TE/TC 2015 NJ TE300

They don't seem to get her as much in the bullet proof stuff.... by
UT not easy like stock.... I use stock because I really don't crash or plow thru saplings much... I would rather be able to clean them out easy

Re adjusting the sag. Is there a formula for adjusting spring preload per inch. For example, fully ladened rider sag on my bike is 4.5 inches shorter than unlaidened sag with the bike on a stand. Per the manual this should be 3.96 inches. So, if I'm off by 0.5 inches, is there a set mm that I need to adjust the preload out from where it is now?

Normally 1 inch static sag and 4 total sag some saying 4.5 total sag from topped out....

I like about 12mm of preload

What's the rule again? More than 15mm and you should go up in spring weight?

Per the owners manual, rider sag should be 100mm, 3.96 inches. As of right now I'm at 4.5 inches, so my question is how much preload (turns of the shock spring collar or mm of spring preload) do I need to let out?

around 15 to 25....

SMW what row were you on I think I saw you on the new bike I was 20B on a 310.

I was on row 11, it was a pretty good row to be on, we didn't really catch/pass anyone until the points taker in the afternoon, and the trail was broken in just enough to be able to follow it without it being chewed up.

Even in my row I was impressed the course wasn't in bad shape. They had a bad turn out over all which is a shame. i know a lot of people were unhappy with the low speeds but with the Menu system in NJ you get what you get. The pour scoring didn't help either.

What is the menu system?

Mike you'd do better searching the ECEA site but starting around 2012 The pinelands commission put a comprehensive management plan in act that disregards most of the state land used for many years, and put aside by the state for enduro or offroad use. This new menu system is a limited selection of approved land All clubs in the state pick from. That's a mouth full but without getting flying off the handle much of this mileage is dirt roads or fire cuts that are just not usable. They also put speed restrictions depending on the road/area which races get made about like this past Pine Hill. Those low speeds were not decided by the club but rather the land they used.

Anyway the clubs have been working with the AMA and hopefully with everyone working to improve things the state will get the message. The AMA went to the last round of talks and hopefully will add some political weight to the fight.

Little confused here with your wording..."do I need to let out?" Do you mean to "feed in" or "let out"? Letting out to me is releasing the preload, and if you want to reach 3.96 from 4.5, you need to tighten or "feed in" spring pressure. That would be to lower the adjusting collar. As for how many turns? That depends of spring rate mainly, but I would estimate at least 2 full turns to start with.

Anybody manage to shoehorn these guards (80335936144 ) onto their 2014, 2015 TE300? Got a good price on them, just checking reviews before I say order them up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HUS...OR-PROTECTION-80335936144-HUSKY-/291308069036

I've got them on mine (TE 250) and a buddy has them on his TE 125. Both '15 models. They work well. On one of the bikes we had to add a washer under the back fender bolts to gain clearance to keep the fender from rubbing the guard. No issues on my 250 with clearance.

May give it a try then. I have the Husky fan kit (not the one with the LCD display), any idea if this kit will interfere with the fan kit?

I think that it would be fine. These guards don't "surround" the radiator. They mount in front of the radiator so it should not interfere with the fan kit. Take a close look at my picture in the show us your two stroke picture and you will see what I'm talking about.

Bike update. I just finished the first rock run in PA and will be sending out the suspension for the revalve. These forks in stock configuration do NOT work in the rocks, no matter the clicker adjustments made. When trying to soften the compression to handle the rocky chop, the forks blow throw the stroke and you end up with diving any time you touch the brakes.

Let me know who you go with. Also struggling with mine badly in stock form. Lack of confidence is making me ride tight.

Welp, I received the revalve back from FC. It was a step in the right direction, less harsh and more predictable, but not quite at the level of plushness I'm looking for. FC offered to take them back for additional work and paid for shipping both ways. The consensus was the forks were still riding too low, the plan is to go up a spring rate and valve lighter which should provide a more progressive feel. Although I'm not really pleased with having to pull off the forks and send back, I am pleased with the customer service and general desire to get the settings right.

Side note, there is a really good thread on KTM talk in the suspension forum on solving for the 4cs ills. For anyone mechanically inclined, it reads like replacing base valves and pistons with off the shelf parts from race tech, and drilling a bleed hole solve for alot of issues.

http://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?508914-4cs-fork-answers