250-500cc 2012 WR360 Project

Absolutely, I'm going to try to get some video of it Sunday at the race (we'll see if I can convince my dad or brother to video the start). Should be able to get some good outside shots of it as well. I may be able to get a go pro mounted up and run a practice lap, but no promises on that. I've got plenty of people excited to see it...and to take if for a ride.

2premo, yeh i got that 93 cylinder a while ago its on my shelf with a lovely wossnor piston ready for a swap at end of season with current one... if its that easy to kick maybe i womt need de comp head.

yes post pics vids and anything else you want i love my 360 the grunt is awesome hope it compares to your 300 and it doesnt put you off putting the new old motor right

msmith345....venhill teflon coated clutch cable coupled with an MSR Raptor ezy pull is the best clutch setup (IMO) for the 360 in terms of the clutch pull. Also, try and route it away from the exhaust and regular spray silicone spray and you won't need Arnie's forearms (sticky cable spray or chain lube is crap as it attracts too much dirt).

Love the project, just finishing up my own little swap between a 95 WR360 and 2001 WR250 (might post in your thread if you don't mind).

I really don't like the feel of the MSR raptors. My brother had one on his KX 85, it's just not a very ergonomic lever. I might go that cable route, but it looks like they are not longitudinally wound? How's the cable flex compared to stock? Have you used the Motion Pro terminator cables? The silicone spray I'm definitely going to start doing. I can see that making a huge difference in clutch pull.

Definitely, don't mind if you post about it in here. What kind of issues have you run into along the way?

I see a lot of opinions on clutch cables and levers etc.
currently running a Motion Pro Terminator on both the 93 and 99 360, they both have the Domino lever and are easy to pull
most of the people that check out my bike comment on how easy the clutch pull is
now on the lube side I use dry graphite, a major pain in the butt, still it's worth the hassle as it makes it smoother and does not attract dirt so it stays smooth

dry graphite? ive got images of you sharpening pencils down into your cables now
i dont lube mine i just make sure the rubbercovers are ziptied in place, ive got a venhill teflon cable and that made the clutch puppy smooth, im not sure how much my cable flexes and tbh i dont care as its not a hard pull and its not like the cable routing doesnt make it move allover the place anyway..
p,s, cables stretch and fray that was why my old cable was so tough.

Well, first real ride and race on the 360 yesterday. That bike is gonna kill me. Stands straight up in 5th gear. Endless torque, had some monster hill climbs, and the dang thing would dang near idle right up them.

The engine is a lot of extra weight. I regret not weighing it before I dropped it in the frame. But the extra weight is noticeable when muscling the bike around. More importantly, the extra weight is felt in the forks and braking. I thought surely I was going to cook my brakes, but they held out for the race. On the forks, I'm going to have to go up a stiffness for sure.

This thing is crazy fast. Like stupid, crazy fast. Once I re-dial in the suspension, I'm going to have to learn to embrace the brute that it is. I did not steal the holeshot, had I practiced a few starts I would've realized I was going to need to be in 3rd gear from the dead engine start. In 2nd it was fighting to come up to hard right off the line and I went into the woods in 4th. Needless to say, this was a test run and I wasn't really out there racing anyone and my results were not stellar, but I got some notes from it which is what I planned to do. The bike held together for 2 hours, but I need to get a new clutch cable ASAP, stiffer fork springs and repack the silencer.

The exhaust I can see will continue to be an issue for me on this. I will probably keep running it as is for now, hoping a repack will get me down to approved sound levels for the OKC National Enduro. After this test run, I do think I'm going to move forward with the 300 rebuild over the winter, putting the extra 6 speed in it and the earlier ignition system. The 300 has plenty of power and combine that with the 6 speed and I think it will really be the sweet setup for me. I've gotten very used to the 300 and can manage it for 6+ hours of ride time without getting worn out, I'm thinking I'd be doing really well to make 3 hours on the 360.

I've got a couple closer up shots of the engine to upload after work.

Man...Awesome!

Like I said that 92 motor is Brutal...they really dulled them down later on. The power valve is totally different on that barrel.

Been hanging for your ride report!

Cheers

Stu

The venhill cable is called a featherlight cable which is teflon coated inner cable, as far as longitudinally wound i don't known but they are pretty flexible so l don't think they are coil wound.
I know minimising the bends on the cable helps with the action but try to avoid the cable slipping down the power valve cover and resting near the S bend on the exhaust.

Issues, nothing so far as the 250 frames and the 360 are near identical, the only hassle is changing over the airbox boot.

The motion pro cables are linear or "longitudinally wound"

funny but I thought there was only a couple pounds of difference between them, like 2 or 3
the 360 and 250 engines share some components but not all, so in 92 the 250 was a couple pounds lighter and the 250 engine is quite literally the same as the new 250, just slightly tweaked, but as I recall same base engine, in 2002 the last 360 came out and it was again a couple pounds heavier, the 300 is based off the 250 as on overbore kit originally, what is the actual weight difference? does anyone have the exact weight of these?, now about the power there is a HUGE difference and it is flatter than the 250 but huge regardless, so the rotating mass of a 360 vs. a 300 will give you a gyroscopic weight feeling that is dramatically heavier in motion as inertia, inertia is huge but back to the weight issue you have me thinking if I go an a diet,,,,,,,,,,,,,

tyres with helium, run half a tank of gas, cut bar length down, cut levers titanium anything thats not carbon and you will have wasted a ton of money trying to make up for complete lack of skill. (in my case anyway)

or in my case, or at least at my age

Weight wise just lifting the bike around it's gotta be a fair amount. The piston weight difference from the 300 to the 360 is a large amount in itself. I'd guess the total difference between the two is 5-10 pounds. The crank is a good deal heavier as well. When I get around to rebuilding the 300, I'll put them both on a scale to see what the difference is, but on the bike its definitely noticeable.

about 6 or 7 pounds

Well, it looks like Motion Pro doesn't have any 360 cables in stock (and won't for 2-3+ months). So, my only option for getting a terminator cable would be to send them:
1. Stock 360 cable
2. Stock 360 lever/perch
3. ASV lever perch
4. An extended length measurement.

Well, the 360 cable is cut, and the bend is being used already and the ASV lever is being used. Turnaround time is 10-11 working days excluding shipping time. All for a reasonable price, but that's 3 weeks down time.

So, it looks like the Venhill one will have to do. It looks like it's all basically cable kits that they sell. Is this what you guys are using? http://www.venhillusa.com/Universal...iversal-Motorcycle-Clutch-Cable-Kit-p696.html Then just using the stock cable bend?

Take a look at a 9-12 CRF450 clutch cable. It might work for you.

which 360 cable are you looking for?
dealers have them in stock my local dealer has these

Basically, what I need is the 2012 300 cable, with the metal bend in if from the 360 cable, so it clears the coolant line.

Right now, I removed the ends, cut some of the sheathing off the 300 cable to compensate for the metal bend. Then put it all back together. It works for now, but I really need to replace the cable pretty soon. I didn't do the best job on it, and with how much the cable casing flexes when I pull in the clutch, it's a not doing as good of a job as it could be. So, it's a picky thing, I mean it works as is, but I'd like to have it be "just right" since the bike is going to do a good enough job of wearing me down during a race, I don't really want to worry about not being able to clutch late in the day.