Good info. I've done the same on my bike, except for flipping the capacitor. Grounded everything like you did. The final thing will be the addition of the FMF pipe, and then on to figuring out which way to go with ECU. Power Commander V... or ECU flash.... or who knows. We'll cross that bridge when we get to it.
What does the picture above refer to? I can't make out what this is. A 5mm hex head wrench going through something red and something gray...
The gray is the stock shifter tip and the red is Zipty's Tip. Just needed to post this so I could send this to Tinken so he could see why it does not fit.
Ah, I see. I hope mine fits ok... but if not, I'll do the same as you and let them know. Should be here any day now. We should get together sometime and compare notes and bikes in person. I'm not that far from you.
We ride in the hills off of Scott RD. If I get my suspension back before this weekend we will be riding there. I will let you know if the Guys are going to ride.
We sell two different shifter tips. When ordering the tip, you must specify if you have a 449/511. I sent out a new one to you WLD.
I didn't read the whole thread, but make sure that your trailtech is vibration isolated via rubber mounts or something similar. Hard mounting directly to some of the aftermarket billet cases will shake them to death.
Yeap, my Voyager enclosure has rubber mounts...Fit like a glove with no issues. Have this on my raptor 700 with the same enclosure and tear up Glams and Ocotillo Wells with no issues.
Just got my suspension back from Shock Therapy, went to Glen Helen to see how it handled ....I cant believe how great this bike is, and even with 2004 Yamaha KYB's Front Forks. I had new valving and new spring, moved the forks up in the triple clamps, this bike tracks and turns great, handles the braking bumps, square edge well and the little choppy stuff, it just soaks it up. There is a couple doubles in front of the grandstands and this was my first flight with this bike....Not bad but It feels a bit heavy in the air, but flew with a balanced feeling and the suspension soaked up the landing great. I had my suspension set (for motocross tracks like Glen Helen, and REM). I did adjust the rebound a couple of clicks to slow the rebound down, and a click out to soften the compression. The only issue I have is that the way this bike is geared you have to shift way to much and it does not pull it just drops off. I am thinking about dropping one or two teeth in the back. I didn't ride it hard, it only has 130 miles on it and does not have the full amount of oil I would like to run. ZipTy you guys are great OIL CIRCULATION hhhhhhhmmmmmm....Waiting Patiently Hey guys just a reminder...Rebound is on top and compression is at the bottom of the fork.
Mine came as well. They machined a little more material off. Fits perfectly now. Thanks ZipTy. XF came as well. Things are good.
Turns out you're totally right on that one. That was the best money ever spent. The bike runs amazingly well now, much better than before, and it's not running too lean anymore.
That oil is going in my cars, too. All of them. And so true on the pipe and map3. Wow, amazing bike now.
Okay Guys and Gals this is the next chapter in the WLDRacing 2014 Husky TE511. I just got my Oil Recirculation Kit today and I have taken pics to show you my install. Unpacking Kit comes nicely packaged. Check the contents for all parts. See My pic for parts 2. For this install you will or should: a) Clean your bike well so when you take of you valve cover no dirt falls into your engine b) You will have to remove your air filter to remove the valve cover. Good time to clean your air filter and any wires that have accumulated oil from spewing out of air box. c) You will have to drain your oil to attach this kit. Be sure that this is the first thing you do. Start your engine, get it nice and warm, shut it down, then drain your oil. You will need to remove before uninstall/install: Seat Side panels air box lower and air filter uncouple wires near valve cover Skid plate' Spark Plug Coil (8ml bolt that holds down coil) Removal of Valve cover I used an offset box wrench 8 mil (tough to find but good ole harbor freight has a nice set) Fits perfectly and didn't have to dremel the area were the spark plug coil is bolted down. Once you remove the valve cover ....locate the right front hole this will be were you will drill a 3/4 in hole with the supplied step drill bit. I used a drill press, lined up the hole and slowly drilled through. After drilling the top I flipped the valve cover over and drilled from the bottom. Make sure you get rid of any burrs but do not use a file, there is not much lip so be gentle. Finished Product That was the hard part...Ya know worrying if you are going to destroy your valve cover. HEHE Okay lets put this thing back together. There will be a lot of Magnesium shavings, so make sure you clean the cover front and back well, then blow with an air gun if available. When reattaching the valve cover, clearance is at a minimum so be careful an make sure the gasket is seated in all areas around the valve cover. I added a small bit of Ultra Black px# 82180 by Permatex on the valve cover rubber gasket. Only on the curved portion of the gasket. Be careful there is a gasket that goes around the hole to the spark plug, make sure when you are putting the valve cover back on that this does not fall in your engine. Screw all the valve cover screws in first then screw in the breather..(Follow directions) Attach hose to the breather before you tighten, torque to recommended ft lbs. I have added pics so you can see how I routed the hoses. See the next post.
This is the left side of the bike. You can see how the hose loops around and comes back and attaches to the ZipTy Tank. The hose that attaches to the bottom of the tank is fed through to the left side and attaches where the drain bolt was. You will remove the OEM drain plug and discard or save in you box of OEM stuff. There is a AN fitting in the kit that will replace the drain bolt. The black elbow fitting will be removed when doing oil changes not the AN fitting. It is tuff to get a wrench on the an fitting do what you can, then screw the black elbow fitting and you will be able to tighten, and this will also tighten the AN fitting. When doing oil changes you will only remove the elbow fitting. Remember after you drained your oil, clean your screens and put them back the way you took them out, be careful the screens are different remember which one you took from which hole. Tighten the plugs then you can attach the hose and the elbow fitting to the AN fitting. Remove your oil filter and clean or replace as well. You will have to supply your own zip ties, make sure you zip tie all of the hose ends over the nipples. The breather hose that is attached to the back right area of the engine, routes to the air box will need to be removed and capped with the supplied cap. Zip tie this as well. See diagram for which hose goes to air box. I use 0w40 Mobile One Full Synthetic at 1150 cc and my bike definitely runs smoother and shifts smoother also. No oil out of the air box and no leaks .... I have included some more pics for your viewing pleasure.
You used tie wraps to clamp the new hoses onto the fittings? My kit arrived today as well. On my way to Ocotillo Wells for the weekend so won't get to install until Monday. The directions don't say where the hoses should go but I know there are photos of this here on site. So it would be even better if the directions were a little more specific as to completing the project. That said it appears to be excellent quality. I'll figure it out. Nice job writing up your install.
