2014 TE310 Bad ECU?

Quick comment before I jump back into this thread:

On the keyless huskys ('13-'14 TE310r & 250s, 449/511 use a diff reg) it looks like it's the regulator that controls the DC and Power relays, not the ECU. There's 7 wires connecting to the regulator- including one to the coil side on each relay.

I haven't figured out yet if the 2 & 10-second "lights-on/off delay" is built into the regulator... but I'd guess yes (if I'm right. I've been wrong many times before). That's a lot of unnecessary crap to design into a regulator just to go keyless.

weird.

ps- this also puts a kink in my plan to install a series-regulator someday. sheesh. Also, I'm thinking if your stator or regulator go out: you lose all the lights instantly. Might be "fun" at night; otoh, it's a good tell-tale I suppose. I'm gonna hafta test this theory I think. Hell, you might be able to ride for a day or two just on battery power (remembering to kickstart only)

jxs-
(Jacks?)

right now, here are my suspicions:

• bad coil. (take the plug/coil and hook it to another batt, put +12 and neg on it with plug grounded to the neg... then pull the coil negative wire off the battery. See 1 spark consistently? your coil is probably okay, I'd think. But hell- maybe this test would ruin it. btw, there might be some back emf during this test; it won't kill you.)
• bad pulse coil/stator (I've seen this here a few times)
• sheared rotor key (I've seen this here a few times)
• wiring short (I've seen this here more than a few times)
• bad spark plug (put it in your lawn mower plug cap and pull the cord... should spark all over. occasionally plugs get weird)
• 
• 
• 
• bad ecu (btw, that's a Euro TC250 ECU... no wonder I couldn't find it in Hall's USA database; and I've never heard of a bad ecu... or stick coil actually. Hey, what's your VIN?)

get back to us with details when you can. I will answer your questions/observations from a few posts before in a future post.

Do you have access to the 2014 Workshop Manual?

No. Do you?

Huskynoobee- While there are way less differences than between your '11 TE449 and later ones, there are some changes between the '13 and '14 310 models (mostly very minor): BNG (and why are '14s badged the "110 year anniversary edition"?), black Goldspeed rims- not Excels, updated aluminum fuel outlet, hardened starter gear, possibly TC fork internals, Tires?, final gearing 14-40 (blahh), velocity stack ('13?), oil drain bolt (8mm allen; the 13s may also have had this), wiring changes (a few maybe; color changes?). Seems like I'm missing something... did the '13 have titanium valves- naw, that was the blackheads.

I think- but do not know, that all '14s were built at the end of the summer of 2013.
Johnrg seems to be on top of these details.

But the '13 manual IS officially for the '14 (Husky has done this occasionally- but I betcha KTM didn't want to bother with a new one either).
There is a separate '14 parts manual.

whoops- I wasn't trying to talk down to you... in fact, I agree with 95% of your posts, including #25 above (the main point being that there is no existing 2014 TE310R WSM). But I was trying to point out, more for jxs, that there are differences between the 13 and the 14 (especially small changes in the wiring not shown in the schematics- and I don't know why they were made).

I apologize. LMK (pm?), and I'll delete the post.

I have been using the '13 manual but have found that the wiring is not the same.

My 450 had no spark I went through everything to eventually find it was a bad ECU. (Very long journey too wish I'd thought to do this first)
This was how I diagnosed it:

Pull the ECU off the bike put it in a zip lock freezer bag and store it in the freezer, (I left mine in for 2 days at -1) re installed it in the bike and sure enough it sparked and ran like new right up until it warmed up again.

Bad ECU's are often bad connections like mine was, freezing squeeze's it together and may help you eliminate it if that's the issue.
Worked for me, good luck man.

Just to add too, I have the full work shop manual for the 08 TE and it caused me a lot of headache, time and money in the wrong direction.

The OHM's spec's were insanely off for the coil sending me on global goose chase to get a new one which then tested exactly as the old one did, wiring colors were very often different, stator and pulsar figures once again wrong ! leading me on another chase to Poland for me to send them $200 bucks for no good reason, on and on...
I now use the manual with a pinch of salt, it may have been due to Husky change of hands different country's different specs for my model and year I don't know but it can be hard to believe you cant rely on the factory book.

People seem to always think the ECU "never" goes out but this was my inner feeling for some reason and sure enough.

Just sharing my experience incase it can help...
All the best.

When I bought my 13 TXC 310.

I would ride it and every time I wheelied it. Engine would stall and no spark.

Then out of blue it would start fine, then out of blue, stall and no spark.

It had me baffled. I went through everything.

I took it to Halls since was two weeks old.

We went through it for bout 3 hours. Tried new stator, ecu, coil stick, everything.

No spark. They said to leave bike and started driving home.

They were as baffled as I was.

They called and said they found problem.

In the connector that connects into ECU. One of the wire connectors was not snapped into the main connector that plugs into ECU.

So when you snapped it into Ecu. Wire clip pushed back and didn't connect.

That's why it would spark and then stop sparking, at any slight movement.

Snap off the cover of the major connector to the ecu. Make sure all the wire clips are pushed in and locked.

When they push in they lock. My wire was not locked in the connector from factory. So it would push back. Then when you un connected it. Looking inside main connector. It would creap forward, like it was fine.

Worth a shot!

So if I let the bike sit for ten minutes or so and measure voltage at the connector that inputs to the stick coil, I see repeated voltage spikes, even if I crank it for 10-15 seconds (yeah, I know it's hard on the starter) but as soon as I stop cranking the starter and start again...nothing.

Nothing changed, nothing moved, just stop cranking the starter and crank again.

I checked the wires as recommended above and they are all seated properly.

Am I correct in assuming that the ignition system inside the TE's ECU is a CDI-type system?

Sent the ECU to Hall's for Clint to check. He said that it was a TE310R ECU despite the part #, did have the correct map for an open pipe and works correctly on another bike out there.

What battery is in the bike. LI or Yuasa. If charged it will work as normal but if a failing battery may cause issues. If LI, the cells will read .6 v or so above a LA. Just a thought.

It's a Yuasa, kept on a tender.

I'd see what voltage is after sitting a day. Even though on trickle charge as I do on car and a bike, they will fail and I think threshold may be roughly 11.6-12 after sitting a day or more. I have not noted parasitic drain with a good/new battery so see if it does drop in a day. I would expect erratic running. That said here is a chart of the changes I did to my 310 with Map 3 using a PCV and Autotune at elevations from 6500 to 9k, where I generated this map, and used over 10,000ft up to 14k with no popping on descents, no hot start issues/flooding, either. Note the negative numbers showing the leaning out of Map 3. So if your rideablity issues coincide with the throttle settings shown I do recommend the PCV.

Recommend the Map 3 and PCV it will make a big differance in performance,popping and flame outs

Using the thread to keep track of troubleshooting.

Just tested the pulsar coil output at the pulsar coil-side plug and at the ECU input plug - both show ~2VAC while cranking.

Tested resistance at the pulsar coil-side plug and at the ECU input plug - both show ~150 ohms.

Tested voltage to stick coil plug - nothing except sometimes on first bump of the starter.

Tested resistance between the ECU input plug and stick coil (spark plug) plug - continuity.

Tested resistance between stick coil plug wire #1 and ECU input plug - continuity.

Tested resistance between stick coil plug wire #2 and ground - continuity.

So, this thing is getting pulsar coil voltage to the ECU but no output from the ECU to the stick coil. All wiring checks. I cannot think of anything else it could be besides the ECU, despite my having sent it to Hall's and Clint testing it fine.

your frikken ECU is fine. relax about it; or borrow one to reassure yourself. or see if the dealer has the old one you can borrow. After all, it ran a bike at Hall's.

Just because you have continuity in a length of wire does not mean it's good (it just means it's not bad- there is a difference). inspect the wiring for rubs. thoroughly. just like 6 months ago.

You may have to also have a plug in the head to see consistent sparks (IOW, use 2 spark plugs) but I'm not sure- This would only be true if the ECU also uses the MAP sensor for timing. ground the plug. and buy a new coil instead of an ECU if you wanna buy something on a whim.

I'll say it again: check for a sheared rotor key.

why do you think you have an electrical problem and not, say, a clogged injector or bad fuel pump, filter etc? is it the one spark thing? just for grins, check your FI system: spray pattern, pressure, volume. Of course the issue arose (or got worse) when you took the tank off- which probably means electrical but still could be FI. It also hints that you made it worse somehow (not judging... but it is a clue to use)

get a good, "bottom-shelf" multi-meter to go along with your analog meter. $20-$30. The FREE ones at Harbor Freight are semi-adequate.

your bike cannot "adjust itself" on this open-loop fuel injection system. the O2 sensor is not used AFAIK.

if the bike ran lean, going up to 10,000 feet probably should've made it run better. ...or maybe not, depending on your mapping and manifold absolute pressure sensor

the "fan temp sensor" in the radiator hose is NOT the the Coolant Temperature Sensor in the cylinder, on xlite redheads. But I'm guessing you replaced your CTS (that's good- it's a known associate of weird-ass problems); but if not- replace it now. <$20.

Test your TPS: put an ohm meter between one of the outside leads and the center lead- twist the throttle and see that the resistance goes smoothly up (or down if you used the other lead) and back down again. Then (for grins) measure the outside leads to see that the static resistance is the same as the high reading and doesn't change with the throttle. I don't know the numbers; I'd *guess* 10ohms-2000ohms. you tell me. hell, maybe it's 5K to 20K ohms.