2013 Txc310r Won't E-start Or Kick (yes, I've Searched... A Lot)

I'm not sure if this thread is still in need of answers. But I would start with a TPS reset and 5 min no-throttle adaptation. This cured my bikes hard to start and no-idle-issues. If you need to apply throttle to start this would indicate that the readings from the TPS could be out of whack.

The kill switch has a tendency to have intermittent connectivity problems in the connector before the ECU. I solved this by cutting the wires and re-routing them via another separate connector.

All your problems are very similar to mine and the TPS reset and adaptation cured it. My exhaust valves are around .010" and this is causing the bike to be hard to start when warm as well as the kick starter hitting back sometimes. I'm waiting on new shims to fix this.

Also check your timing and TDC. Very easy to be off by one tooth and very hard to check since Husqvarna couldn't be bothered to include a third marking on the timing chain top sprocket.

Well, this issue still won't die. I've got my AEM wideband hooked up to it and the idle AFRs bounce between 14.7 and 16.6. Changing the throttle position sensor setting does nothing to the idle mixture, but I can dial in the AFRs for the rest of the rpm range pretty well.

Things I've replaced so far:

Piston
replated cylinder
cleaned head /valves
valve springs
injector
fuel filter (changed twice)
fuel pump (brand new as of yesterday)
coolant temp sensor
o-ring kit for throttle body
exhaust gasket
exhaust cam (suspected a decompressor issue)

Things I haven't changed, that might be suspect:

Throttle shaft seals http://ca-cycleworks.com/t-seal.html; not 100% sure these even fit the bike, but they come up as a fit on the website
Fuel Pressure Regulator http://ca-cycleworks.com/fpr35h.html

I've read this thread http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2013-txc-250-starts-cold-stalls-hot-then-wont-start.86961/page-6 about 10 times looking for anything that could help. The only thing I came up with was possibly the throttle shaft seals in the new TB, or maybe the TPS?

Please help me before I light this thing on fire, or do something really stupid like bin the ecu and go Microsquirt...

I've let it idle plenty, but the TPS setting makes no difference to the idle mixure unfortunately. I've played with it while the bike is running and the wideband O2 is hooked up.

I haven't looked at the kill switch wiring, but the fact that it's running lean at idle confirms my earlier suspicions, and tells me the issue is getting enough go juice in.

Being that the valves are so hard to access, I'm going to look for better feeler gauges. I'm pretty sure I've got the valves set right but it's really hard to tell. I bought the whole kit so swapping them is quick.

I think I've finally found my vacuum leak! Right between the intake manifold and cylinder head: