2013 TE310r Electric start issues

Hi Jim,
So, I managed to solve the problem, quite cheaply actually Basically, the starter relay was on its last days, so I replaced it and now it's perfect. Start and launch! I also checked the starter gears, and it seems to be in pretty good shape (see photo)...
Thank you all for the inputs. Bruno

Excellent!!! Starter gears do look great! Ride on! JC

Hi there just reading your post
When your saying changing the gears do you mean the angled part where the starter motor fits into and the starter wheel behind the flywheel

the gears that the starter engages in the motor

Hi There
Have you bought another starter gear wheel how would you know if the new one is hardened !!
My 310r Gearwheel colapsed in the middle and got another one fitted and on recent inspection just short of a year ive noticed it worn like your picture unlike my original one which had not a scratch on it where the worm has contact and its was in from new 2013, also the gears in where the motor and worm join are there updates for them and how will i know .
Cheers

I know this is old, but worth asking. My 2013 TE310R is DV000194. No warranty work done, so likely the gears are the within the bad batch. I have a call into Husky US to see if it is still possibly to get the gears and the fix.

Cheers
J

Well I got my own answer after calling Husky yesterday. It sounds like they are going to continue to honor the recall on the bikes. I have a case# for my 2013 TE310R for the starter gear (Bulletin ASB-013-020). Can't wait to get this replaced and certainly hope it cures the electric starter woes.

I’m having the exact same problem with my 2013 te310r. my dealer has installed a new starter and battery. But it’s still not turning over I called Husqvarna NA and they were no help at all, no record of any recall or warranty on the starter gear. I’m going to instruct my dealer to set the exhaust valve to .005. My question is how did you get Husqvarna to honor the recall on the starter gear. My vin is 00075, it was purchased in February 2014 so in theory the dealer should have changed it before it was sold but who knows. Husqvarna NA has no clue what I’m talking about with any of this and neither does the dealer. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!

I had called Husky, in my case Husky Canada. Advised on the starter recall as noted by BillF. Took a while from them to find the correct info, but he did get back to me with the bulletin number I posted. With my bike the only record with regard to warranty was an inquiry about a coolant issue, so it was pretty the recall had not been done. He simply stated they would continue to cover the recall.

That's the good news. My bike was repaired for free and now more often than not will start with the electric. I still get the click, click, buzz at time and will have to kick to start or to simply change the starter position then use the electric. No idea why it works some times and other times not. I have check over all leads / grounds to ensure good contact. All seems fine.

Good luck with getting your te310r fixed, hope it works out. Starter issue aside the bikes fit a niche that not too many other bikes do. Good snappy power, but no too much, fairly light bike, lower cost as compared to new bikes like the Husky FE350S, KTM 350 EXC, Beta RS.

DJ... If it clicks, don't hold the button. I cringe reading anyone have it buzz and fry it. A quick stab a second time should kick it over TDC or a kick start or bump. Now that the gears are done you do want to get the valve clearance set so only 1 out of maybe 20 starts it may click, if you are have a slight issue. Not sure if you had done so in the past so thought I'd chime in. Look at the starter as the weak link and don't let it labor. My bike had all the start issues early on but still on many stock parts including the starter itself.

Johnrg, thanks for the feedback. I have already had the starter rebuilt and exhaust valve that controls the decomp mech set. I agree on the holding the button. If it clicks I let it go, don't want to burn out another starter. Sometimes giving it a kick will either start it or will allow the starter to work.

Kind of frustrating the starter does not always work, but getting used to it. Liking everything else on the bike. Still have the odd stall as I continue to work on learning to better feathering the clutch and throttle for slow speed technical riding.

Well the electric starter saga on my 2013 TE310R continues. I had ordered in another starter relay, thinking, maybe it's not working or partially faulty as noted by another post earlier on.. Did some reading up on testing the circuit and now realize the issue is still with the starter. At present the starter will almost never turn over the bike.

Here is what I know for sure:
Measured at the battery 12.3 V
Measured at the battery terminal post on the starter relay - little to no drop in voltage
Measured at the starter terminal post on the starter relay when pressing the start button - little to no drop in voltage
Measured at the positive lead on the starter when pressing the start button - little to no drop in voltage
I also kick-started the bike and measured greater than 14v at the battery while running, so the charging system is also working (should not be related to the starter issue, but good to know). It might point that the ground circuit from battery or electrical system is good.

If the starter is getting 12v it should work unless the issue is withing the starter / starter gears or ???
The starter worked for a very short period when I got the bike, then a little better than half when the starter gear recall completed.

Once the bike starts (kick starting) it runs fantastic. Any further ideas on what could be the issue.

I have a riding buddy that just picked up a 2012 TE310R, that starts like a charm. What is the issue with the 2013 TE310R or at least mine.

If you can find out if the valves were set to stock spec it might be helpful. The decompressor tends to need a tighter gap to function well (tight end of spec and potentially tighter than spec depending on shim) and someone just using the stock spec may not be aware. This seems to be the quirk with these engines as assembled. I found when the starter would not turn it was also hard to kick. That'a about all I can imagine would cause this beyond the starter gears you already replaced.

if you're measuring 12.3v on a charged battery- your battery is shot.

sounds like your charging system is working though.

Exhaust valve shimmed from stock at 0.008" down to 0.006" as recommended by many.

Not certain if it was exactly 12.3v was not fully charged but does not seem to matter. Same result, will not turn over, just clicks. Have one Li battery and one regular. The regular is on the tender now. Will see if it completely charged and measure again.

Okay, just ran out and did a quick check:

Measured at the battery 13.3.v
Measured at the battery terminal post on the starter relay - 13.3v (no drop with the very short cable from battery to relay)
Measured at the starter terminal post on the starter relay when pressing the start button - 12.79v (hopefully that is a normal drop for running through the starter relay.
Measured at the positive lead on the starter when pressing the start button - 12.79v (no drop with cable from relay to starter terminal
Will see if I can get my buddies 2012 Te310R and check the same points.

I have read on some other forums about the sprag clutch? Could this be an issue? If so how would I know?

what's the battery voltage AFTER you've tried to start it a couple of times (12.79v would be great; <12.6v not so great).

a bad sprag will always be engaged, or maybe barely-to-no engagement. in the first case: you would not be able to kick it unless the ring gear broke; in the second case the starter would have very little load and would possibly spin like crazy. Put the bike in 3rd and rock it back and forth- the sprag may disengage if it's engaged. But I'd guess you don't have a problem.

jump the relay (bike in neutral) with a pair of needle nose for a quick relay test- the starter should take off.

use a car to jump the bike- easier on the battery.

Trenchcoat - battery voltage will does not change much after a few tries. If I am getting 12.79v at the starter post, then the starter is getting proper power - right??? Would jumping the terminals on the relay change anything?

Will try the 3rd gear test, but don't have any of the symptoms you mentioned. The reason I brought up the sprag clutch and possible dis-engagement is that when trying to kick over the bike the odd time the kick starter snaps back pretty good.

Thanks for the feedback. Really want to get this bike going properly.

put a load on the battery. then let it rest. measure the voltage (use actual numbers here). if it's less than 12.6v, get another battery. if you're getting 12.79volts at the starter post (and the starter has a good ground) and it's not spinning, pull the starter assembly and do the test in the manual. however, there is the possibility that you're screwing these tests up because there seems to be some confusion.

jumping the relay takes the relay and any possible losses out of the equation; and it's easy. you can measure full voltage at a test point, but when there's a demand for lotsa amps: nada.

I didn't think you had a problem with the sprag.