2013 TE310r Electric start issues

Yes - I must have assembled the starter 180 degrees from where it should be, I took it apart and lined up the markers (did not do this first time, oops).

Long story short, still not fixed completely and punting. Pulling the starter, installing a blocking plate and making it kick only now.

Bill is talking about the starter, Woodruff key and assembly. See attached pic

doh! i did the same (what a goose i feel!). thanks for the tip

now when i put it back together (the right way), and test it, it spins as it should but when i put it back on the bike it tries to turn it over for a few seconds then stops working at all. the bike clicks but the starter wont work. when i pull the starter again and test it it works again but then the process is repeated. almost feels like a dodgy battery but i have it jumped off another so that cant be it. can starters lose power when they are shot?

any ideas?

thanks for the help.

how long do you need to wait before the starter will work again. If you're doing this in the shop did you put a volt meeter on the battery or a charger on it. Maybe see if the battery is just taking a hit from all the use you've been getting?

When you say it just stops is the starter binding, or just not starting. when you had everything out. Did you ding into the flywheel and sprang?

Change the temp sensor on the back of the cylinder. Order 2 of them so you have a spare. The bike will not start with the button hot when it is in gear. Make certain it's in neutral and your temp sensor is working and it should start.

I didn't read the last couple of posts. I'd bet your starter motor is bad.

thanks for the replies. been a bit busy to have much more of a look but just tried again now and when i remove the starter and test it out of the motor it works/spins as it should but will not turn the motor over when i install it again. i just get the clicking relay noise.

so i guess a new starter is on the cards? i cant seem to find a brush/repair kit for these. im just baulking at replacing it until im 100% sure as they cost $450 here!

cheers

Bensi... Have you done the decompressor? The starter will click if meets too much resistance/compression. The kicker will also be stiff. If you have not tightened the appropriate shim, I can almost guarantee it's the issue. Keep it simple... Nothing really complicated with this since the spec from Husky was just not adequate for the decompressor IMO. You could start replacing parts and end up with the same issue so worth doing this first. Along with the more hardened warranty parts, tighter exhaust valve and an EarthX battery all problems starting went away 2500 miles ago for me and I'm sure many others.

sorry, can you elaborate on this? im not sure what you mean.

cheers

The decompressor may not be being activated and requires the valve shim for the associated valve be one shim tighter so it does activate. This will allow the starter to turn the engine over. While the valve tightness may be within spec you will want to get it to the tighter end of spec and see if results are different. Even though the starter design may be not the most robust, if you can make sure the decompressor is working and use a strong battery, such as the EarthX that provides a bit more power than stock, the starter should be a non issue. Took awhile for me to learn this after dealer tried everything.. warranty parts, etc... I finally requested they check them again 200 miles later at the end of my warranty period, and my problems (identical to yours) went away.

Spec was .20 for Exhaust and my left exhaust was .229. One shim tighter solved it.

Hi
Any suggestion where can I buy the e starter gear kit?

How do the gears currently in the bike look? I wouldn't change without seeing them. It sure sounds more like the starter then the gears. Running the starter on the bench isn't the same as in the bike.

I'm sure your parts guy has sold a few starters aw well.

Joe

I got mine at the dealer. I've got a picture of the gear kit somewhere in this thread...and then you can do a search on the part #

Hi,
I have problems with e-starter, again. Did anyone try to rewind it? To make it stronger?
Obviously, the only problem is, that it couldn´t turn the compression. And yes, I´ll check valve clearance.

@Johnrg: What´re the spec., that you suggest them? For intake 0,15, as fabricated? For exhaust you said one shim tighter? That is 0,05? So, the valve clerance for all 4 valves should be 0,15?

I looked over a good deal, maybe 10 junk starters at Central Jersey Cycles. It's the plastic cone where it holds the brushes seems to deteriorate from the heat and causes most failures. I seem a few people post about having the starters rebuilt but no one has followed up on that.

All Day, See what the exhaust valve actually is. Go from there. Not suggesting using the intake spec. Problem for me was being 2/3 of a shim increment loose. Being 1/3 on the tighter side worked. They do sell single shims at smaller intervals. Having one may allow you to nail the spec.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/922/26634/Pro-X-Valve-Shim

hi all is there a difference in a standard drive gear and a upgrade I.E. colour or something to know if upgrade has been done

Hi my dealer tells me that the bike I bought off them this week has had the up grade kit fitted but on inspection because of a crack in pinion housing the fly wheel is worn badly and pinion appears to be ok. Do you know if there is a difference in the standard fly wheel and drive gear compared to the upgrade kit. I.E. colour or something to know if upgrade has been done. Many thanks