed gaskets on both sides of the reed cage and also used sealant. If the pilot circuit is partially blocked it would have had to come like that from the dealer. It had a lean bog with the 45 and runs great with the 50. I plan on making a DIY pressure tester, but haven't got around to it yet.

I have a 2011 300 WR and it ran horribly when I bought it new. I learned the dealer didn't set it up properly. I called Hall's Cycles in Springfield, MO, and talked to a mechanic there. He told me how to set up the carburetor properly. Here's what he told me to do: your bike came with some extra jets which you referenced in your post. You should install the 45 pilot jet, 430 main jet, and use the extra needle that came with the jets with the clip in the middle position. The air screw should be 1.5 turns out. Use a 40:1 fuel to oil mixture (I use Spectro oil). This set up worked well for me. I later replaced the 430 main with a 420 and it worked better. I live in Maryland and ride in the woods on weekends like you; our riding conditions and climate are similar. Good luck!

Careful. 2011s and 2012s are quite different when it comes to factory installed jetting.

The 2012s come factory with the "right" jetting; 45 pilot, 420 main, GAY needle 3rd clip, #4 slide.

However, I (and quite a few others) believe that this is WAY too rich on the pilot side. I've gone down to a 35 pilot and am still 2 turns out on the air screw, and it's currently 40 degrees here and I'm at sea level, so it will only get richer when summer comes around (or I ride higher). I think I will try swapping in a 32.5 to give me some more adjustment range on the air screw...

In no way can I guarantee performance, but the 35 pilot, GAY on the middle clip, and the 420 main seem to be working for my bike. My fuel mileage isn't great (hit reserve at 55 miles on a moderate pace trail ride), but otherwise the bike runs fine. I too a scared of the stories of bikes seizing with factory jetting, but I hope they were isolated cases where something else went wrong...

Thanks for the info

Tried to ride my bike this weekend and it wouldn't start. Choke on, kicked it forever, never started, turned the choke off the clear it out, changed the plug (wet and nasty), never got it running. I eventually gave up, and the bottom of my foot is still sore today.

I gave up and called Motosportz and ordered a PWK carb. I really hope it makes the bike easier to deal with, because I love the thing otherwise.

I have that carb on my 09. I have been very happy. It is real easy to dial in and not tempermental at all. I hope that solves your issues. FWIW, my bike starts 1st kick, almost always.

Yeah, I think it ought to work well.

I also ordered the new JD jetting kit for the TMXX, so I will try that first and see how it compares. Hopefully I will be able to make some recommendations to other guys who are having similar problems.

Easy for him...he is 6'5" with 34" inseam.....

Try it when you are 5'6" with 30" inseam.

The tip over till gas pisses trick does work though...also your left foot should be in front of the footpeg too.

Something else that comes to mind here. Those of you coming off 4 strokes, it seems (I had a Kawi 450) that a full stroke is more important than speed. I feel a 2 stroke likes speed in the kick as well as the full stroke. (sounds a little dirty reading it back to myself )

Yes, kick it like a mule. I can see where the vertically challenged would have issues.