2013 Te449 Blew Up? (video!)

Husqy ripper · Apr 9, 2019

Big Timmy said: ↑

You better find that missing bolt or flip the bike on it side and point those access holes that you can see the crank through as the lowest point and start shaking it around to see if anything falls out.
Did you buy this bike used?

I bought the bike used in 2015 off off first owner. No problems til the other day.

Husqy ripper · Apr 9, 2019

Would you maybe suggest just having the dealer pull the flywheel if they have all the tools?

Husqy ripper · Apr 9, 2019

Dealer is close to me. The chick amswered and was like are you the guy from Pittsburgh dual sport fb group? I posted the night before about it haha. I was so surprised I said yes how’d you know? And she explained. She said she thinks they can do it and is having manager call me when he gets in today. She was super nice.

Husqy ripper · Apr 10, 2019

Big Timmy said: ↑

Well then, load it up and go have them remove it for you and ask if you can watch them do it so you can make sure they use the pressure insert cap and if they don't have that cap make sure you mention it don't let them try to pull it without it..

I didn't know there was a FB dual sport group. I'll have to check that page out. Just recently over the past 2 years or so got involved with the FB bike pages. "Old guys who ride dirt bikes", "I love single track" There are 2 - FB BMW G450X owners groups, I'm on both.

There's the Husqvarna 449/511 owners group that Dangermouse AKA "David Bates" from Australia. He is the Admin, he started that page.

If you didn't know already he is the guy who makes and sells the DMD rocker cover breathers for the 449 and also the ones that fit the BMW450 and the same engine in the CCM GP450. I'm also active on that page. Since I have a 2011 TC engine that get swapped back and forth in my G450X chassis.

I'm also on a few other different FB Husky pages since I also ride a highly modified '15 FE 501.etc.

I sort of started out on the forums first. I've been the BMW G450 riders forum Moderator since about 2013.

I can hardly count how many times I've seen the Stator failures like yours. Simply because some owners are not aware of the warnings from the forums to inspect the bolts and replace them before this happens.

Many times by the time someone is looking they are already asking what as already occurred and the damage is done.

We have tried to warn owners to take 15 minutes to get in there and to see if any of them have begin to loosen up on there own, and to replace them with new hardware rather than use new factory screws that come with the gasket kit that likely will have the same issue again later.

If you look at the factory Allen head bolt, take a look at the allen wrench hole in the screw heads, you will see it has a second smaller diameter hole that goes in deeper than the larger hex hole. Well that protrudes deep enough that it causes the shank of the screw to be partially hollow just below the head of the screw.

Which can cause the heads to snap clean off if these inferior bolts from the hollow shank breaking if they had been properly heat treated where they became hard and brittle , but they are fairly soft and just stretch and distort,

Now picture what happens if that Inferior screw is over torqued to 25nm like the service manual tells you to do to when they should really be torqued to 11 to 13nm. It stretches them in that hollow weakened area just under the head and that leads to failure. Either the coil windings get chewed up giving them enough room to back completely out or they can get the heads sheared right off from that metal to metal contact.

Those screws when new also have their own green dry Loctite compound pre applied to the threads. As you already now know, that dry Loctite previously applied from the factory didn't do a very good job of retaining the screws in the threads they were installed in and they backed themselves out.

This is the result of a few things here. Partially from them being inferior in design, possible poor heat treating, over torqued/stretched beyond their yield point during assembly, which causes the bolts heads to not remain seated firmly and the retaining compound wasn't sufficient enough to do the job.

You were right in saying there should have been a class action lawsuit. The BMW and Husky dealers knew about this way back when and they looked the other way. I've seen several owners that did get this issue fixed under warranty but they were lucky.

The Stator problem was a known issue back in late 2010, which kind of really started making the rounds on the BMW G450 forum and Thumper talk. Then here on Café Husky along with the threads on Torque Limiter failures.

These issues both really took off on the Café Husky forum since the production numbers were much higher for the Husky 449/511 than the 2 years of limited production for the BMW G450.

The documentation of the same issues is probably much more so on Café Husky since membership and the quantity of owners is higher.

I've been talking about this on Café Husky for several years.

Keep us posted on the progress of getting it back running.

You are the man! If you need an invite to the group, let me know your name I can invite you. I was just gonna have the dealer do the replacement so I don't have to buy the tools. You seem to be hinting at the fact the dealer will do this wrong a second time as they will be going off of the manual and I should only get the flywheel removed by them. I really had a hard time following your flywheel lockdown method and would most likely need to buy the tool. Would be so much easier to have them replace, as I feel like they know more about these than myself. Not sure what to do now...

Husqy ripper · Apr 10, 2019

If I think the bolt to be in the bottom end after searching and not finding, what should be done? If I cannot shake it out? Should I try to just run it after replacing flywheel and stator and see if it gets shredded, or maybe has already been mutilated? Or should the cases be split to prevent further damage?

Husqy ripper · Apr 10, 2019

Big Timmy said: ↑

Sorry about my overly detailed explanation. I come from a long line of educators and shop instructors. I write welding procedures for the US Govt. and work for The Dept.of Homeland Security as a welding inspector. I am also a FAA licensed Airframe and Powerplant technician. So I have always done all of my own mechanical work.

You can have the dealer reassemble it if you like. I just hate to see someone maybe have to work a few hours time to pay a dealer for an hour of their time when its a pretty simple remove and replace job.

I try to pass on detailed step by step instructions and things to look out for along the way with explanations of why these things failed in the first place, so people learn to do the work confidently themselves.

Simply explained, there is a small hole approx. 3/16" drilled in the cranks left flywheel and there is an access screw in the left side bottom of the case that looks like a drain plug, remove the screw, then slowly turn the engine over until the flywheels small hole is aligned with the cases access hole (you can look right into the hole and see the small cranks hole. Once its lined up, you can insert a proper size threaded metric 2" long set screw with the tip of it ground down to form a stepped tip in the set screws blunt end (takes about 2 minutes with an angle grinder, less time with a bench grinder) that is the size of the hole drilled in the edge of the crank shaft flywheel.

Or you can even use a properly sized pin punch through the cases access into the small hole in the flywheel and it will lock the crank from rotating. Keeping the engine from turning while you are cranking on it makes it a little easier. Since the engine is still in the frame. For what you need to do leave the bike in gear and press down on the brake pedal and the engine won't turn over either.

Once the flywheel is removed and you install the new flywheel, the rest of the job is re-assembled in the reverse order from what you already took apart. You got this.

Also, How is the stator unplugged? I could not locate where the wire leads to. Do I need to take off seat and airbox?

Husqy ripper · Jun 13, 2019

update: Dropped at dealer to remove flywheel just had them replace as well. Ended up needing new battery also. I'm on the third oil change since getting back. First oil change was a nightmare. Pieces of bolts and stator stuck in the screens and on the drain plug magnet. Third oil change almost no shavings and bike still runs good!

Big Timmy · Jun 13, 2019

Good to hear the bike is running good, you are lucky. With that being said, shavings and chunks of bolts coming out of the screens and now they are clean a few oil changes later, you can't complain about that.

Husqy ripper · Jun 17, 2019

Big Timmy said: ↑

Good to hear the bike is running good, you are lucky. With that being said, shavings and chunks of bolts coming out of the screens and now they are clean a few oil changes later, you can't complain about that.

Definitely lucked out for sure. All but two bolts backed out and were mostly all chewed up by something. Don’t want to think about what lol.

shreyas3139 · Jun 17, 2019

Where can I get CDI for TE 510? 2004 model

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