TE/TC 2015 te300 jetting recommendations

if you are run the dolly screw flush next time you are out turn in 1.5 turns in from flush and then see if you gain more low end power my bet you will

Been picking away at jetting the last month on and off and still could not get it to work like I wanted. So.....installed the Slavens Racing S3 head with black insert (0-5000') elevation and it got some mid-top back. Reclipped N8RG from 2nd to 3rd and got better still. Not pumped on the setup yet but at least its closer. Current is N8RG (3), 38PJ, 172MJ, AS1.5 out, yellow spring dolly flush. When I replaced the stock head with the S3 I noticed that X was wayyy off, although I didn't measure it. My next step is to correct to 0'ish and try that. Happy with crawling and low end grunt but want more mid out of this thing.

So I know this thread has been quiet for a little while, but for those of you who have finally sorted out your jetting for the 2015 TE300, what kind of range are you getting out of a full tank of gas?

I've checked and adjusted the float level in the carb (no guarantees that it's right though...), and jetted similar to many of you in this thread. In my weekly rips on our 650 acre island, I'm hitting reserve around mile 30, and only getting maybe 8 more miles after that before running dry. Shouldn't I be getting better than 50 miles overall?

On my previous bike, a 2003 CRF450R, I could get almost 60 miles out of only 2 gallons. Any ideas?

I'm in the process of getting the jetting sorted on my 2016 300, and last time I went out, I did 35 miles, then put about 5 Litres back in to top it back up. So based on that, I 'should' get more than 70 miles per tank. My 'jetting chart' settings were way too rich, and fuel consumption horrendous - about 40 miles to empty. See my 2016 jetting thread for where I have got to so far......

I can easily ride 60 miles of single track before getting nervous.

I did 8 lap of 7.8 miles and still had a little bit of gas... I run mine on reserve because if you run out in a high throttle condition it could be bad.... So I did 63 miles and feel comfortable with close to 70... These were race miles

Thanks guys.

Tetley, I'll check your thread.

Ok I am going to go out on a limb and see if my new 2016 TE 300 will run great at all locations with all stock setting on the original carb.
Just like my Italians Husky did I have yet to own a Husky that needed any carb work I run as delivered from sea level to 8,000 feet from about 30 degrees to 110 degrees with zero problems So I so hope my luck continues I will once again run straight race gas 110 Leaded with Lucas oil at about 35 to 1 Will see this weekend

It would be interesting if it did run properly on stock settings, mine certainly didn't - incidentally, there is not really any such thing as stock settings, but there is 'jetting chart' settings as the bikes come with 2 pilots, 2 needles and 3 mains, and in th UK a homologated needle and main for road use.
It seems most of the KTM engined 250's and 300's need work on the jetting to get them perfect.

When I say stock I meen they way I purchased the bike from the dealer. My 2006 CR 125 I never touched it. Then my 2008 CR 125 same think. Even when walt made it a 165 used the same carb and never touched it. Then I purchased a used 2006 Wr 250 the owner had said he had changed the jetting it ran great everywhere. I then purchased the Pro circuit Zip Ty Racing 2 stroke national race bike BUT the race motor was returned to stock except for CR electronics
It had a tricked out Kiehien Carb that was set up for the race motor and I did not want to mess with jetting it. So I took the carb off the 2006 WR 250 and installed it on the 2010 300. Bingo it ran perfect. So I then purchased another stock 2006 WR 250 stock carb and jetted it like the other 250 and once again Bingo ran great. Now the 125 and 165 have been sold to Wald Smith the Wr 250 was sold to Huskynobee and I still have the 300. I have yet to head if any one I sold the bikes to has changed the settings. So I talked to a few guys who are racing the new 300 and they tell me they are having luck with just a few changes hope I have the same results.

Mine we went from the Lafferty suggested back to straight off the Jetting chart in the book

OK So once again I am the odd one out here Saturday I picked up a 2016 TE 300 from Richardo at 3 Brothers in Costa Mesa calif .

I took it as delivered I added Race Gas and Lucas 2 stroke oil at about 35 to 1 The bike starts perfect runs well and after about 40 miles the pipe looked clean. I did not touch a thing or adjust a thing As for the map switch really did not make much difference in the one or two spot I still do not know which setting is the race mode. Anyway as for the motor at this time I see no reason to do anything AS FOR THE SUSPENTION
WE GOT SOME WORK BUT I SEE MORE POTENTIAL IN THIS BIKE THEN MY ITALIAN BIKE WHICH IS AS DIAL IN AS CAN BE
Zip Ty Racing here I come

Since the OP started this thread for jetting a 2015 TE300, thought I'd bring mine into the conversation for any advice on the exact same subject instead starting another thread. Hope that is ok.

For the first time since '74, I am back on a 2T.

Researched everything I can find and have spent hours reviewing member posts both here and on Thumper Talk. Since I've been on 4T's forever and spent considerable time reviewing threads, thought I'd get the "counsel of many" here with my specific readings. It's become apparent to me that while the motors may be exactly the same according to Slaven and others in this space, it's equally telling that the Huskies and the KTM's both seem to have something different as the direct comparisons I'm reading are indicating very different jetting coming out of the exact same dealers of the two lines. Don't know if it is porting, reeds, ignition curve or what, but case in point (albeit different years) my KTM and my Husky are very different in my readings of the plugs when they had the same jetting. Anyway, here's what I've got:

Backdrop: '15 TE300, ODO = 74.4mi, HRS = 5:17, Temps = 50*F, 60:1 Motorex Full Syn/Low Smoke,

Plug on right(top) NGK BR7EIX Iridium:
PJ = 35,
IJ = 1 3/4 turns out,
Needle = Suzuki P/N 13383-37FEO a.k.a. NECJ
Needle Position #3 from top,
Main Jet = 172,
Slide = OEM - Don't know how to tell what slide
Carb = OEM - Don't know how to tell size
Silencer - OEM non-spark arrested
Elevation = 800'
Humidity = 68%
Compression 160 psi
Variables = Wasn't able to do a throttle chop as I was accomodating limited daylight and other riders ready to roll - plug represents a day of riding techical single track. Bike seemed to need to clear its throat after a long single track lugging when I would get into it where the trail opened up and I could get it into third and wring it out a little.
Neutral/Idle to WOT throttle twist = ever so slight a stumble



Plug on left(bottom) NGK BR7ES (not Iridium)
PJ = 38
IJ = 1 1/8 turns out
Needle = Suzuki P/N 13383-37FEO a.k.a. NECJ
Needle Position #3 from top
Main Jet = 170
Slide = OEM - Don't know how to tell what slide
Carb = OEM - Don't know how to tell size
Silencer - FMF TUrbine II spark arrested
Elevation = 800'
Humidity = 60-%
Compression 160 psi
Variables = Warmed up the bike around the neighborhood, then pulled a wide open 3rd gear pull, hit the kill button/pulled clutch same time
Neutral/Idle to WOT throttle twist = no stumble

In the interest of minimal time to ride and test as well as trying to take advantage of good weather, I broke the rule of making more than one change at a time knowing that I am at least in the right zip code to begin with. My real question for those who know this stuff well is this: Am I too lean on the main jet given the throttle chop result on the plug on the left. I really fear a too lean WOT although I am not there very often at all being a tight single track technical rider, but when I am there, I want to know I can stay there if I want.

Thanks in advance for your input!

Captain Kirk, I'm sea level to maybe 1500ft.

I have exact same settings as the bottom plug on a 2015 EXC 300 with exception of a FMF gnarley and stock silencer. Plug looks very similar (a tiny bit darker after hours of use), bike runs like it is electric, likes a burst of choke to start cold which tells me I'm somewhere near good on the bottom. Absolutely no clearly out after lugging just revs straight to the pipe which is a big change from the factory needles. My 4T buddies on 450s can't believe how smooth and economical and powerful it is. Changes from 35 -> 38 pilot made very difference other from the AS position so I went one safer with the 38. I am usually putting less fuel in at stops then they are as well. I've been told to go a 165 main which I would have tried if I had one, but it will be staying as is cause it is just so nice to ride. BTW Motorex 60:1. Although the magazines say there is something different between the KTM and Husky engines you can never know what was in the carbs for the test bikes. All I can say is the 2 TE300 I've ridden with N8RG needles stock felt just like my bike with the same setup. Pity it would only go around the block twice on a tank of fuel.