2013 TE310r Electric start issues

Good to hear.
What oil/filter are you using ?

CASTROL POWER 1 RACING 10W-50 and HiFlo filtro 4-pack I bought off ebay.

Thanks for the answer.
My Husky TE 310 (2011) doesn´t start hot or cold, with e-starter. It seems, like it couldn´t turning over the engine. First, i thought, the battery is dead. But it wasn´t, because the issue stays even with a new battery. With kick it starts anythime without any problems. This week, i´ll check the starter solenoid, connections, valves clearance and starter gears.

Valve clearance and starter gears were the magic combination for me, mainly the starter gears. Before then, each time I did something like clean electrical connections, change battery, & do valve adjustment, it would be OK for a few hours and then back to snuff.

Your bike being a 2011, how many hours do you have on it? no harm in checking the ring and pinion gears. I think the improved hardened gears were post 2011 so you could have the older ones. That said I'd guess the issues is the starter. It's not really hard to open up the starter and take a look at that as well. If you find the cap area that holds the brushes is cracked and broken the starter will need to be replaced as well. They also improved the starters at some point but even the newer can't take the heat well and if they get locked into the spring and spin with the motor the heat melts the plastic very quickly.

Joe

Bike has ~110 hours. We´ll check the starter.
The issue begins about 5h hours back. Firts it starts on first touch of e-starter. Than sometimes it starts and sometimes not. Now, it doesn´t start at all. In all cases i´m talking about cold engine start.

When you say it's not starting with the starting.Is the starter just clicking or struggling to spin? or is the bike just not starting. If the starter is having a hard time. I would check the starter. Have you had any issues with the starter getting stuck engaged? That can happen when you give it gas wile you're starting it. The engine starts faster then the sprang can react to disengage and the engine spins the starter overheating the plastic cone where the brushes are. If it's real bad the sprang can fuse to the pinion gear but most often it just hangs up then frees up.

Last weekend we checked the starter. Ring and pinion geaars are in perfect condition, but there was some dirt around brushes. Nothing was broken, or demaged. We cleaned that and checked all the connections. Hopefully, that was the issue. Since than, engine starts again on e-starter. So far, so good ....

Wow that's good news.

I am having similar issues on my 2013 model te310r. The starter would just "click" like it was a dead battery. I checked the battery and it is fine. Next I checked all the electrical pieces and they appear normal. Today I pulled the starter to inspect the worn gear and starter motor. No issue on the worm gear and you can feel the starter motor spin when you turn the worm gear. I disassembled the starter motor and found some debris. Some metal flakes and carbon. I have seen completely burnt starters and it is not that bad. I cleaned everything up and re-assembled all the parts. Put the starter back on the bike and connected all electrical.

Push the start button and all I hear is the starter motor spinning freely. Does not seem to be engaging. I assume I missed something in re-assembly. Pull it all down, check and re-assemble. Same result. Push button and the starter spins, no engagement.

What am I missing?

Thanks

So after you pulled the starter the clicking stopped but now it's spinning without engaging? I agree have a look at the keyway but I can't see that being the issue for the clicking of the relay. Maybe a bad connecting at the starter or the relay and when you replaced the starter a better connection was made?.

Continuing down this road, and got a good look at the gear inside the case, and it is horribly worn. I am hoping to get this fixed under warranty as I don't have the tools to pull the flywheel.

i would need to dig through my old part but I think even new the gear is dished like you're seeing in the picture. I would double check with you're dealer or pull it apart and better inspect it before putting out the cash for a new one. If the dealer is paying then I guess why not but if you end up flipping the bill hold off till you better inspect it.

Hard to see from that pic.

Is the gear supposed to be cupped like that?

Yes. it's cupped. I think that allows it to engage and disengage with out snagging but that's just a guess. The wear you want to look for sadly you can't see from looking down the rabbit hole. You'll need to pull the side cover and better inspect. You're looking to see wear at the machined edged of each gear/fin. They earlier ones from what I told would wear and chip. Here is some picture of the one I pulled off. You can see some slight wearing but after they were cleaned up I really don't don't think it was my issue.

I think the replacement of the starter was whats I needed. Also the knowledge that YOU CAN'T START the bike with the throttle open. What happens is the bike starts faster then the worm gear can disengage from the starter and the engine spins the starter faster then it was designed. This overheats the plastic that hold the brushes in the starter. Loose brushes cause the starter to work intermittently as they dace around in the cracked plastic. It's just a design issue that I don't think can be fixed without a new designed starter. I know the power output of the later starters were increased at some point but I don't think they address the plastic used in the starter.

This all said. there is a number of good answers to the same problem, my bike won't start when it's hot. This is just what I found when pulling mine apart.

those sprang or one way clutches as some call them can be an issue as well.. . They can be cleaned and inspected. Don't just run out and replace.

Did you get this sorted? My 310 is doing the same after I pulled and cleaned the starter.

Can you explain this a bit more? I will try and check this on mine tomorrow.