2013 TE310r Electric start issues

I'm not a gear expert but maybe there was an alignment issue when the original gears were cut from the factory (Misaligned/Binding) because mine were not at all that bad for being 'worn' but 50-75% of the time they would not even spin my motor over and the new gears start the bike almost instantly! As for a coating I'm not sure that would last but maybe re-hardened like a knife might do the trick, heat..oil.. and quench or whatever they do or forgot to do!! LOL

Teflon has a tensile strength of 1310 - 4350 psi and a coefficient of friction to 0.06. My coatings have a tensile strength of 400,000 psi and a coefficient of 0.04.

Tinken, if I buy the gear set from you can you treat them before you ship them?

Yes. We may still be experiencing phone issues. For orders, email Kim@ZipTyRacing.com.

Set exhaust decomp to 005/006 and it will spin up a lot easier people

Trust me do it or u will eat more gears/starters eventually

Hi,

how is your starter after few months? Is it still working well?
If I´m correct, you just changed the gears? Starter remained original one?
What about valve clearance? Did you set it, as recommended here on forum, or you have factory settings?

Hi I changed mine and I changed the starer as well, back in the summer , and so far so good! Hoping it remains the same! Its much nicer having the E-Start back!

I changed my starter gears, motor (with a good used one), and sprag at 75 hrs. I just passed 200 hrs and the new parts are holding up. I rarely use the kicker, and the starter never hesitates for a second, hot or cold. I did use R_Little's advice and lightly used lapping compound & green lock-tite on the shaft and flywheel mating surface to avoid shearing the woodruff key. I also added an EarthX battery, which I believe is a huge factor in making sure this fix is successful.

I also Did R-Little's Lapping compound trick and lock-tite etc!

@Jimmy250&Cavery, thank you, guys.

Let us update again, after few months

Your quite Welcome, this forum is what helped me through it, Yep update in a few months, if u get jammed up during the work contact me.

Well, it looks like I am finally on the list of needing to work on the stater system. Symptoms started with occasional problems with hard starting/sticking when hot. Now I am at the point where it sticks and wont turn over even when cold. The bike has a fairly new lead acid battery. I am guessing this is probably the gears having worn through the coating. Also, when kicking the bike it feels like there is a drag and its kicking back. I am going to assuming this probably the sprag being stuck?? I am going to say I have about 200hrs on the bike, so I guess I am due for some issues. If I am going to dig into this I want to go ahead and address all the potential problems and have the parts on hand.

First on the list would be checking and adjusting the valves. I am I correct in saying that the clearances would tighten over time? So, in saying that, the recommendation was to set the exhaust on the tight side of the spec to make sure the auto decompression was functioning properly. And tight clearance would hold the valves open and reduce compression. So, tight valves are probably not my issue. But this needs to be done anyway, hasn't been done yet since new.

Next would be the starter, gears, and sprag. This should be a fairly straight forward remove and replace? Should I go ahead and assume the flywheel and key are done as well? I would guess the flywheel needs to come off to replace the driven gear anyway. Is it worth replacing with new, regardless of condition, just because we are there anyway? Other than needing some type of holder to tighten the flywheel, are there any other special tools needed? And I guess I need to get my hands on some lapping compound. Any tips or tricks to make this easier? Any thing to do while I am in there to improve longevity?

Looking for some input. Are my assumptions fairly sound? Anything I should add to my list?

This thread is great and will provide you with just about all you need to know, It did for me! There are a few special tools, like the fly wheel puller and flywheel holder tool. ( I used a Clutch basket tool). Yes some Lapping compound. And yes I replaced the starter as well. Yes sounds like you are on the right track! We have all been there, cant tell you how may batteries I tried thinking it was that. Keep me posted.

Hi,

Do you know the brand and model of the electric starter (TE310 2011), cause Hva is very expensive

Mitsuba ? Model ?

i see on eb.ay the the starter is the same of the CRF450X 2011 2013 ?

Thanks

Don't know of any place to get a starter besides a Husky dealer.

Hi, we have 2 310s with the same issues. One has 92 hrs, the other around 150. One has an EarthX and the other stock battery. EarthX is not making a difference. I live in Duncan SC and would like to know if you were able to fix your issues. Our model years are 2013 and 14 (Basically the same bikes. Both have the updated starter gears.) Give me a shout out sometime.

Rob

Sorry for the delay, the starter I bought was from central jersey cycles as my regular dealer was out of stock. It was around $200 I believe. Had some bad luck with no name eBay husky parts, had a fuel pump leave me stranded in the woods.

Rob according to my dealer, the 310 model is far worse than the 250 and always have these problems. I fixed my 250 and so far so good, I tried quite a few battery's as well, no battery will help unfortunately. I will help always any info u can keep me posted! Good luck!

The starter on one is relatively new. I think with both bikes the gears need to be greased or something so they will turn over. When I kick and hold the button, usually it fires right up.

Sounds like my bike until I did valves twice. No issues since. Since my 13 was new it had all the starting symptoms. Warrantied gears, valve check, etc... All prior to warranty running out. I was either going to throw the bike out my second story window or sort it. My dealer was not 100% willing to re-check the valves, but I pushed. Though in spec, went one shim tighter on the shim affecting the decomp. Been fine for 2k miles after that. The Earth X has simply offered even performance and not faded in use starting in 2+ years. Occasionally engine will stick at TDC but I won't lay on the button.... Click again and turns over. So a fine line for that valve shim but I think that is the culprit if all gears and starter are OK such as on the late 13 and 14. My dealer was quick to blame the little starter but was not of much help. Michael, AKA Tinken, was the one who said to check the valves again, so I prodded my dealer into re-checking since I don't stock shims. Stuck at .229 and went tighter. No problems since.